Thread: Where to from here with my 7WSM?

How heavy is the complete setup?

The physics of light guns chambered in heavy recoiling cartridges is not conducive to getting great precision.

I tried Precision Hunter, Fusion and PowerShok before handloading. All around the same sort of accuracy and velocity as I recall, nothing exciting.

Originally Posted by Pommy

How heavy is the complete setup?

The physics of light guns chambered in heavy recoiling cartridges is not conducive to getting great precision.

It’s not light with the laminate stock… recoil is okay thanks to the brake, but I do find it jumps a lot with each shot. I pretty much never see the impact.

Originally Posted by 7mmwsm

Try PPU 160 grain projectiles. Probably not the type of projectile for long range stuff but them and 2217 work well for me out to 350. So might restore your confidence.

Okay, might give them a go. I’ve been thinking a cheaper stout projectile might be good for spook’n’shoot anyway, as the mag length doesn’t let me carry more than one of the long pointy ones in the mag.

Originally Posted by chainsaw

Does it shoot other projectiles accurately?
Before going to much further I’d try a simple flat base projectile, 150 - 160 gn with a proven powder in 7WSM (2213sc or 2217).
Run a ladder and record each shot so you can track what’s going on. You should find a node where several shots are closely grouped. Go from there.
If you can’t get accurate group with FB pill then it suggests something is wrong with with the rifle platform.
Check to make sure the mag box is not trapped & binding. I’ve been caught out with binding mag box in my 7SAUM in REM M7. The mag box should be able move slightly when the action is talked down.
Another trap with M7 is the stupid skinny rear action screw. Easy to strip & hard to get much torque into it. Tighten the rear action screw first with no pressure on front action screw. You should be able to get 15-20 in-lbs on it. Then torque down the front action screw which will also tighten up the rear.

All good thoughts thanks. I’ve avoided FBs previously chasing high BCs, but I think it might be good to have a load for one in any case. Yup, I hear you re. the action screw and mag box - I’m even mucking around with making a custom mag box to squeeze a few more mm of OAL into it.

Originally Posted by mopheadrob

It’s not light with the laminate stock… recoil is okay thanks to the brake, but I do find it jumps a lot with each shot. I pretty much never see the impact.

The rifle starts recoiling the moment the bullet starts moving. The brake is good at reducing felt recoil by turning some of the gas around as the bullet exits the muzzle, but by then the damage to precision is already done. That's why benchrest rifles are made to weigh so much - and why so many people offload T3X's chambered in 300wm.

The lrabs are really hard to get to shoot but once you get it you've struck gold!
I have been mucking around with the 168s in my new saum trying to get them to shoot for way too many shots.
I got them shooting single ragged holes at 100 yards and out at 300 they are a 3 inch group.
The best I have consistently managed at 300 is 1.8 inches so far.
My advice is: if your barrel likes them then stick to one powder and focus on seating depth. They will probably like somewhere between 50 and 100 thou jump.
Get a chronny and take note of the most efficient powder charge. I.e the point where extra powder charge doesn't equate to extra velocity as previously noted. Back off from there and you will find the efficient charge where you are getting good extreme spreed/deviation.
They are a fricken science to get them to shoot so make sure you have a good stock.
168s have been my favorite pills of all the 7mms

Originally Posted by Gkp

My advice is: if your barrel likes them then stick to one powder and focus on seating depth. They will probably like somewhere between 50 and 100 thou jump.
Get a chronny and take note of the most efficient powder charge. I.e the point where extra powder charge doesn't equate to extra velocity as previously noted. Back off from there and you will find the efficient charge where you are getting good extreme spreed/deviation.
They are a fricken science to get them to shoot so make sure you have a good stock.
168s have been my favorite pills of all the 7mms

Yeah, that was my approach with W760 until I ran out and couldn’t get more… best results used 59 grains and 35 thou jump (I tested in 30 thou steps out to 120 thou). It was getting .75 - 1.0” groups but trundling along at 2880 fps. I wanted to push them a bit faster than that (the Federal factory ammo was doing 3130).

I’m hoping it’s just a case of my rifle not liking them - otherwise I’m just a crap shot! I wouldn’t rule that out, but I have had a mate shoot it and he didn’t do much better.

I was tempted to try the 168 ABLRs but after my experience with the 150s I don’t really want to go down that rabbit-hole with such a spendy projectile.

My Ackley likes the LRABs but they do have a temperamental reputation. As has been said, try something else and I'd be thinking as a simple accuracy prover the std NBTs. It's a rare gun that won't shoot those. Sure, the BC isn't great but accuracy trumps BC any day.

To get my lrabs to group better it was a case of fine tuning the jump by 5 though increments. They are very fussy

You may also find a powder in the burn rate range of 2217 works well.
My previous wsm liked rl25 with 168 bergers.
My saum shoots the 168 lrab at 2900 with 62 grains of rl22.
64.5 g of rl22 with the 143 hammer gives me 3183fps.
I was also previously using superformance with the 143 with good results.
Similar case so may give you a good guide for the wsm

Just checked back through the comments and noticed nothing mentioned about the scope or mounts. Are the mounts set up and tensioned correctly? And maybe try a different scope. I got caught out by a leupold once a long time ago. Caused lots of head scratching and quite a bit of expense

Originally Posted by mopheadrob

It’s not light with the laminate stock… recoil is okay thanks to the brake, but I do find it jumps a lot with each shot. I pretty much never see the impact.

OK ...so for the sake of your sanity (and the family budget) PLEASE try any load you have already tried using current set up...but change your shooting position....hold the forend tightly pulling rifle back into your shoulder...it will either be better or worse than however you are currently shooting...when you say "jumps a lot"...I ASUME you are shooting off bipod with offside hand supporting the stock back at your shoulder/free recoil???? you have nothing to loose by giving a different position/technique a go.

Originally Posted by Gkp

You may also find a powder in the burn rate range of 2217 works well.

Tried 2217. 70.5 grains was the best, doing 2970 with an ES of 5 and a 1” group. Bracketed by very average loads though. I was hoping for at least 3000 fps and running out of case capacity, so went to Magpro rather than persisting. The Nosler website reckons that or RL19 is best behind the 150 ABLRs

How far are you wanting to and capable of harvesting a deer ? cause a 160ish gn projectile will do it out to quite far out even at 2900fps