Thread: What components do I need?

Yea federal bluebox dont set the bar to high on quality. You've got the gear reload to the rifle

Ive never used federal brass, mostly because its quality and the amount of preparation its said is needed to clean it up outweigh the savings IMHO.

If its just hunting at short ranges I'd even suggest barnual steel cased, its hard to load for less than that price (87cents each).

Speaking of barnaul they do projectiles, very cheaply, 24cents for 140gr sp....worth trying 100 IMHO.

In saying this when a mate got a 6.5tikka and with fed ammo it cloverleafed at 100m....I was very impressed for out of the box(es)...brand new.

I use Federal 210 primers at the moment, mostly because choices are limited, match grade are hard to get and twice the price.

ADI 2208 and ADI 2206H seem popular for a 308...mild loads...what ever the safe min load is start there and load 5, load 5 0.5gr higher and another 5 0.5gr higher again. Go shoot them see how those do, watch for quished primers or other stress. If the heavier loads are getting better try higher.

I would certainly try both 2208 and 2206H most target shooters use one or other of these.

I would be interested in what load you find, most ppl I talk to find a similar load works.

btw an ADI reloading manual is $8 and the Lee Manual about $35...I use these 2.

Wear safety glasses, have fun!!!

With the 150 interlock id put money on you ending up at 46-47gr 2208 at any reasonable seating depth and being very happy.

Ok so went shopping this morning. Picked up a bottle/tub of AR2208, some CCI BR2 primers (not much choice) and Nosler Accubond 165gr projectiles (150gr seem to be thin on the ground also).

Will do some reading and find some starting points.

Should probably also look into getting a chrono, as I will need it when I start loading for my in-progress rifle and it will certainly be useful for this.

Interbonds are a fairly tough projectile. May I suggest you load them fairly fast if you can so they dont pencil clean thru the animal and have it run off,
All orther things being equal, the tougher the projectile the faster you can run them and the 165 interbond is probabaly mor appropriate for the faster speeds of the 300wm.
the other thing is, to aim for heavy bone. Well forward on the front shoulder or spine shots will work well with that type of projectile.
greg

Originally Posted by AzumitH

Ok so went shopping this morning. Picked up a bottle/tub of AR2208, some CCI BR2 primers (not much choice) and Nosler Accubond 165gr projectiles (150gr seem to be thin on the ground also).

Will do some reading and find some starting points.

Should probably also look into getting a chrono, as I will need it when I start loading for my in-progress rifle and it will certainly be useful for this.

Hey mate put your name on the North Island chrony list and you will have one at your disposal fairly soon as there is one guy after me at this point.Good luck.

Originally Posted by AzumitH

Thanks for your thoughts.

The only reason I was hoping for similar ballistics was so I could shoot factory or reloaded ammo with the same zero, but I'm starting to think it may be better just to focus on doing the best reloaded rounds I can, even if they shoot differently.

Yeah, I thought when you said "you're new to reloading", that you don't really want to replicate factory ammo! With my Remington 5R in .300 Win Mag, I can get my groups down from 3-1/2" at 100m (Factory Ammo) to 1-1/2" at 100m (handloads), so that tightens them up considerably! plus I'm gaining 200fps over factory!

Originally Posted by longrange308

a dont think you will match the round but 2208 would be a good start, easy to get
any reason you want soft points? lots of better projos around

Better than soft points in what way, are you talking about FMJ as all sporting rounds are soft points. You have soft points with plastic tips otherwise known as crap projectiles, hollow points are also fitted with plastic tips and are not much better as they are sharp and make holes in the pocket of your shorts. There is also the lead tipped soft points which are probably the most effective for New Zealand hunting.

The mono metal projectiles are only better for the manufacturer as they have the opportunity to take money off the losers they convince that they are better. The old marketing adage of "if you can't blind them with science just baffle them with bullshit" applies in this case. These are all about perceived value, nothing to do with performance. Just making money off suckers you can hoodwink. I know because this is what I do for a job. Convincing suckers to shell out more money than they need to by convincing them they are getting an imaginary benefit. We laugh every time we take these idiots for a ride and count the money going in our pockets.

That is the unfortunate truth with our modern economic system but it works and gives me the money to spend on hunting.

will remember not to buy furniture form you

Originally Posted by 260hunter

Better than soft points in what way, are you talking about FMJ as all sporting rounds are soft points. You have soft points with plastic tips otherwise known as crap projectiles, hollow points are also fitted with plastic tips and are not much better as they are sharp and make holes in the pocket of your shorts. There is also the lead tipped soft points which are probably the most effective for New Zealand hunting.

The mono metal projectiles are only better for the manufacturer as they have the opportunity to take money off the losers they convince that they are better. The old marketing adage of "if you can't blind them with science just baffle them with bullshit" applies in this case. These are all about perceived value, nothing to do with performance. Just making money off suckers you can hoodwink. I know because this is what I do for a job. Convincing suckers to shell out more money than they need to by convincing them they are getting an imaginary benefit. We laugh every time we take these idiots for a ride and count the money going in our pockets.

That is the unfortunate truth with our modern economic system but it works and gives me the money to spend on hunting.

Wow so you tried say an amax against a core lock?
And found no difference at all???

Originally Posted by 260hunter

Better than soft points in what way, are you talking about FMJ as all sporting rounds are soft points. You have soft points with plastic tips otherwise known as crap projectiles, hollow points are also fitted with plastic tips and are not much better as they are sharp and make holes in the pocket of your shorts. There is also the lead tipped soft points which are probably the most effective for New Zealand hunting.

The mono metal projectiles are only better for the manufacturer as they have the opportunity to take money off the losers they convince that they are better. The old marketing adage of "if you can't blind them with science just baffle them with bullshit" applies in this case. These are all about perceived value, nothing to do with performance. Just making money off suckers you can hoodwink. I know because this is what I do for a job. Convincing suckers to shell out more money than they need to by convincing them they are getting an imaginary benefit. We laugh every time we take these idiots for a ride and count the money going in our pockets.

That is the unfortunate truth with our modern economic system but it works and gives me the money to spend on hunting.

At least you have the balls to declare you are a fucking scum bag by what you have just written but because you wrote it we don't believe you know what your are talking about anymore.because you have used truth and bullshit in the same stupid post.Do you sell projectiles? make them? or just think you know ? or are you trying to hoodwink us into believing your smart?.all hunting projectiles kill animals effectively as long as they hit there mark IMO

Its all about impact velocity.
Match the projectile to the impact velocity and the intended range and you will be a happy man.

Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Its all about impact velocity.
Match the projectile to the impact velocity and the intended range and you will be a happy man.

Now.... that I can believe VC!!