Those in stock jp items are a much better option
They clamp and squeeze to the barrel, rather than use grub screws to pull down and push against the barrel, which I would have thought was a no no?
Using TT2 on my mobele
Those in stock jp items are a much better option
They clamp and squeeze to the barrel, rather than use grub screws to pull down and push against the barrel, which I would have thought was a no no?
Using TT2 on my mobele
grubscrews work fine on the low-pro I've got now, it's got dimples in the barrel for them though
Accuracy wise which barrell better for longer shooting
1. 20 “ Chrome moly HBAR 1:9 twist
2. 18", 1:8 match grade stainless heavy barrel
Sort of talking about the barrel only not about accessorries etc as I realise the best barrel on a piece of rubbish is still not gonna hit the barn..
"This is my Flag... Ill only have the one ..
In theory, the 18" will be more accurate being stainless and being 1/8 twist means your able to stabilize heavier bullets, then you can use 77gr sierra match king rounds. The 20" will gain at a a guess 80fps extra over the 18"
Heavy barrels are awful, the gun will balance like shit and weigh a ton
I wouldn't buy 1:9 as it limits your projectile choice and I wouldn't go longer than 18" especially if planning on using a suppressor
Thanks so 18" 1.8 twist definitely and Ill have to decide Chrome or Moly.
Cheers for the input..
"This is my Flag... Ill only have the one ..
As Gimp said try to avoid heavy profile barrels unless you planning on firing a lot quickly and need the extra accuracy, they are heavy. Having said that I would choose 1/8 twist Hbar over a 1/9 twist but that's my opinion.
Stainless is arguably more accurate, chrome lined lasts longer, you'll never shoot enough to notice the difference in life, if you get a decent chrome lined one it will shoot perfectly well though
Don't get a heavy contour, the rifle will be awful for offhand shooting. If you get a heavy one you can get it turned down I guess.
1:7 preferred in my opinion but yeah
Heavier barrels are more bearable the shorter they are and the lighter the handguard you use. I think the profile that NEA uses is the most sensible for an all round rifle, but for a carbine I'm a fan of the M4 profile. The 20" HBAR's are terrible. Get a Govt profile of you go for a 20".
My pick is match stainless, then cromoly, then chrome lined cromoly for accuracy. For lifespan it would be chrome lined, then stainless, then cromoly.
Remember if you are getting it in parts, and buy a barrel and not a complete gun, make sure the barrel is head spaced to whatever bolt you end up with
My 2 cents is
Stainless 1 in 8 cryo 18 inch
wylde chamber
Rifle length adj gas
Really effective comp if not restricted by class
Fluting waste of time with regard to what it would achieve
And a big fat bull barrel like wise
Using TT2 on my mobele
Bell and Carlson thumbhole stock. I know they look weird by would they be ok for a little while till swap it out for some thing else maybe magpull adjustable type ?
Thinking I may buy this gun ????
"This is my Flag... Ill only have the one ..
Collapsible stocks are E cat - since your looking on trademe I'm guessing you'll be buying an A Cat rifle so you better stick with a fixed stock. You can always permanently fix the stock though to keep it A Cat.
Last time I spoke with the arms officer he said even pinning an adjustable stock is illegal. I was enquiring about one for my SKS.
We all know how the law has been interpreted (or rather ignored) in the past, so whether this is the truth or not is a different matter. It's what I was told.
operating the safety with a bell and carlson stock is not that easy.
an A2 stock and hoague or magpul pistolgrip is a million times better, but they are both cheep. If its a good deal buy it
that free float tube is the ones I like
Bookmarks