Thread: Rounds jamming into lands

I would be full length sizing anything remaining, making sure they all chamber then loading them with primers, powder and projectile.

If you want to check chambering after that perhaps remove firing pin assembly if you know how better to be safe than a loud and somewhat unexpected noise

well it DEFINATELY ISNT projectiles hitting rifling looking at that one.

but last photo....... hmm someone else have idea????

That vivid I used last made the bugger rather hard to eject

so its tighter than a nuns nasty...maybe just maybe you need to bump die in tiny bit more...if the thickness of vivid ink is enough to make chambering hard???? tiny amount of blood on case would be thicker,fluff in chamber and no way will it close.

Cycled some unloaded brass that's been resized from the same batch and there was a wee bit of resistance in some of them

You're tight on the shoulder and need to FL size.
As per my previous post and Mikees post measure headspace and resize all just enough to chamber easily.

Lots of wipeing of marker off of projectile presumably from feeding from mag.....but to be safe I would give it a good clean with a carbon remover and give the throat a scrub.

Fairly confident this is a sizing issue tho rather than a jamming in the lands issue going on the evidence provided.

So would the head space gauge be the best bet to figure out the bomb size problem? I'm ordering one for another caliber so might aswell grab another

Originally Posted by kayneb

So would the head space gauge be the best bet to figure out the bomb size problem? I'm ordering one for another caliber so might aswell grab another

If thats the way you want to go but it is essentially the same tool as the cbto one ....if you have a bushing that will hit somewhere near the middle of the shoulder just use that is what I do.
The actual number you get is irrelevant so long as it is consistant and you can bump the shoulder 2-3thou.

how are you setting up your sizing die????
if neck sizing...maybe you should F/L instead...PERSONALLY I never just neck size....reason for this,my old rifle seemed to have off centre bore and large chamber and HATED chambering neck sized rounds....so I partial length resized from there onwards..and have just kept doing so.
I found a factory round that fitted well,and shot well...so set up my die using that factory round....
for ME having rounds chamber quickly and easily is paramount......having lost a red hind with mate using a 7x57 that had reloaded neck sized rounds started that as we couldnt get bolt shut no matter how hard we tried...funny as heck looking back...big red gal stood there laughing at us....

I got caught out with neck sizing, loaded up a heap and they wouldn't chamber. Haven't neck sized since.

Saw a guy use another piece of brass to measure the shoulder bump, slipped it over the top zeroed his calipers and proceeded to bump until he got his 2 thou. Obviously it has to be something bigger than you're loading

Usually screw the neck die down until it just touched the shell holder. Should I potentially be backing it off more?

Originally Posted by kayneb

Usually screw the neck die down until it just touched the shell holder. Should I potentially be backing it off more?

Possibly....depending on the die and your holder vs your chamber you are loading for what can happen is the die if set too low trys to push the neck part of the shoulder down.....with the rest of the case unsupported by the die and the shoulder being tapered it pushes the shoulder/case junction outward and you get tight chambering and extraction.
Regardless you now need to FL size.
Unless you have an abnormaly large chamber or are loading for Multiple rifles in the same chambering I would set up a Fl die as described above and use it every reloading.

Get rid of the neck die and use a F/L die. Set it according to the instructions in your loading manual ie screw it down on the shell holder, lower the shell holder and turn it another 1/8 turn. Lock it up. Then do some loads and see if you get a different result.

your issue ISNT the neck..or projectile...its more than likely the body of brass itself/shoulder...bump it back more and issue will simply go away...as will tight chambering.....in effect you trying to park a station wagon into a parking space just big enough...try it in mini and its really easy....try it in slightly smaller station wagon and happy medium is found.

partial length resize...sizes MOST of neck and some of case...it bumps case back a little..but not all the way true F/L does...its a bit of both sizing methods...if you dont screw die in enough you can sometimes see ring on neck where its down to...really shows up on 7.62x39mm if using 308 projectiles and sizing button..sort of a mini double shoulder... extreme eg to describe what I mean.