Put the ball in the palm of your hand,pour enough powder over the ball to just cover it.
That's your starting load.
Crude but it works.
Put the ball in the palm of your hand,pour enough powder over the ball to just cover it.
That's your starting load.
Crude but it works.
"Sixty percent of the time,it works every time"
Norsk is right that is a good go to with an unmetered powder flask round balls seem to need more powder than an equivalent weight bullet does. I use 80 grains of 2f in the muzzle loader, and in a single shot shotgun 22 grains of red dot smokeless as I've got a big tin of it and it needs to go somewhere.
No No No covering the ball IS ONLY FOR BLACK POWDER NEVER SMOKELESS.
Red dot is faster than ap 70 and looking in my books ap 70n matches unique. My old notes show 26 gr of unique was a load I used with 1 1/4 Oz of shot. A 12 gauge ball weight is about the same but use with caution.
A round ball generally produces lower pressures than a shot charge of similar weight due to the reduced bearing surface and reduced friction,
You are being obtuse.
If you seriously thought you could substitute Smokeless to Black powder in equal quantities, then I question your suitability to own firearms in general.
I have given you some practical information on this thread that I myself have used.If you don't like the way it was delivered,stop asking or place me on ignore.
"Sixty percent of the time,it works every time"
go back and read #2 ........equal volume BP and lead shot.......
With apologies for hijacking thread...but those with relevant knowledge seem to be gathered...are there any reasons why not to use CBC brass hulls with modern smokeless powders in current shotguns? I have a qty of used ones that came from a black powder guy, for both 12 gauge and 410 bore. Also fibre wads, overshot cards and a couple of antique roll crimpers. Latter were prob made for paper hulls I imagine. However, like OP above, I would be reluctant to crimp my brass in the interests of longevity. Overshot cards with glue or varnish would be my preference. Comments? Shotguns in both 12 and 410 are single barrel break action and pretty rugged.
They will be fine.
Brass is a lot stronger than Plastic
"Sixty percent of the time,it works every time"
Not wanting to argue with you, however, all of my reading/research forever, and I have done a bit, is that the correct references are 12 gauge, 10 gauge, 20 gauge etc, but .410 Bore is the correct nomenclature for that particular calibre in a shotgun.
for example - https://smallboreshotgun.com/about/4...d-development/
It's 63 gauge. However i dont think many gun shops would know what you meant if you asked for a box of them.
look up @Wingmans thread on everlasting .410 shells
and MANY modern .12ga arent really .12ga anymore as they are overbored so closer to what was traditionally a .10ga
but correct they still fire same shells just have little if any forcing cone so pattern nicely and have lower pressure.......you can do same thing if making .410 insert for your larger shotgun....use same drill bit right through...its VERY close to 1/2" pipe diameter...but we wont go into how I know this or will be called redneck AGAIN....
Per the link above, the use of "bore" is a English/European tradition, "Gauge" being the more common American usage where 410 bore is often referred to as 410 Gauge by the uninitiated lol
its not a decimal point...its a bit of #12 lead shot that just rolled there.......seem to have lots of them around the place.....lol.......
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