BP always pure lead?
BP always pure lead?
Boom, cough,cough,cough
I say yes, the additives and gas checks come when you are using nitro with lead projectiles, or trying to push the limits of black powder.
If you are shooting round ball, any additives will cause problems, pure lead is the way to go.
The only real problem I had when shooting lead slugs and balls was when I inadvertently mixed some hard lead into a large batch of projectiles. Took some finding why I suddenly had problems after successfully shooting slugs out to 500m and balls out to 200m
Last edited by redbang; 06-03-2015 at 10:41 PM.
Muzzleloaders have big balls
had a look at some 50/50 solder crist that stuff is expensive $32 for a 200gm stick is there any other way to add tin to the mix
Told ya it was expensive, the only other way I know of is to try and get lead pipe from scrap metal or demo merchants, the joints on that were soldered with 50/50.
The alternative is to set your velocity sights lower and use pure lead. It's fine for target shooting, and on game animals a bullet with a nice large meplat gives pretty impressive results. You just have to be more accurate in measuring range.
I just use wheel weights straight for hard bullets and pure lead for my 58s both mine and round ball. The 4570 velocity should be fine for pure lead also
If it is Tin (Sn) that you want there are two possible sources , One is to use pewter (never done it myself ) .And two is to use Plumbers solder which can be brought from any Plumber Trade suppliers ,I think from memory Chesters is a source and would be about $15???? which from memory is 50/50 lead/Tin and comes in a 500gm ??? stick.
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