Thread: Sticky bolt?

Greetings again Kiwijames,
I very much doubt if the problem is purely case related. It is more likely to be a combination of things perhaps a rifle/loading problem. It is hard to diagnose when the patient is not present and I see that we both live in Hawkes Bay. If you feel like having a look at the problem with me send me a PM. We might both learn some thing.
Grandpamac.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

whats with the 3 crimp marks around primer???
we has shitty issues with S&B brass ...it was so plurry hard resizing nearly took handle off press,any other brand is fine....really surprised you would have issues with lapua brass...its supposed to be the good shit is it not???? be a shame to chuck good brass if its not the issue.

Military brass has the primer crimped in

so its military lapua brass???
a quick twirl with champher tool removes it nicely and helps primer slip in well too.

That brass case head and the primer look very rough to me. Is the inside of the chamber completely free of rust or other crud? If its rough all sorts of bad shit can happen , including jammed case.

Have a look inside your chamber, could be some crud in there that the case is expanding into and locking things up.

Originally Posted by kiwijames

2208 is just too bulky to make the 308 overloaded.

Not correct- can easily be done esp with a combo of high neck tension/ fouling/ heavy brass/ hot primers/...

2208 is in fact an ideal powder for 150 class projectiles in a .308- ask any fullbore shooter

Originally Posted by 6x47

Not correct- can easily be done esp with a combo of high neck tension/ fouling/ heavy brass/ hot primers/...

2208 is in fact an ideal powder for 150 class projectiles in a .308- ask any fullbore shooter

I'd agree with this 100%. There are many loads out there that are way over normal limits. I often run the loads people on here "mention" on Quickload and while there are a lot of variables in the estimates it gives, its a great tool.

Recently I was in the LGS and he hand me a Tikka T3 action. It had enormous setback on the locking lugs, something like 8 thou as I recall (so much its a wonder it was still firing). I'm no fan of Tikka's bu they are very strong actions . . . . for one to have that much setback it must have been operating at truly horrific pressures. The thought occurred to me looking at this action was "how the hell did the brass stand the pressure without a failure".

I'd say brass is very much better than it was 10 or 20 years ago and reloads of 70,000 psi are not uncommon - they go ok in modern rifles in good condition but its a game of chance.

The SAAMI max pressure for 308 is 62,000 psi. You don't give the barrel length of your Forbes but to get 2750 from an 18" barrel with a 150 in a 308 and 2208 you'll be running at 65,000 psi - not way outside the limit but getting close to "tolerance" if there is something not normal with your rifle or brass etc.

Originally Posted by 6x47

Not correct- can easily be done esp with a combo of high neck tension/ fouling/ heavy brass/ hot primers/...

2208 is in fact an ideal powder for 150 class projectiles in a .308- ask any fullbore shooter

Or you can try plugging the barrel with dirt too if you really want to be silly, ask any halfwit.
I have 0.003" neck tension, low fouling and standard CCI BR2 primers in Lapua ex military brass.

My charge is 46.0g 2208.
Hogdons has 47.0C g Varget only reaching 50K CUP. I'm not totally discounting it but it is also not going to be on my most likely list.
My reloading is quite consistent so I will also discount error as a probable cause.
The fact that it is an inconsistent problem has me scratching my head. Most scenarios offered should be more repeatable.
I have inspected both the bolt and the chamber. Neither appear to have blemishes or other errors that stand out.

ok dumb question here...you MIGHT have answered your own query.... lapua MILSERP BRASS.....now correct me if Im wrong but isnt milserp brass thicker with less internal capacity so loads should be reduced a little???? or do the military use civi lapua brass to civi specs??

Lapua ex military brass can be absolute crap, not the same as the brass you buy to reload with

It is designed to be fired once, anything else is a bonus

Have you weighed any & compared it to normal Lapua 308 brass ?

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

ok dumb question here...you MIGHT have answered your own query.... lapua MILSERP BRASS.....now correct me if Im wrong but isnt milserp brass thicker with less internal capacity so loads should be reduced a little???? or do the military use civi lapua brass to civi specs??

I can't say to be certain. @Tentman certainly has me thinking though. I wasn't expecting to be that close to max. The cases are only just compressed with my load which corresponds to listed data suggesting the WC is not that far from normal.

Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg

Lapua ex military brass can be absolute crap, not the same as the brass you buy to reload with

It is designed to be fired once, anything else is a bonus

Have you weighed any & compared it to normal Lapua 308 brass ?

I think a start from new is a good place to start. I'm going to run CFE223 in the next trial. Any suggestions on brass? It's a hunting rifle so I do throw a bit into the grass/Manuka/random scrub that can't be recovered so less than premium brass may be the next choice.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

ok dumb question here...you MIGHT have answered your own query.... lapua MILSERP BRASS.....now correct me if Im wrong but isnt milserp brass thicker with less internal capacity so loads should be reduced a little???? or do the military use civi lapua brass to civi specs??

This too - again easy to model on Quickload, if you care to measure a empty case, then one filled with water (level to case mouth, knock of any meniscus) I'll run it for you (barrel length required too) You could also compare the result with "other brass".

I'd agree that 46.0 gns of 2208 shouldn't be giving you problems, in "standard brass" its indicated at 61848 psi (just be aware CUP are not the same as psi) for 2724 fps at 18" of barrel.

I know all older manuals have a warning about this... Kiwi Greg seems to have knowledge of the stuff in question....might be time for new brass. hopefully its the end of your issues.

Originally Posted by kiwijames

I think a start from new is a good place to start. I'm going to run CFE223 in the next trial. Any suggestions on brass? It's a hunting rifle so I do throw a bit into the grass/Manuka/random scrub that can't be recovered so less than premium brass may be the next choice.

Lapua 308 brass is generally pretty well priced compared to others