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Thread: ATEC Suppressor experience, problems, and troubleshooting thread

  1. #16
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    West Melton, Christchurch
    Posts
    21
    Hey Tibo,

    H2 to H3 change is minor, just the shape and angle of the gas ports inside the baffle modules was improved based on their constant totooing over there. So just a slight overall performance improvement with the main outcome was rather improved first round pop. Right when it came out, the iso mil std testing regime was updated which created confusion around comparing older generation products to new generation products. There is a couple of H2's on the market which are a tad cheaper as there was a mnfr price increase at that same time too (how 2020's f%#k $ake lol).

    Cheers
    Jbrad.
    Stocky, tibo and TimC like this.

  2. #17
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Christchurch
    Posts
    1,654
    Optima50 module...

    Name:  20240919_134236.jpg
Views: 145
Size:  1.23 MB

    (One very dirty) MegaH2 module...

    Name:  20240919_134138.jpg
Views: 144
Size:  1.01 MB

    Got the tools for doing up the A-Locks properly here.
    TimC likes this.
    Resident 6.5 Grendel aficionado.

  3. #18
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2024
    Location
    Palmerston North
    Posts
    8
    Hey guys, I'm looking at getting an ATEC for my model 7, 300 wsm and was after some advice on the differences between the optima 40, 45, 50, and the H3 and what option of those you would prefer

  4. #19
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Waikato
    Posts
    2,095
    Thinking about the Optima, it looks as if it has some muzzle brake function inside but if you want muzzle jump/ twist control you need the brake end cap ?

  5. #20
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Christchurch
    Posts
    1,654
    @JoshB, the difference between the 40, 45, and 50 is diameter (and therefore volume). For a 300wsm I'd suggest the Optima50 or the H3. Feel free to PM me.

    @Bagheera, yes you need the brake end cap to get additional recoil mitigation. That's because no matter what trickery you do inside of a suppressor, the gas is part of a closed system and the forces will cancel out internally. E.g. if you have a brake inside a suppressor, some gas gets redirected backwards, counteracting recoil from the bullet. That gas then impinges on the back of the suppressor, increasing the recoil again... It's when the gas exits the suppressor where it becomes an open system. If it's venting forward, it's adding to recoil. If it can be redicted back/out, it can give you a net reduction in recoil.
    dannyb and TimC like this.
    Resident 6.5 Grendel aficionado.

 

 

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