Thread: Who still makes 0.223" diameter projectiles?

This rifle should shoot a maximum four shot group size of 65mm at 100m. Mine was recorded by the factory having a 40mm group.
Your rifle should easily achieve 25mm at 50m. Remember that this is not a bench rest rig, it is a hunting rifle, so shoot it like one!
A fence post will work if you can get into a repeatable position, a bag will help and a sturdy seat too.

The bedding might look rough, but they are factory bedded with a brown compound which is effective, the front action screw is also an aluminium pillar.

Don't give up. You've got me fired up with my one, I have ordered some .222 projectiles from Gunworks to try also.

The correct projectile size is uncertain - I think the original Russian was .221" but CIP states 5.67mm which is just over .223"

Another thing with these - the cases are notorious for stretching with heavy loads due to the shoulder angle, so keep an eye on the case length - 38.7mm

Interesting to know about accuracy from the factory, I haven’t come across much info like that but I did come across an adapter that is shaped like a 220 cartridge but is made to shoot 22lr, the bedding on my rifle has been redone with some white sort of material, which has also glued the back of the action into the stock, I’ll play around with that some other time though, currently don’t need to remove the action, although that may come soon enough as my stock has already had repairs so a new one may be in the rifles future.

I read about the case stretching too, so far my cases aren’t too bad but I’ve only just worked up to 23gr loads before chasing the scope issues, but so far the cases are 38.4/38.5mm fired which is the same as the brand new ones.

Ok. So nine folks out of ten will tell you your shooting yourself in foot. I'm in that camp. NO part of rifle should touch something solid. To shoot over a fencepost you do the dreaded hand sandwich...your offhand,the one that's not on trigger is on forend back of hand on top of post. Or left elbow on top of post. If you insist on keeping rifle on post for crying out loud pad it with something soft. But you seriously handicapping yourself. You need to be prone with rifle in both hands with soft cushion,rolled sleeping bag,jacket etc under front hand and forestock or under mag n forend with offhand holding firmly Infront of that. Then line up bullseye,when your steady,close eyes for ten or twenty seconds and open them again.you still lined up??? If not wiggle around and move support padding until you are. An elcheapho bipod Harris knock off is under hundy bucks and will help you get steady but shooting over a soft rest should be second nature to you.

Originally Posted by Crusty

Attachment 255226Attachment 255227

Well now thats certainly neat, my rifle didnt come with anything of the sort although I do believe I had brought it from the original owner,

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

Ok. So nine folks out of ten will tell you your shooting yourself in foot. I'm in that camp. NO part of rifle should touch something solid. To shoot over a fencepost you do the dreaded hand sandwich...your offhand,the one that's not on trigger is on forend back of hand on top of post. Or left elbow on top of post. If you insist on keeping rifle on post for crying out loud pad it with something soft. But you seriously handicapping yourself. You need to be prone with rifle in both hands with soft cushion,rolled sleeping bag,jacket etc under front hand and forestock or under mag n forend with offhand holding firmly Infront of that. Then line up bullseye,when your steady,close eyes for ten or twenty seconds and open them again.you still lined up??? If not wiggle around and move support padding until you are. An elcheapho bipod Harris knock off is under hundy bucks and will help you get steady but shooting over a soft rest should be second nature to you.

Thanks for all the extra tips Micky, as I said above, I'm a novice, I would have shot less than 300 rounds total, 60 of them been from this 220, 20 from a 44 mag, and the rest 22lr
I'll shoot my next group from some soft bags on the ground and see how it changes, Is it okay to have the target slightly lower than myself or does it need to be level?

I actually just got in from shooting some more rounds and it seems the groups are worse already with the old scope back on it, the overall 6 shot group was 8cm but within that group there were 3 shots within 2cm and 2 shots within 2 cm with 1 flier. still a wide group though.
Guess it'll be interesting to see if theres a measurable improvement with bags vs fence post,

I did try the shut your eye test and I had moved although not by much, still within the blue circle just no longer center.

It does seem that the scope is leading to weird grouping compared to the 4x but I don't know enough to draw much of a conclusion there.

Level or not won't matter much at that range.at 25 yards you could shoot pattern like that with a smoothbore shotgun.

I'll have room to shoot out to about 80m, although with the grouping I'm getting I'll probably stick to a 25m/50m or 30m/60m and see what happens.
Hopefully the groups come back when shooting off bags, in saying that if its group at 8cm off a solid rest, shooting off hand is going to be terrible grouping wise,

will load some more up in the next few days and get out with some soft bags to compare, probably going to up the charge too 23.5gr for some as the cases are still coming out sooty at 23gr, going off Crusty's previous post 25gr of 2207 is about max load so a bit more room to play with yet.

Not sure which mounts you have. But they are important.
I have the 7.62x39 version and it shoots steel Barnel ammo entirely adequately.

As Crusty says , they are a working rifle and mine has been a good knock about. Tips over Sika very well.
Don't lose the mag. Although a Ruger Mini 30 might fit.

I used steel rimfire rings as the Dovetail is a weird size.
The trigger can be worked by an experienced Gunsmith. It was two stage from memory.
The stock is Beech so not the flashiest.
Pennyless

Your still not getting it. You should shoot much much better prone with padding than standing no matter how you try it. You are in a much more stable position,that's one of the rules that's simply always been. From memory it goes prone,sitting using knees as elbow rests,kneeling,then standing in order of stability.

I'd suggest trying 24.5gr, but watch out for pressure signs. You can always post a photo of some fired case heads/primers if you want an opinion.
My last load I did was 24.7gr, but a .221" bullet, so a .223" might show higher pressure.

I used steel rimfire rings too, they aren't the easiest mounts to set up. make sure the front mount isn't too far forward where the dovetail widens.

Originally Posted by pennyless

Not sure which mounts you have. But they are important.
I have the 7.62x39 version and it shoots steel Barnel ammo entirely adequately.

As Crusty says , they are a working rifle and mine has been a good knock about. Tips over Sika very well.
Don't lose the mag. Although a Ruger Mini 30 might fit.

I used steel rimfire rings as the Dovetail is a weird size.
The trigger can be worked by an experienced Gunsmith. It was two stage from memory.
The stock is Beech so not the flashiest.
Pennyless

No clue on the mounts, dont see any obvious branding, they seem to work fine with the 4x scope, but then the groups get noticeably worse with the burris 3-9x

trigger isn't bad imo, reminds me of my TOZ-17, plenty of take up before breaking,
my stock has been cracked on the RH side of the action from where the bolt handle cutout is, its been repaired and seems solid but I wouldn't be surprised if its a weak point now

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

Your still not getting it. You should shoot much much better prone with padding than standing no matter how you try it. You are in a much more stable position,that's one of the rules that's simply always been. From memory it goes prone,sitting using knees as elbow rests,kneeling,then standing in order of stability.

aye aye captain, I'll get out with bags asap, although I feel the difference in scopes is still note worthy, the burris has almost 2x the grouping size off the same rest compared to the nikko.

Originally Posted by Crusty

I'd suggest trying 24.5gr, but watch out for pressure signs. You can always post a photo of some fired case heads/primers if you want an opinion.
My last load I did was 24.7gr, but a .221" bullet, so a .223" might show higher pressure.

I used steel rimfire rings too, they aren't the easiest mounts to set up. make sure the front mount isn't too far forward where the dovetail widens.

no clue on the rings as they were on there with the rifle, there is a smidge of surface corrosion on the top so probably a fair guess to say they're steel of some sort. The front ring is mounted a few mm back from where it starts to widen, I could move it back if its likely to be an issue.
I feel I should probably work my way up in loads being that I'm using oversized projectiles, but its good to know where my likely max charge will be, Have you chrono'd any of your loads?

yes, some data.

AR2207

22.5 gr. 3392 - but seated too long, so ignore
23.0 gr. 3384
23.5 gr. 3494

25.0 gr. 3693 - this one showed some cratering of the primer, so too hot.

BM2

25.0 gr. 3079
25.5 gr. 3234
26.0 gr. 3315
26.5 gr. 3385
27.0 gr. 3440

What barrel length do you have?
My last chrono'd load was 22gr of 2207 which was an average of 3060fps, but my rifles cut to 16" and suppressed.

Jeez Goose!

you have really sent me down a rabbit hole!

Checked the case necks - fired up my lathe and turned up and threaded a mandrel for my neck Turner (didn't have a .22)
Shortened 50 cases in my RCBS case length lathe/tool then turned all the necks

Loaded up about 30 rounds, 4 different loads using the Sierra 45gr Hornet (this looks like a perfect bullet, Nice and short)

a couple of other .221" loads.

Dismantled the rifle and adjusted the trigger.

Mounted a scope

Fitted some QD swivel sockets for the sling.

Going to the range in the morning.

Will report back with results.....

Sell it.
Buy a 222 or 223.
Sleep well.
Save lots of money.
Save lots of time.