Thread: Who can figure this one out

goodho ol chap......no one is having a go at you.....some of us have seen it turn to shit in past so passing on the hurt so to speak....
check them screws etc and let us know how you get on.

Cheers for the info, yup first thing i checked was bases.. yup understood about the head shots. With my line of work neck and head shooting has to be done cheers

No for sure, just wanted to clarify my line of work to put more of a background in what i do. Awesome to hear the concerns of the wellbeing of the animal.. and yup unfortunately I’ve also seen the bad side of head and neck shooting

Hi max, no try not to clean barrel

Cheers will definitely have a look into the action screw

Gidday - is the rifle "new to you" ?? Some rifles are worse than others with the "cold shot" being different (sometimes very different) to warm barrel groups. Obviously you could rule this out if it previously shot OK with factory ammo.

The issue with a "cold barrel" bastard is there isn't really a cure.

the bit where your rifle still grouping as such....but group is moving...suggests to me its NOT the load,but something changing. weather thats your technique (probably not from what youve just said) or morethan likely something loose/changing in rifle it self.

If tapping the scope moves the group I would be thinking there could be a adjustment issue with the scope, worth checking if you can mount a different scope.

For head shots facing away , not side on , is best .The reason being to high a clean miss . bang on , result . A little low and you hit the Atlas joint , result . A little lower and a neck shot , result . I have never understood the English need for head shots ? , it seems to be aligned to the bragging rights factor .
The major thing to remember is to look at the simplest thing first and work from there . I once missed at least 4 to 6 deer and each time I blamed my bum shooting until I decided to check my zero . I was 150 mm high at 30 metres , it usually the simple things don't try to over think it .

Originally Posted by Tankd

For head shots facing away , not side on , is best .The reason being to high a clean miss . bang on , result . A little low and you hit the Atlas joint , result . A little lower and a neck shot , result . I have never understood the English need for head shots ? , it seems to be aligned to the bragging rights factor .
The major thing to remember is to look at the simplest thing first and work from there . I once missed at least 4 to 6 deer and each time I blamed my bum shooting until I decided to check my zero . I was 150 mm high at 30 metres , it usually the simple things don't try to over think it .

We obviously have different opinions on were and were not to shoot. To me its a clean kill, with no meat damage and the contamination levels are seriously declined.. clean carcasses in the chill

Originally Posted by Mauser308

Check the occular end of the scope for wiggle too, the focus end that you look through. A knock here can do damage that doesn't show a physical scar but shifts the aiming point enough at range to create several inches of movement through loose fitting threads that should be tight. Shoot a group then push on the back of the scope and shoot another and see what happens. Then you gotta work out where the movement is occurring, mounts, rings or scope tube. Run a business card up the stock and see if there is any contact between the barrel and forestock, and also have a good look at the barrel for bore damage (bulges, corrosion, throat erosion or crown damage). Then a physical check of the action itself and fire control system (trigger bolt) and bedding.

After that if you haven't found out what is causing it, it's a trip to the gunsmith or your other option is because it's a Tikka flick it to another fanboi for more than retail and make it someone else's problem (not being serious, ok maybe a little).

Cool ill have a look at all of the above.. haha never had problems with my factory rounds, so hopefully its the scope cheers

I'd say scope is the issue from your comment about tapping the turrets. Swap it out with another to check.

Greetings,
One thing not mentioned is parallax. Your scope will have adjustable parallax correction. Assuming you have adjusted the scope for your zero range you can test for parallax by moving your head behind the scope with the rifle steady. If the cross hairs move across the target your graduations may be off (not unheard of even in expensive scopes). If this is the case try moving the adjustment until the movement stops and test again.
Grandpamac.

Originally Posted by Tikka7mm08

I'd say scope is the issue from your comment about tapping the turrets. Swap it out with another to check.

My thoughts exactly, trying another scope would clear up that possibility.

You're taking a very professional quality improvement approach to this.
The other member who does this is @Flyblown whose advice would be well worth having.