Thread: Trouble seating primer into pocket

You won't be able to shoot them out as you won't be able to close the bolt, unless you intend to prime them with bolt before shooting.

Just carefully deprime with your sizing die.
This is a fairly common problem with, new brass and is actually a good thing in away as better tight than loose.

Probably all primer pocket needs is a little chamfer, and pocket uniform on it from likes of a Lyman tool. The yellow/bronze one where you can change head out to what you are doing.

All different brass brands/primers are not exactly the same as you are talking small clearances so will find they all seat different.

Greetings Synthetic,
The RCBS swage tool is designed for removing the primer crimp on military cases. I used a borrowed one years ago and it did a reasonable job but I don't think this is your problem. If the pockets are just too tight, narrow or shallow then the primer pocket uniformer will be needed. if it is just a sharper than normal corner from head to the pocket a reamer or uniformer should do the trick. There is however one more possibility. With some priming arms the punch is threaded into the body of the arm, My old Lyman press wasn't but my current Redding press is. You may want to check that the face of the punch is above the floor of the shell holder or adjust if needed. Lastly in spite of reaming my ex military cases some are still a bit sticky when priming so a little waggle of the case as the primer starts seems to help rather than brute force. I use a Lee hand primer so this is easier. Hope this helps.
Regards Grandpamac.

Take vernier (all handloaders have a vernier don't they) and measure depth of primer pocket. LRP pockets run around 130 thou depending on brass brand. Measure primer thickness. There is quite a variation between brands although in most cases the cups are the same just the anvil protrudes more on some brands.

Check bottom of primer pocket. Some are poorly formed and have a radius rather than sharp cut in the bottoms.
Buy a primer pocket uniformer. They usually cut just under SAAMI at 131 to 132 thou depending upon brand. They will true up all your brass to the same dimension and square up the bottom of the pocket.

Don't buy a swager. You'll be wasting your money on this occassion. They are more suited for restoring brass that has had expanded pockets after several firings at near max load.

New brass can be an arse the first time it is loaded both in seating primers and projectiles. You just need to do a bit of brass prep.

Buy better quality brass.

Originally Posted by Synthetic

Is this the tool you're talking about?
https://www.reloaders.co.nz/shop/Rel...ench+Tool.html

Nope, but i dont see why it wouldnt work.

My un's this 'un

Originally Posted by Max Headroom

Nope, but i dont see why it wouldnt work.

My un's this 'unAttachment 126895

Why would you launch into using that tool if you haven't done some basic measurements to understand the nature of the problem?

Originally Posted by zimmer

Why would you launch into using that tool if you haven't done some basic measurements to understand the nature of the problem?

Fair point. My understanding of swaging is that it trues up primer pockets regardless of dimension, ie cold forging the brass back to spec.
This is given that they're too tight/ distorted, not too loose.

I'd say that what you've posted above should be his first stop, before/instead of doing as I have suggested.

Just get the multi tool from Lyman.... covers a host of reloading jobs and a pretty fair price



Punch the primers carefully as stated, dont try and shoot them off.

Try some other primers

Is you primer cup on the press buggered?/ broken?

No such thing as stupid question when it comes to reloading, we have all learned from experience.

poor some oil into the case and soak for a day to kill the primer prior to punching them or throwing them out

Maybe you should take the brass back, it's most likely a quality control issue so they would like to know so they can remedy the problem so it don't happen in the future. You should also get a refund.

Originally Posted by Mooseman

Maybe you should take the brass back, it's most likely a quality control issue so they would like to know so they can remedy the problem so it don't happen in the future. You should also get a refund.

+1 if you buy new brass should be no reason to have these problems as long as your reloading gear and method is up to scratch.