@Bill999 If they touch the lands do they still tumble? If poss show us a photo of the projectile and give us the dimensions.
Take weight out of the back.
It like a mortar. They don’t fly backwards
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The twist calculator on the Berger website is very good from memory
More meplat, more better.
Try the 170g ones from shooter nz,i use 8.5g trail boss and they shoot an inch @ 50m thru my sako A7,I find they feed better than the 151g ones as they are a longer bullet and pointed profile not flat nose.
And pays not to jam them in the lands as you will sometimes end up pulling the projectile from the case and filling the action with powder if you try and eject the unfired round,,I know from experience..
My sub guns action is Stained with the lube that comes with the projectiles so I think there is plenty of lube
The bullets measure 0.984inches
Am I right to think a gas check is a recessed ring at the base of the projectile filled with lube? As there's two of those and one more above that's not lubed
If I replace 1.5 inches with .984 it gives me 144 which I imagine is 14.4 inch twist
One gun is 1/10 and the other is 1/11 both seem to keyhole around a third of shots
I'm not having this issue with 165gr ballistic tips at around 1050fps
The only lead bullet Iv recovered so far was too damaged to tell if it's taking the rifling or pushing past it
If I seat them out they won't mag feed into the barrel with the flat face at all
If they won't mag feed I'm going to change projectiles regardless of accuracy as it won't work for the follow up shots which I sometimes need due to such low expansion/terminal effect
So Iv limited myself to brain shots this far with ballistic tips which works great because the load is accurate
But they are too hard to expand at subsonic speed so it more like poking with a knitting needle
No a gas check goes on the bottom of the projectile to protect the lead base from the propellant gases, mainly used for supersonic
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_check
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@Bill999 thanks for the photos the bullet looks to be a flat base and the two red rings are lube. The third groove is a crimp groove and shouldnt be lubed. A gas check is a little copper cup crimped onto the bullets base there should be a recess to allow this.
The recovered bullet shows one rifling groove that looks to extend up to the mushroom.
The bullet is what is called a bore rider where the nose of the bullet is just land diameter with the grease grooves being slightly over groove so for a 308, the nose is usually 300 to 303 with the lube grooves being 309-310.
At that length they should stableise in a 10 twist but I have found that some rifles are quite picky about what they eat with cast bullets. The expansion looks normal for a lead bullet made from hard alloy.
I suggest you have chat with shooter nz about other cast bullets. I run a 170 grain round nose ungas checked in my 3030 and 308 over 10 grains of blue dot if thats any help. Flat nosed bullets feed fine in the 3030 as thats what the design is for but you need an ogive to run the bullet up with most box mag rifles.
Hi Bill999, You got those 200 grain flat points off me, In theory they should be stabilised with a 1:13" twist at 1050fps, I have two .308s one shoots them the other won't
it's just one of the mysteries of shooting, I have a new mould for .30 cal casts a 200 grain HP PM your address and I will send you 50 to try no cost.
With cast projectiles the first lesson that needs to be learnt is that " Forget what you already know and work from there " .
For subs soft lead is all you need . You don't need gaschecks and soft lead will " fill " the bore better .
Generally projectiles should be bore size to .003 thou bigger . I get good results at .002 thou .
Projectiles should be up close and personal with the lands . And carry a break down cleaning rod .
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