Thread: Airgun Interest

Originally Posted by Bagheera

@Mintie Do you have any thoughts on torque settings for springer air rifles ?

Not really spent any time trialing that sorry, a trick to be aware of though is that some Hatsans I have come across have reverse threads on the front stock screws!

Possibly a step too techy for what most use a springer for.

My current plan is to just use the torque wrench to make sure key screws haven't come way loose and about to fall out, without gradually overtightening them week by week.
Not so much to find the best tightness for accuracy.

5 shots from 17 metres, shot in sitting position free hand, tx200 mark iii, air arms diabolo heavy.

Yup those pellets are the biz for my AA200 too, beautiful rifles but I’m also impressed with my new W50. Very different ‘feel’ to the AA action vs the Weihrauch. The trigger on the TX200 is spectacular too!

Hi has anyone used these ?
Looks like a wooden box with clay sort of stuff that catches the pellets.
Out of stock in the USA, presumably due to lockdowns.
Has anyone seen them for sale here ?



Here's a home made one on "Airgun Nation" forum. The plumbers putty looks a bit expensive $18 for 500g and hes used 12 lb (= $200 worth ??) and the Air Venturi has 10 lb of "Ballistic Putty" in it.

molders clay way cheaper

Has anyone tried using it ?

I have a similar trap that I use for shooting air pistol indoors - garage - and have used 2 x 500gm packs of the plumbers putty. Mind you I like to think
that the target zone is reasonably small :-)
I agree it's expensive but the rest of the trap was made from scraps and it is very, very quiet. I've not tried molders clay as had not
known of it till @Carbine mentioned it above.

Originally Posted by NZ_noddy

I have a similar trap that I use for shooting air pistol indoors - garage - and have used 2 x 500gm packs of the plumbers putty. Mind you I like to think
that the target zone is reasonably small :-)
I agree it's expensive but the rest of the trap was made from scraps and it is very, very quiet. I've not tried molders clay as had not
known of it till @Carbine mentioned it above.

https://www.creativeclassrooms.co.nz...lay-white.html

.

I bought a new BSA meteor in 1963, replacement for the Daisy pressed steel rifle my dad bought for me a few years previous.
The Daisy had a brass insert barrel in a pressed steel casing with end caps.
That little rifle killed many birds, I used to keep a note book of all my kills back then.
I still have the BSA, but made a pistol, of sorts, out of the Daisy. It would reside in the old Masterton tip these days. That’s the tip with the pig sty’s next to the road in, that had that annoying hump, that bounced the shit off the trailer!
The BSA has little filling left in the start of the barrel, caused by the habit of carrying a mouth full of pellet when out hunting!

Airforce talon 22 BSA magnum I think its called and h&n barracuda vs 44gal drum at 30m fired from talon

Shit..

Method
I used a break barrel, spring powered Weihrauch HW95 in 22 cal. Pellets were H&N Field Target Trophy 14.66 gr at MV 680 f/s, giving 16 ft.lb at the muzzle and 14 ft.lb at the test range of 10m.

The modelling clay was from Educational Colours Pty Ltd, Victoria AU. It is available from a variety of online retailers at $5 to $7 per 500g block. Ingredients are not disclosed but it is claimed to be non-toxic, non-drying and melts at about 70C, so it’s likely an oil based “plasticine” type material. It was tested as supplied and also mixed 3 parts by weight plasticine to 1 part dry red sand (washed) from the subsoil in my back yard.

Preliminary tests were done with planned backing materials: old dry 20mm dressed pine wood and a plastic chopping board (retired).

The clay blocks were initially trialled at 40mm thick for single shots, then reshaped to 60mm thick for 5 shot groups.

Paper targets were mounted on plastic corflute in contact with the block of clay and behind that were the plastic board and a sandbag. I used eye protection.


Result
Penetration in pine: 6mm to base of pellet. The pellet embedded in the wood.
Penetration in plastic: 1mm crater. The pellet dropped off.

Penetration in 40mm plain clay block:
One shot >42mm (right through)

Penetration in 40mm clay:sand 3:1 block:
One shot 37mm

Penetration in 60mm pure clay block:
5 shots >60mm (right through)

Penetration in 60mm clay:sand 3:1 block:
5 Shots 45mm


Illustrations

01 EC brand white modelling clay



02 Cut clay used for 3:1 sand block



03 125 g red sand



04 Pine block



05 Plastic chopping board


06 One shot into pure clay showing the chamber flag used to measure the penetration depth



07 The back of the 40mm clay block showing full depth penetration



08 Pellet from 40mm clay showing the dome flattened by hitting the plastic back board
Corflute and clay have been wiped off, leaving the red target paper embedded.



09 60mm pure clay block test setup



10 Back of pure clay block after 5 shots



11 Pellet marks on plastic board through 60mm of pure clay



11A 5 pellets recovered from the 60mm pure clay block



12 Clay:sand 3:1 block. One shot at 10m.



13 Back of the 40mm clay:sand block showing the pellet didn’t go right through.



14 Pellet recovered from clay:sand block showing abrasion of the head



15 Clay:sand thick block setup



16 Clay sand block 5 shot group front of block showing some crumbling



17 Clay:sand block showing penetration depth
5 shot at 10m range. 45mm penetration



Conclusions
Thick clay, perhaps 100mm, is needed to stop heavy pellets like these, specially in a close group on the same target.
Wood captures pellets well.
Plastic stops pellets well but could be prone to ricochet.
It is quite hard to work the sand/clay mix by hand and it would be difficult to press back into shape without leaving voids or crumbly spaces.

And there I was, in the 60's wondering just how far my Gecado 23 would shoot if I pointed it up in the air...