Thread: 22 Upgrade

I wouldn't bother spending heaps more on a 22LR to pop a few bunnies. Not necessary.

We had a team meeting couple nights ago - boys who've been together for 13-17 years. All of them have shot umpteen thousand bunnies (plus the deer, wallabies etc), and only one uses expensive brand equipment - and then occasionally. All of them tend to go for their proven efficient range/field 22s - and by heavens they know how to use them. Amongst them a number of Marlins, JWs, Savage, Zastava, Winny 69A, early CZ etc - none of them expensive - but all range tuned to really shoot. And importantly, also ok for the bumps that years shooting from truck, quad, wandering rocks/matagouri etc will bring. You will not outshoot these little rifles out to 100m by buying a $1000 hunter 22LR.

Thoroughly agree with comments above on older model 22s also - the Remingtons eg 511,512, 541, 550 Speedmaster etc - and Sportco, some Winchesters, Lithgow model 12 - lots of them. Always room in my gunsafe for them. Just be cautious re parts supply esp if using them alot. If people have a real hankering to buy a more expensive hunter 22 for themselves - that's entirely fine too. 100%. But... one thing I've learned from long decades.. for hunter rifles, price is not necessarily an indication of accuracy, of performance in the field.

Norinco JW15/27s can be very effective - deadly to 100. JW15 modelled on Brno One, and a little polishing brings out that Brno DNA. Just doing another mudz JW15 project. This is a very tidy 30 year old wooded JW15. I'll polish up bolt/trigger etc, range test/tune it thoroughly, and I expect it'll prove another sub half inch shooter (at best). At $300-350 or so it will most certainly match any $800-1000 22s in the field - and at fraction of cost.

All good fun

Personally I think Maxtoch was a great company to shill

Mudgripz post #31 sums it up nicely!
From the late 50's to the early 70's, I used a Lithgow single shot as a "field" rifle - That little gun taught me how to shoot straight and make the first shot count. I graduated from that to a Sportco 63A which I used until I gave up hunting a few years ago.
Those who know me on here also know I own some pretty nice rim fires - They're very accurate and "classy" if you're into that sort of thing but certainly not required in the field.
Even when I was young, fit and strong, I couldn't imagine carrying a 20 pound Rim X/Vudoo around the scrub chasing wallabies!

Yes - snobbery is alive and well in rimfire rifles - but those old "walnut and steel" guns are just as good , and many are better value than new .

My Winchester 320 , or Sportco 66 , or Remington 512X are my go-to bunny guns - when Im not using my shorty JW-15.

Sorry all been smashed over the weekend with the ex-cyclone, so wasn't able to get out. But bought a new scope (Bushnell Banner 2 3-9x40), and rings to replace the fixed BSA scope it had. Cause I currently don't have anyone close by to borrow a scope from.

With the suppressor, it doesn't have any markings so I'm assuming it is a bundle deal one. Any recommendations for a suppressor?

The other thing I would like to note, I haven't been able to find too many second hand 22's in the Far North. 9 listings on TM and a slim selection at H&F in Kerikeri.
I know I can buy a second hand firearm and do the dealer to dealer shipping, but I would prefer to support the local H&F cause they are pretty much it once you get this Far North

How about h&f whangerei or dargaville. Picked up some cool stuff in the dargs one

Originally Posted by blip

How about h&f whangerei or dargaville. Picked up some cool stuff in the dargs one

Go down once every 3-6 months. So might be able to have a look when I go down next. Would be awesome to know what second hand stock they had before hand

Anyone in Whangarei know roughly how the 22 section looks?

In the mean time try what youve got out. Try shooting a target with and without the suppressor on and see if that makes a difference

and try a variety of different ammo. .22 rifles can be quite choosey on ammo and something as simple as a differant brand of ammo can make a huge difference

And dont by a nice 22 buy a piece of crap. Dont want to run risk of being a rimfire snob...

There are a few to stay away from as well. Anshutz semi 22lr is one off the top of my head, they tend to snap in half and its not repairable.

Originally Posted by blip

There are a few to stay away from as well. Anshutz semi 22lr is one off the top of my head, they tend to snap in half and its not repairable.

Piece of Italian junk. What was Anschutz thinking.

Originally Posted by Dmnc6

Go down once every 3-6 months. So might be able to have a look when I go down next. Would be awesome to know what second hand stock they had before hand

Anyone in Whangarei know roughly how the 22 section looks?

Just call them and say what you want and what you want to spend. My local had guns on the safe out back that weren't in the shop that were what i wanted.

Identify your target beyond all doubt because you never miss (right?) and I'll be missed.

Norinco JW-15 are a Chinese copy of Brno. As such they are very accurate! My mate in Hawkes Bay bought one in the late 70's, early 80's and was amazed at how incredibly accurate it was.

My advice is clean it, clean it, clean it! Get a pot of JB BORE BRIGHT and scrub the bore, then follow on with the normal Number 9 or white spirits. Clean it and polish it until the bore shines like a mirror and a light shining down it resembles a lighthouse beacon. Make sure you clean inside the breach and not just the barrel. Then fully dismantle the bolt, clean and polish it inside and out. Clean the receiver and lightly oil everything until the bolt slides like a train on greased tracks.

Some people say, "Cleanliness is next to Godliness," but I say, "Cleanliness is next to accuracy!"

Inspect the bore. The rifling should be gleaming, clean, and easy to define, and easy to identify any defects. Look for corrosion of pitting. Also look for any sign of a mark which looks like and "O" Ring or docking ring part way down the rifling. If you see this defect it means a (wet or faulty) bullet, or bullets has gotten stuck and not cleared the muzzle, before another bullet was fired, which pushed the first bullet out. There will be a corresponding BULGE in the outside of the barrel. My father's Brno 581 had three such "O" Rings and bugles, thankfully the barrel didn't split! If the bore is stuffed, throw the rifle away.

Re-assemble the bolt and rifle, making sure everything is lubed and TIGHT!

The Bushnell Banner variable is a very good choice for rabbiting. Perfect! And you have eliminated one possible fault

Suppressor. I agree with the advice you have already been given. Have a gunsmith, or knowledgeable gun owner, check that the barrel is threaded true and correct. If the thread is faulty get it chopped off and re-threaded by a reputable gunsmith. Also, when using the rifle, check periodically that the suppressor hasn't come loose! My mate's did and he shot the side out of the baffles! Ammunition deposits carbon inside the suppressor. If your suppressor is a "Cheap and cheerful package deal," it probably cannot be dismantled and cleaned. Throw it away and buy a DPT modular suppressor, NZ made in Hamilton. Because the are modular they can be dismantled and cleaned in white spirits. I clean my DPT after every 150 - 200 rounds, your suppressor may NEVER have been cleaned and could be blocked! Use two pieces of car chami leather and two radiator hose clips to grip the modules whilst dismantling. This stops the modules getting dented and scratched. After cleaning, wipe dry and apply a thin layer of good gun grease to all internal surfaces and the threads. Carbon doesn't stick to grease. It will do no harm to clean the suppressor after every shoot while the carbon if soft, because, if left it sets like concrete! DPT is the only suppressor I use, they are very, very good!

Ammunition: Winchester burns the dirtiest but is fine in bolt action rifles, don't use it in semi-automatics. CCI burns the cleanest and is recommended by Ruger for use in the 10/22. Browning BPR is very good and my preferred high-velocity round.

Final note on new rifles. In 22 rimfire I have owned, or still own: Brno 581, CZ 512 (Piece of shit!), Toz made in USSR! Winchester Model 94 lever action (great fun!), Ruger 10/22, Walther KKJ, Anschutz (Model 1433 in 22 Hornet, not a rimfire), but now I have standardised my gun cabinet on Weirhrauch HW60J (there has been a model change to HW66J CH (Classic Hunter) the only difference being the 66J is factory threaded and has no iron sights). You won't find a Weirhrauch in any gun shop anywhere in the country (almost), because these are the best kept secret in the 22 rimfire (Hornet and 222 Remington) market. S.R Marston & Co Ltd in Christchurch are the NZ importers, talk to Craig about stock availability and which gun shops are hold stock, if any? They will not sell directly to the public, and most gun shops will try to sell you a Ruger, Tikka or CZ, but if you stick to your guns and insist on them getting one in for you, you will never have to buy another 22 for the rest of your life! And you can pass it on to your grandchildren. These are precision, German quality engineering. Probably around $1200 to $1400, but shop around. Reloaders Supplies Auckland got me the best price, about $400 cheaper than Hunting and Fishing! There was on on TradeMe in the past two months.

Happy shooting! Shoot straight!

Originally Posted by Hugh Shields

Norinco JW-15 are a Chinese copy of Brno. As such they are very accurate! My mate in Hawkes Bay bought one in the late 70's, early 80's and was amazed at how incredibly accurate it was.

My advice is clean it, clean it, clean it! Get a pot of JB BORE BRIGHT and scrub the bore, then follow on with the normal Number 9 or white spirits. Clean it and polish it until the bore shines like a mirror and a light shining down it resembles a lighthouse beacon. Make sure you clean inside the breach and not just the barrel. Then fully dismantle the bolt, clean and polish it inside and out. Clean the receiver and lightly oil everything until the bolt slides like a train on greased tracks.

Some people say, "Cleanliness is next to Godliness," but I say, "Cleanliness is next to accuracy!"

Inspect the bore. The rifling should be gleaming, clean, and easy to define, and easy to identify any defects. Look for corrosion of pitting. Also look for any sign of a mark which looks like and "O" Ring or docking ring part way down the rifling. If you see this defect it means a (wet or faulty) bullet, or bullets has gotten stuck and not cleared the muzzle, before another bullet was fired, which pushed the first bullet out. There will be a corresponding BULGE in the outside of the barrel. My father's Brno 581 had three such "O" Rings and bugles, thankfully the barrel didn't split! If the bore is stuffed, throw the rifle away.

Re-assemble the bolt and rifle, making sure everything is lubed and TIGHT!

The Bushnell Banner variable is a very good choice for rabbiting. Perfect! And you have eliminated one possible fault

Suppressor. I agree with the advice you have already been given. Have a gunsmith, or knowledgeable gun owner, check that the barrel is threaded true and correct. If the thread is faulty get it chopped off and re-threaded by a reputable gunsmith. Also, when using the rifle, check periodically that the suppressor hasn't come loose! My mate's did and he shot the side out of the baffles! Ammunition deposits carbon inside the suppressor. If your suppressor is a "Cheap and cheerful package deal," it probably cannot be dismantled and cleaned. Throw it away and buy a DPT modular suppressor, NZ made in Hamilton. Because the are modular they can be dismantled and cleaned in white spirits. I clean my DPT after every 150 - 200 rounds, your suppressor may NEVER have been cleaned and could be blocked! Use two pieces of car chami leather and two radiator hose clips to grip the modules whilst dismantling. This stops the modules getting dented and scratched. After cleaning, wipe dry and apply a thin layer of good gun grease to all internal surfaces and the threads. Carbon doesn't stick to grease. It will do no harm to clean the suppressor after every shoot while the carbon if soft, because, if left it sets like concrete! DPT is the only suppressor I use, they are very, very good!

Ammunition: Winchester burns the dirtiest but is fine in bolt action rifles, don't use it in semi-automatics. CCI burns the cleanest and is recommended by Ruger for use in the 10/22. Browning BPR is very good and my preferred high-velocity round.

Final note on new rifles. In 22 rimfire I have owned, or still own: Brno 581, CZ 512 (Piece of shit!), Toz made in USSR! Winchester Model 94 lever action (great fun!), Ruger 10/22, Walther KKJ, Anschutz (Model 1433 in 22 Hornet, not a rimfire), but now I have standardised my gun cabinet on Weirhrauch HW60J (there has been a model change to HW66J CH (Classic Hunter) the only difference being the 66J is factory threaded and has no iron sights). You won't find a Weirhrauch in any gun shop anywhere in the country (almost), because these are the best kept secret in the 22 rimfire (Hornet and 222 Remington) market. S.R Marston & Co Ltd in Christchurch are the NZ importers, talk to Craig about stock availability and which gun shops are hold stock, if any? They will not sell directly to the public, and most gun shops will try to sell you a Ruger, Tikka or CZ, but if you stick to your guns and insist on them getting one in for you, you will never have to buy another 22 for the rest of your life! And you can pass it on to your grandchildren. These are precision, German quality engineering. Probably around $1200 to $1400, but shop around. Reloaders Supplies Auckland got me the best price, about $400 cheaper than Hunting and Fishing! There was on on TradeMe in the past two months.

Happy shooting! Shoot straight!

Good post, but I thought the jw15 was the be all and end all of rimfires 66 is definatley a very nice rifle. I know where theres a 222, been trying to get it for ages...