Thread: Draft of a "New Zealand new hunters/visitors Guide" for consideration

Retrieving alpine trophies in New Zealand.

This is maybe the single most dangerous thing you will do in NZ.

Yes you can shoot that Bull Tahr or Chamois Buck, but can you safely retrieve it ?

This is likely the thing that catches out more foreign hunters than anything else.
There are just so many hidden dangers.
Even animals shot at a modest distance can take a full day to recover.
Have you got the time, skill and gear to safely retrieve that trophy ?
If you are carrying climbing gear do you know how to actually use it.

In 2009 I shot a bull in Southwestland at 330m in the late evening.
The following day it took 8 hours from where I shot to get to the bull, take the head and cape and return to where I shot it from.

It is extremely difficult to realistically judge travel times in these places if you aren't experienced in this type of terrain and vegetation

I shot 2 Chamois last year but could only recover 1. Hunting solo meant no way was I going to try and scale that bluff, I had been a fairly proficient rock climber 20 years ago too.

Even tracks with a decent amount of use can grow over quite quickly.

Ok folks, here’s Version 2 for your consideration:



__________________________________________________ _________________

This post is relevant as of February 2025. Laws and rules are likely to change over time, so if you’re reading this a considerable period into the future, some aspects of this guide may be out of date. Since the world seems to be increasingly litigious, this is not advice, just information that is hopefully mostly accurate.

This is meant to be a general guide, so won’t go into specifics on particular regions, techniques etc etc etc. This is meant to familiarize new and overseas hunters with hunting on public land in New Zealand and give you the tools to figure the rest out on your own.



1. Information about hunting in New Zealand.
There are many threads discussing visitors hunting in New Zealand on this forum and on facebook hunting groups. Using the search function will yield a lot of good info on where to hunt, when to hunt, what conditions you might face, etc. Youtube is excellent for understanding what hunting is like in NZ, but beware: videos don’t show how steep the hills are, how hot the sun is, how heavy the packs are, how spiky the plants are, or how little water there can be in places.

2. Applying for your NZ visitor’s firearms license.
Apply for your visitor’s firearms license well in advance (4+ Months). Nothing like planning your whole trip and spending a ton of money, then having it all fail because you didn’t do the right paperwork. (https://www.firearmssafetyauthority....rearms-licence). It’s a lot easier to do your paperwork in advance and then later change your travel dates on already approved paperwork than it is to rush it through last minute.

A firearms license is not required for any form of bow or crossbow. Hunting with a bow or crossbow still requires a hunting permit (see below).

3. Ammunition.
If you have a particular ammunition you need, check the NZ gun shops where you’re going to see if they have it. Ammo is generally expensive in New Zealand and more limited selection. Don’t expect to be able to find the specific ammo you want. This also applies to archery equipment, including heads. If you’re travelling with ammo, see the travel section next.

4. Export/re-import firearms permits for your country
You may need an export/re-import permit from your home country to take your firearm/ammunition/optics out of the country and return with them, even if it isn’t permanently. Check your home country’s rules. In some cases there is paperwork for temporary export, while other countries treat everything as a permanent export until you return and do a new import permit. Some countries have controls on some optics in addition to the firearm and ammunition.

5. International Travel.
Transit countries
Be aware that if you’re flying with a firearm/ammunition, bow, crossbow, and field/broadheads, and are transiting through third countries, you may need import/export permits for those countries, even if you never receive your bags in that country. Read the firearms laws for your transit countries, and get it in writing what paperwork you will need. Keep in mind many countries consider things like bows, spearguns etc, to be firearms. It’s safest to avoid transiting through third countries, but if you have to, do your homework and have it in writing on paper so it can be referred to with whoever you’re dealing with.

Immigration/customs on arrival in New Zealand
If you are landing in one New Zealand city then transferring flights to your final destination, you will have to collect your bags and go through customs and biosecurity in the first place you enter New Zealand. This is also where you’ll have your firearms, ammunition, and paperwork checked by police, so leave extra time between flights here. Given that you’ll probably have firearms and hunting gear, you’re going to get a thorough inspection by the police, then by biosecurity who are very likely to ask you to empty out every piece of gear you have. Biosecurity expectation is that everything entering into the country has been thoroughly washed, scrubbed, and dried, including boots, pockets of bags, inside tents, etc. If your gear is dirty you can spend an hour or two getting it all cleaned out. If you don’t declare it, there are very large fines.

6. Firearms transport and Storage
Airline Storage and Transport
Airlines vary widely on how they want firearms and ammunition secured and transported. Contact your airline by email and get them to spell out how they want it secured. Get them to clarify if you’re unsure. How ammunition is transported seems to be the most common issue, with loose ammunition being absolutely prohibited, and some airlines interpreting ammunition as having to be in factory packaging, while others accept it in plastic ammo boxes. The intent is to not have loose ammo, but you might save a potential headache if all ammo is in factory boxes (even if it might be handloads).

Within NZ Storage and Transport
This starts encroaching on the legal side of things which I don’t really want to go too far into. Generally speaking, if you want a stress free trip, follow police policy regarding storage and transport (https://www.firearmssafetyauthority....and-ammunition). Read it, print it out, carry it with you, and follow it. It’s not a guarantee that NZ police know the firearms laws or policy, so if they do inspect you, you may need to walk through police policy with them, and it helps to have printed copies with you.

If you want to know what the actual law says and you enjoy reading legal documents, take a deep dive into the wonderful world of the NZ Arms Act, amendment acts, and amendment regulations. I’ve never seen a list of them all in one place so it’s hard to say all the different laws that needs to be read in conjunction with each other if you go this route. The actual law and police policy aren't completely identical, so there are definite grey areas that can lead to issues.

7. Firearms
This will be a fairly gross oversimplification of some fairly weird laws, but as of February 2025 for hunting on public land for large game, you’ll need to use a firearm that meets the following conditions:
- No semi-auto centrefire, full auto, or handguns allowed for hunting.
- Lever action, bolt action, straight pull, and pump allowed with the following conditions:
- Longer than 762mm (30 inches) when in its smallest shootable configuration, measured from its muzzle to the back of the firearm.
- chambered in a centrefire, rifle cartridge at least as large with as much or more muzzle energy as .222.
- Magazine capacity of 10 rounds or less.
-Pump actions must also not have a detachable magazine.

If you want to use a rimfire, muzzle loader, or shotgun of any kind on public land, you’ll need a special permit.

On private land you can use any of the above for hunting except semi-auto, full auto, or handguns.

Suppressors require a police mail order form to buy online, but are otherwise uncontrolled. Your firearm will need to be threaded concentric to the bore or else you may get baffle strikes. Suppressors will also shift your point of impact.

8. Hunting permits and Licenses
Large game, Public Land hunting permits
Specifically for large game on public land, these permits are free online (https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-re...unting-permit/). They are basically a method of getting you read and agree to the Public Land rules of not scaring people, not shooting native birds, and generally not being irritating or unsafe. They are required for all forms of hunting on public land.
The form itself takes about 2 minutes to fill out and goes straight to your email. Check the boxes for the regions you’re thinking about hunting, and read the rules for each region, along with area closures and warnings, since they can change without warning.
See below for info on private land hunting, small game hunting, bird hunting, and firearms.

Small Game on public land
Small game (rabbits, hares, Canada/feral geese) hunting on public land is restricted and not part of the general hunting license. Contact the regional DOC office for the hunting area to get restricted permit. Some information is available on the big game permit page (https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-re...unting-permit/).

Private land hunting
Hunting on private land for anything other than game birds does not require a hunting license. You will still need to follow all relevant laws relating to firearms and have landowner permission. See next for gamebirds.

Game Bird Hunting
Game Bird hunting requires separate paid licenses and are protected by hunting seasons and bag limits. Canada and Feral geese are considered small game rather than Game Birds.
Further info:
- https://www.fishandgame.org.nz/game-...cks-and-swans/
- https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-re...unt/gamebirds/

9. Weather and environment
The weather is the main thing you need to worry about in New Zealand. Storms and weather events are common, and big storms can wipe out highways and shut down regions. Some regions only have one or two major roads, so road closures can block access to the entire region. Plan a couple different hunt options spaced well apart in case one area gets rained out, roads are closed etc. There are many sources for weather forecasts in New Zealand, however weather can change quickly, so keep monitoring forecasts as you go. Don’t be afraid to pull out of a hunt if things aren’t looking good – the weather is the most dangerous part of being in New Zealand.

Also keep in mind because New Zealand is the southern hemisphere, the seasons are opposite compared to the northern hemisphere.
- Spring is September/October/November
- Summer is December/January/February
- Fall is March/April/May
- Winter is June/July/August

This website gives you an idea of seasonal trends for different parts of the country: https://www.newzealand.com/int/seasons-in-new-zealand/
If you want to know about a specific region’s weather, you can look at the historical weather analysis for each region here: https://niwa.co.nz/climate-and-weath...-climatologies
You can see the seasonal forecast for each region here: https://niwa.co.nz/climate-and-weath...limate-outlook.


Rain, cold, and damp are going to be your biggest issue when hunting in New Zealand. Rainstorms can come in quickly and stay for days. This can reduce visibility to nothing, making travel or flying impossible. With or without rain, the humidity is often high through the winter that your gear won't dry on its own and any wood out in the open will be wet. Knowing where a nearby hut is can be helpful if you need to get out of the weather for a day or two. Not all huts have fireplaces, but most are reasonably weatherproof. If you’re hunting any time between March and November, plan for lots of rain and damp, then be pleasantly surprised if it doesn’t rain.

Rain can also be an issue by causing surges in rivers, streams, and small creeks. Even if you don’t get rain directly on you, rain inland can cause even a small creek to surge high enough that you can’t safely cross for a day or more.

Sun and UV Index are high in New Zealand. The temperatures aren’t as hot as many places in the world, but people tend to get much worse sunburns in New Zealand than elsewhere, even when it's overcast. Every single guest I've ever had in NZ has had at least one unexpected sunburn, either on a cloudy day, or within minutes on a bright day. SPF50+ sunscreen, broad brimmed hats, and long sleeved clothing is a good idea any time between late spring and early fall, or any clear day.

Slopes and steep terrain are another aspect of hunting in New Zealand. The mountains aren’t exceptionally tall, but they can be very steep and cliffy. Most public land hunting in New Zealand includes a considerable amount of walking both horizontally and vertically. Be prepared for very small features on the map to completely wreck your plans and change your entire hunt. Sometimes a slightly difficult route in the morning can become completely impassable after some rain, or the temperature has dropped below freezing. Even if you spot an animal 300m away across a gully, there may not be any safe way to get there once you’ve shot it. If you’re looking to get a feel for what it can be like, south-island deer and tahr hunting is much closer to mountain goat/sheep hunting in North America and Chamois hunting in Europe than most NA deer hunting. See below for discussion on fitness.

Drinking water can be scarce in alpine areas. Unless you’re sure of water somewhere, bring it with you. If there is significant farming nearby, or livestock uphill or upstream, don’t trust the water. If you’re up high in the mountains and the water is flowing somewhat quickly, you’re probably fine to drink it.



10. Planning your hunt
If you’re new to hunting in NZ, these are some excellent resources to help you get a feel for what’s here and plan your hunt.

Department of Conservation (DOC) Public Land Maps website
(https://www.doc.govt.nz/map/index.html). This website is fantastic for learning about areas. In base layers, you can change between topographic and satellite layers to see elevation (each line is 20m increments) and also actual imagery of the area you’re interested in. You can also turn on and off features like hunting boundaries, trails, huts, etc. If you hover your cursor over a feature like a trail or hut, you’ll get a pop up window that you can click to go to the DOC webpage with more information on it. This webpage is very handy for understanding where you’re going, what’s there, the rules/restrictions, hut fees etc.
Of special note, there are some restricted or ballot only zones that show up in yellow or red on the doc map when you turn on the hunting boundaries. These require ballot or some other special access through DOC. You won’t get access to these areas without going through a ballot system or speaking to the local DOC office. There is lots of open public land with tons of animals, so don’t stress if you have to try somewhere new.

DOC pest poisoning maps
All mammals (minus two rare bats) are introduced to New Zealand, so deer, chamois, tahr, goats, rabbits, hares, ferrets, weasels, stoats, rats, mice etc are all considered invasive. To try to manage them, DOC does aerial and ground poisoning to control their numbers. This can affect when and where you hunt. Generally try to avoid areas that have been poisoned.
This website shows where they have, or are planning to do poisoning (https://maps.doc.govt.nz/externalmap...sticidesummary). They also show future poison projects so you may be able to sneak in ahead of them.

DOC Offices and visitor centers
If you’re in an area and looking for more information, DOC offices are a great resource. DOC offices have the staff for that region in them, and many of them are often hunters or otherwise know about animals for that area. They’re often more than happy to have a talk about hunting and give you some local knowledge on the area. Visitor centers are more focused on the general public so aren't as likely to give specific hunting info, but they're good for general hiking and regional info.
Alphabetical Offices List: https://www.doc.govt.nz/footer-links...ffice-by-name/
List/Map view of offices: https://www.doc.govt.nz/footer-links...sitor-centres/

Outdoor Access Commission
This is an agency whose role is to help the public access public land. They do this by negotiating access across private land, re-establishing use of public land, and educating the public.
https://www.herengaanuku.govt.nz/advice

The fastest way to find information is through the map. The map interface is very similar to the DOC map, however there are more layers showing all the different public lands that exist, not just DOC. Keep in mind that many of these layers may not be commonly used/recognized as public land and were never fully surveyed, so while there may be a 10m or 20m wide public land strip running through a property on a map, it might go over a cliff, through a house, or up a river, and just because there’s an impassable obstacle, you aren’t allowed to leave that public easement for any reason. In other instances, private landowners have occupied the public land and don’t want to recognize the access. Either way, be cautious. https://maps.herengaanuku.govt.nz/Vi...94c3839df4d3a3

While the map is easy to use, speaking to OAC field staff is often very worthwhile as they will know exactly who to talk to for access, or better routes to get where you want to go. https://www.herengaanuku.govt.nz/adv...field-advisors


NZ Topo50 App
This is a phone-based app that gives you offline topo maps for either the North or South Island. This can be tremendously useful when you spot an animal and need to do some impromptu estimation on whether you can reach it or not. As always, carry paper maps of your area, but this is an excellent resource as well.
Android (https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...urces&hl=en_NZ)
Iphone (https://apps.apple.com/nz/developer/...es/id522317291).
There is a separate app for the North and South Island, so download the right one, or both.

Paper maps and navigation
As always, check map scale, compass declination, and coordinate systems you’re using.

Compasses from the northern hemisphere may not work well in the southern hemisphere, and vice versa – some stick and drag in their housing. You can buy a universal compass to solve this.
Compass declination will vary depending on where in NZ you are, and this changes over the years based on where magnetic north is. Check your declination here: https://www.magnetic-declination.com/

If you want to put coordinates on a flat map in NZ, you’ll likely need to use the New Zealand Transverse Mercator (NZTM) projection (more info https://www.linz.govt.nz/guidance/ge...nd/projections). If you’re trying to convert coordinates from a world datum (datum being a coordinate system for a sphere) to a flat map projection (projection being a flattened out coordinate system for maps), you’ll need to use something like LINZ’s coordinate conversion webpage (https://www.geodesy.linz.govt.nz/concord/).


11. General NZ hunting knowledge

Animals to hunt
DOC has an excellent page on what you can and can’t hunt in New Zealand. It gives you a good idea of what animals there are in New Zealand, but don’t rely on them to tell you exact areas, or their population density. Generally it’s accurate if it says the numbers are very low, but otherwise you’ll need to do your own research. (https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-re.../what-to-hunt/)

Public Land, Conservation areas, and Parks
Most public hunting areas are either DOC administered Conservation Areas or Parks. Unlike elsewhere in the world, these parks and conservation areas are often open for hunting, since the animals you’re hunting are considered invasive. There are many DOC areas that’re closed for hunting, usually due to having high numbers of visitors, so make sure the DOC land you're wanting to hunt is also an open permit area, using the DOC map system discussed above.

DOC Huts
New Zealand has a very unique public hut system. These are a mixture of mostly public huts and a few club managed buildings across New Zealand that provide you with shelter in remote areas. ( https://www.doc.govt.nz/huts )

While very few require reservations, the vast majority are first come first serve. Some more accessible ones require hut passes (purchasable from DOC visitor sites), while the more remote ones are often free. They can vary from freshly renovated and weatherproof 20-30 person buildings to dirt-floored leaky tin structures, but by and large they all do a good job of providing you with shelter from the weather.

You can expect a hut to at minimum have four walls, a roof, a window, a door, and two sleeping platforms, and they only get better from there. DOC’s website does a good job of listing the info for each hut, and you can find out more by googling the hut name.

You’re likely to end up sharing huts with people, both hunters and non-hunters. This guide has a decent balance of hut etiquette suggestions: https://goodblokes.nz/backcountry-hu...e-for-hunters/

Some other good hut tips:
- Be prepared to sleep on the floor or under a bunk if the hut is crowded.
- Bring lots of earplugs. Guaranteed someone is going to snore. If it’s you, bring new ones to share with others.
- Bring a lightweight tarp to sleep under if you’re relying on a hut but it’s already completely full.
- When you are leaving, prop the mattresses up against the walls, sweep out and clean up the hut, and secure the windows and doors.
- Make sure the fire’s out if there’s an open fireplace, and consider replenishing the firewood if there’s dead wood around.

One thing that isn’t widely discussed in NZ is that hut books exist for more than just safety. While they’re definitely used to find lost hikers, they’re also a very important way DOC identifies what huts are getting used, and why they’re being used. They use this data to justify maintaining huts, and where to put their energy. Not putting your name down, or not saying you’re a hunter robs them of the ability to show a hut is being used, and that hunting is happening in the area. DOC is a government organization and any decision they make is based on the data they get. If you don’t show that you used a remote hut, they may not think anyone is using it. If you don’t say you’re a hunter, they don’t think that hunters are actively in the forest managing animal populations.

Mountain Safety Council Outdoor Resources
This is more focussed on outdoor education, but there’s a bit of info in there for everyone.
The Learn Skills section is great for new hunters to pick up a lot of core info quickly: https://www.mountainsafety.org.nz/learn/skills
The Plan My Walks website gives tons of in-depth information on all the official tracks across NZ. It’s focussed on trampers/hikers, but it’s also very useful in planning hunts since it gives you good info on what to expect nearby. https://planmywalk.nz/tracks

Physical Fitness
Right up there with the weather, physical fitness is the next biggest thing that catches people off guard hunting in NZ. Unless you’re hunting on private land, it’s unlikely that you’ll have vehicle access and it’s unlikely to be flat. As said earlier, most hunting in New Zealand (especially the South Island) is a lot closer to mountain goat/sheep/chamois hunting than it is to flatlands deer hunting. That’s absolutely not to say you can’t hunt unless you’re in perfect physical shape, but you should go into this with a clear understanding that it’s going to be much harder on you than you might expect. You can never be fit enough for hunting in NZ, so if you’re thinking about hunting, start working out now and you’ll have a much more enjoyable experience.
Just a personal observation, but so far the best training I’ve found has been doing stairs with a heavy pack (both up and down), and cardio. If either of those are difficult for you now then you need to be doing them, because you’re going to have to do them while hunting.

General safety
- 111 is the emergency phone number in New Zealand.

- Healthcare for emergencies and most general medical issues when in the country is more or less free. If you get injured or sick, it won’t bankrupt you. You’ll probably incur some costs, but they won’t be world ending. I’d still strongly recommend you carry insurance since it will help accessing services faster and provide you with ongoing support after the emergency response, especially if it’s something serious enough that you’ll need help when you go back home.

- Search and Rescue is free. They would rather you call them than be afraid of incurring the cost of a rescue. It wouldn’t hurt if you made a donation after the fact though, they’re mostly volunteers.

- Personal Locator Beacons (PLB’s) are commonly used in New Zealand and are excellent safety devices. Unlike other communication devices like Inreach and Spot, PLB’s do not require any subscriptions and are only meant as emergency beacons. They’re small (about the size of a cigarette carton), the batteries are good for 5 years (they have an expiry date listed on their housing), and current models usually have a 24-48 hour transmitting battery life with GPS and radio transmitter. They’re generally $250-$500 new, or can be rented by the day or week from many outdoor stores. Expired PLB’s are generally not worth buying since replacement batteries cost as much as a new PLB. One benefit to them is that they are not prone to wearing out their battery since they have no other functions to perform like Inreach and Spot satellite communicators.

- Satellite communicators (Spot, Inreach, etc). These have the benefit of sending messaging to other satellite devices, phones, and email, getting weather updates, and having an emergency SOS function. They are especially useful in communicating with your family/friends at home, other hunters, a pilot if you’re flying out, and getting weather forecasts if you’re out for a considerable length of time. The downsides are that they’re pricier to buy than PLB’s, require ongoing subscriptions and have message caps. The main two failings are if you aren’t diligent about keeping it charged you can potentially drain the battery enough that the emergency function can’t work, and the emergency SOS functions on these devices don’t work without an active subscription.

- Mountain Radio used to be common, however the system isn’t widely in use anymore, or possibly at all.

- Bugs: While they aren’t nearly as bad as boreal or tropical mosquitos, sandflies can be quite annoying. They’re most active at dawn and dusk, but can go right through the day if they’re feeling energetic. They prefer damp or humid areas and overcast weather. They don’t bite through clothing and respond well to insect repellents. They don’t carry disease, so being annoying is their greatest threat. Some people have very strong reactions to sandflies the first few times they’re bitten, so if you haven’t encountered sandflies before, expect large, itchy, persistent welts.

- NZ doesn’t get as much snow as other places in the world, but avalanches do happen. There’s a very limited list of forecasted areas but it’ll give you a rough idea what the danger might be in the region. https://www.avalanche.net.nz/

13. Etiquette
April is the roar (rut) for red deer so the busiest time of year in the woods. The rules are pretty similar to any public hunting areas in the world. If other people are already hunting an area, do your best to go somewhere else or give them space, but they by no means have right to an area over anyone else. If you run into someone be friendly and work out a plan so you aren’t hunting on top of each other. Same as anywhere there are some dicks out there, but if you’re being friendly and courteous, you’ve done your bit.

Wow - legend! If that doesn’t sort them out, nothing will. Almost warrants becoming a website all of its own.

Re. PLBs, maybe note they need to be 406MHz and registered for use in NZ, in case someone thinks they can bring theirs from home and just use it.

https://beacons.org.nz/create-your-account/

You are very good on the key board canross,well done.That would take me a year just to type that out.

What makes you think it didn't for me?

If nothing else comes up to change in the next week or two I'll do a final version and get the mods to sticky it instead of the drafts at the top of the page.