Thread: .308 WIN Projectile Type/Weight Advice

For that distance, any soft point 150gr and up will be fine. I would personally go for the PPU 150gr SP or the Belmont 150gr as its loaded with the hornady interlock.

As above pretty much any 150gr soft point will do the job, have used fed blue box to good effect and handloaded hornady interlock and can recommend both those projectiles.

Remington Corelokt "deadliest mushroom in the forest" - 'nuff said

Belmont 150s are accurate and only $20 something a box. 180gr in the roar on big reds at close range.

Originally Posted by Dorkus

Remington Corelokt "deadliest mushroom in the forest" - 'nuff said

i have gone back to 308 150g Remington corelokts after using sst and find there much better suited for close bush hunting.

Thanks for all your responses!
I will run a few boxes of 150gr SP through my rifle and see how she feels about them.
Guess I fell into a total noob trap thinking that the heavier the better; so many factors to take into account. My rifle only has a 16" barrel (they called it a "bushpig" in the store, but it has a Stealth suppressor, which effecitively takes it back up to 20" I guess?)
I was thinking about going down the reloading road, so the brass quality of the ammo I'm buying is a consideration. I know nothing about Corelokt projectiles yet, I'm currently researching brass and I have heard some variable reports about Remington brass (nobody seems to have anything bad to say about Lapua, except for the pricing - lol).

Originally Posted by ocium

Thanks for all your responses!
I will run a few boxes of 150gr SP through my rifle and see how she feels about them.
Guess I fell into a total noob trap thinking that the heavier the better; so many factors to take into account. My rifle only has a 16" barrel (they called it a "bushpig" in the store, but it has a Stealth suppressor, which effecitively takes it back up to 20" I guess?)
I was thinking about going down the reloading road, so the brass quality of the ammo I'm buying is a consideration. I know nothing about Corelokt projectiles yet, I'm currently researching brass and I have heard some variable reports about Remington brass (nobody seems to have anything bad to say about Lapua, except for the pricing - lol).

I have bought the Belmont 150gr SP in the past and kept that brass and reloaded with it! It has been absolutely fine to use but will only get a few reloads out of it compared to the more fancy brass.
I was getting 2800fps from my 18” barrel pushing 150sst with brass looking all good!

Lapua might be more expensive up front, but it lasts that much longer that the cost per firing works out the same if not less.

Originally Posted by gonetropo

before i discovered the 7mmRM i was a confirmed 308 fan. i shot everything from sabot 47gr

What projectile/calibre? 5000fps, I want a turn!

Originally Posted by ocium

Thanks for all your responses!
I will run a few boxes of 150gr SP through my rifle and see how she feels about them.
Guess I fell into a total noob trap thinking that the heavier the better; so many factors to take into account. My rifle only has a 16" barrel (they called it a "bushpig" in the store, but it has a Stealth suppressor, which effecitively takes it back up to 20" I guess?)
I was thinking about going down the reloading road, so the brass quality of the ammo I'm buying is a consideration. I know nothing about Corelokt projectiles yet, I'm currently researching brass and I have heard some variable reports about Remington brass (nobody seems to have anything bad to say about Lapua, except for the pricing - lol).

Try different brands of factory ammo, even different weights, to find what groups best in your gun. At only 16" (and it is only 16" - a supressor isn't more barrel) you won't be getting max velocities, in which case more weight can be a help, but any pill from .308 is more'n'enough gun for anything in NZ.
Your twist rate will also affect what projectiles can be stabilised.
Inside 100y the drop isn't even a consideration. Zero at 75 and you'l be in the killzone out to 200
ShootersCalculator.com | Ballistic Trajectory Calculator

Reloading isn't too much of a headache in sporting quantities and you can tune a sweetsweet load for your particular rifle. Any brass is good brass if you're not shooting F-class. Get all your mates' once-fired. I generally try and keep headstamps separate but for your accuracy requirements that's probably not even necessary.

or....if you zero at say 26 yards...you will be ABOUT 3" HIGH at hundy and good to hold on centre shoulder to about 250.........

I use 30-30 for thick bush hunting with open sight, it works very well.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

or....if you zero at say 26 yards...you will be ABOUT 3" HIGH at hundy and good to hold on centre shoulder to about 250.........

True but at that short distance parallax and focus problems can turn a 1/4 inch error into 1 inch at 100. A lot of people when zeroing accept maybe 1/2 either side of poi as being ok, thats a max spread of 8 inches at 200.
I know a guy who used 25 yd zero because its 2 1/2 high at 100 and zero again at 200. After missing several deer at around 100 -180 he reshot it, it seemed ok but someone suggested he try it at 100. He now checks zero at 100.
Use 25 by all means but check it at longer range first chance you get.

agree MH. always good/best to check at hundy.... if you a lucky chap and were good in previous life...... your rifle will be sighted like that with say 150s and smack on at hundy with 180s...mine is that close to it its not funny.

Plenty of good advice here.

In your situation I would go with Nosler Partition when you start reloading. They have the BC of bricks, but that’s irrelevant for your desired use. Good expansion and penetration for those piggy shoulder shields.

150, 165 spritzer or 170 round nose would all do really well.

I am a fan of heavy for caliber projectiles for close and long work. Those big round nose jobbies hit really hard even at low velocity.

Good luck whatever you decide.

Hand loading and projectiles is a subject in its self.

If you intend to reload in the future then try to stick to one brand of ammo in the meantime to collect brass of the same type. Remington and federal are perfectly fine to make good hunting ammo later on. I don't know what type of brass Belmont use.

Fancy brass like lapua or norma is all good and well, you may get longer case life than lesser brands. If you not a competitive target shooter, I wouldn't worry to much, just try and stick to one brand of brass.

I started with handloading with about 150 cases of hornady that I had shot as factory ammo. That brass is well used now, most having been fired about nine times. Well work through three different rifles and two sets of dies, always full length re-sized to minimum SAMMI specs. Its still going strong and never been annealed.