Thread: Airgun Interest

Shit..

Airforce talon 22 BSA magnum I think its called and h&n barracuda vs 44gal drum at 30m fired from talon

Method
I used a break barrel, spring powered Weihrauch HW95 in 22 cal. Pellets were H&N Field Target Trophy 14.66 gr at MV 680 f/s, giving 16 ft.lb at the muzzle and 14 ft.lb at the test range of 10m.

The modelling clay was from Educational Colours Pty Ltd, Victoria AU. It is available from a variety of online retailers at $5 to $7 per 500g block. Ingredients are not disclosed but it is claimed to be non-toxic, non-drying and melts at about 70C, so it’s likely an oil based “plasticine” type material. It was tested as supplied and also mixed 3 parts by weight plasticine to 1 part dry red sand (washed) from the subsoil in my back yard.

Preliminary tests were done with planned backing materials: old dry 20mm dressed pine wood and a plastic chopping board (retired).

The clay blocks were initially trialled at 40mm thick for single shots, then reshaped to 60mm thick for 5 shot groups.

Paper targets were mounted on plastic corflute in contact with the block of clay and behind that were the plastic board and a sandbag. I used eye protection.


Result
Penetration in pine: 6mm to base of pellet. The pellet embedded in the wood.
Penetration in plastic: 1mm crater. The pellet dropped off.

Penetration in 40mm plain clay block:
One shot >42mm (right through)

Penetration in 40mm clay:sand 3:1 block:
One shot 37mm

Penetration in 60mm pure clay block:
5 shots >60mm (right through)

Penetration in 60mm clay:sand 3:1 block:
5 Shots 45mm


Illustrations

01 EC brand white modelling clay



02 Cut clay used for 3:1 sand block



03 125 g red sand



04 Pine block



05 Plastic chopping board


06 One shot into pure clay showing the chamber flag used to measure the penetration depth



07 The back of the 40mm clay block showing full depth penetration



08 Pellet from 40mm clay showing the dome flattened by hitting the plastic back board
Corflute and clay have been wiped off, leaving the red target paper embedded.



09 60mm pure clay block test setup



10 Back of pure clay block after 5 shots



11 Pellet marks on plastic board through 60mm of pure clay



11A 5 pellets recovered from the 60mm pure clay block



12 Clay:sand 3:1 block. One shot at 10m.



13 Back of the 40mm clay:sand block showing the pellet didn’t go right through.



14 Pellet recovered from clay:sand block showing abrasion of the head



15 Clay:sand thick block setup



16 Clay sand block 5 shot group front of block showing some crumbling



17 Clay:sand block showing penetration depth
5 shot at 10m range. 45mm penetration



Conclusions
Thick clay, perhaps 100mm, is needed to stop heavy pellets like these, specially in a close group on the same target.
Wood captures pellets well.
Plastic stops pellets well but could be prone to ricochet.
It is quite hard to work the sand/clay mix by hand and it would be difficult to press back into shape without leaving voids or crumbly spaces.

And there I was, in the 60's wondering just how far my Gecado 23 would shoot if I pointed it up in the air...

If you're wondering what potential your airgun has, use jsb
medium weight for .177 and RWS barracudas for .22.
Yet to see any airgun that hates those.

I used to practice shooting tiny groups everyday with my AA200HC springer. Wouldnt be happy unless it 5shot cloverleafed at 40y at least once a session (sitting off the knee in std FT position).

One idea for a backstop is to make a small box with two or three layers of Coreflute lining the front face. Coreflute is partly self-healing when projectiles go through. You'd fill the box with sand or similar which would prevent any voids for pellets to get through, something that clay clearly isn't good at. I haven't tried it but I'd guess 50mm of sand would stop any pellets, even from a PCP.

Nice idea for a pellet trap.

Originally Posted by Inder

Nice idea for a pellet trap.

Attachment 187537

Brilliant idea. I wouldn't use the wood, I'd just use the lid and cut a bit of the lid away.

It's said that if its too light, the spring / piston slams down too fast and things will break.

What is "too light" supposed to be for a 177 or a 22 cal ?

The cross bedding screws at the far end of the fore end are coming a little loose so I think I’ll put a drop of loctite on them.

To remind myself which one to use I consulted google and found this on airgun 101.
https://www.airgun101.com/fx-airguns...-loctite-guide

I have been using this without any issue on all my airguns since last few years. It is supposed to be medium strength but I haven't got any chance to open the screws

Originally Posted by Inder

I have been using this without any issue on all my airguns since last few years. It is supposed to be medium strength but I haven't got any chance to open the screws

Attachment 204371

I use the the full strength loctite.
I only use it on the end few threads, if I can see the end of screw where it threads in I'll screw it in till just about all way in then put a small drop on let sit for a few secs and then finish screwing in. I haven't had an issue when it comes to undoing them. I wouldn't coat the whole thread.
A gun tuner actually recommended nail polish. Which makes sence too. Haven't tried that yet.

Ive got an older gamo model -trigger unit has a buggered spring so i took it apart .someone told me of a guy out kaiapoi canterbury way who dealt in these things -anyone know the details .some attention to the piston /airchambewr might also be required .can thse be honed??

Originally Posted by kotuku

Ive got an older gamo model -trigger unit has a buggered spring so i took it apart .someone told me of a guy out kaiapoi canterbury way who dealt in these things -anyone know the details .some attention to the piston /airchambewr might also be required .can thse be honed??

try Vaughans in Upper hut for parts. He's the gamo importer and may have the part equivalent or even an old rifle to get parts off.
whats the bore damage that it needs honing?
If your just giving it a dam good clean jb non embeding bore paste seems to be a well recommended product.
You can probly get a replacement barrel if you wanted. Again try vaughans.

I have a diana model 25 is great condition for sale..... woodwork is 10/10,metal work is 9.5/10 there is one of the main screws been replaced and the rear sight is missing,its a model that was drilled n tapped for scope mounts,it even says that on action...
its in the for sale section if any interest ,feel free to tell me if Im miles off with price,was not sure at all what it was worth...collectable maybe.useable definately.