Thread: Best hold for ultralight rifle

Looking at shooting the Montana off spartan bipod and sighting in left hand on top of scope seemed to work well.

Any tips/tricks for shooting ultra lights, esp off a bipod? Does a break/suppressor help by reducing muzzle jump (setting aside recoil).






Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Firm grip on the fore end, is my go to. But I’d same for ultralight or standard weight stocks, so maybe just me. Brake or suppressor will help with muzzle jump, but brake design (radial vs side ported) may also give better or lesser jump benefit. Nice straight comb on the Montana stock which should direct recoil straight back into shoulder rather then encouraging any upwards deflection.

There will be plenty of opinions, which means there’s no absolutely one right answer. One opinion is effectively stated by ‘The Real Gunsmith’ on YouTube, titled ‘bench resting’ or somesuch. I also have a Montana 308, and if not planning to use it exclusively off a bipod I’ve found a firm hold on the forend is best at replicating field conditions. Yes you will be affected by pulse movement in your hand and won’t get benchrest precision but having a light rifle jumping around off a rest isn’t ideal either. The Montana stock configuration and the trigger are a magical combination for offhand shooting in my hands, not what you’d expect from an ultralight.

I don't plan on using a bipod on mine. Having a bipod, and all the other stuff hanging off it like we usually do kind of defeats the point of a light handy rifle.

I didn't buy a light gun so I can add more "stuff" to it.
Apart from suppressor I have gone back to low powered variable and shooting over a rest (my daypack for example)

Originally Posted by mikee

I don't plan on using a bipod on mine. Having a bipod, and all the other stuff hanging off it like we usually do kind of defeats the point of a light handy rifle.

I didn't buy a light gun so I can add more "stuff" to it.
Apart from suppressor I have gone back to low powered variable and shooting over a rest (my daypack for example)

What he said!

The Real Gunsmith - https://youtu.be/6-Ds3YCJhWI

Nathan Foster's page (NZ) https://www.ballisticstudies.com/Kno...at+Forend.html

Some thoughts

Get the basics right, like the mentioned firm grip on forend and pressing the gun back into your shoulder, firing each shot off with as identical hold and grip as you can.

A suppressor / brake may or may not help the gun shoot more accurately, but it will change your point of impact. It all comes down to trying it out on the range. A break or suppressor helps more by softening recoil and thus reducing shooter flinch I suspect - so a pleasant gun ends up being a more "accurate" gun. Which is why .22LR is a great practice round.

The reduction in muzzle climb is not that helpful, at least for accuracy, as the main part of the muzzle climb that a suppressor / brake reduces is the climb that occurs AFTER the bullet has exited and the fast gases rocket out. Any added weight to the end of the barrel will of course reduce climb from any source.

Your big scope put on a higher mount along with a cheek riser pad may put the barrel more in line with your shoulder and so reduce climb... and maybe remind you of an AR you may once have owned.

Originally Posted by mikee

I don't plan on using a bipod on mine. Having a bipod, and all the other stuff hanging off it like we usually do kind of defeats the point of a light handy rifle.

I didn't buy a light gun so I can add more "stuff" to it.
Apart from suppressor I have gone back to low powered variable and shooting over a rest (my daypack for example)

This is exactly what I have done with mine. Bipods are a pita to shoot well with lightweight rifles anyway. Surprising how well I can shoot out to 400ish even just with a 6 power

I shoot my Carbon stocked Sako 270 WSM (approximately 3.5kg) off a Javlin and I load up the bipod with a good shoulder leaning into the butt and my trigger finger had gripping the pistol grip.
I don't touch the rifle with my off hand at all.
I can consistently shoot this rifle out to 600 yards on steel and have taken animals out to 409 yards
my rifle is braked however still not enough too maintain sight picture during recoil, this hasn't been an issue.
this is what works for me, I note a lot of others use 2 hands.

Keep shot strings slow and deliberate allowing time for the barrel to cool between shots. Pencil barrels heat up rapidly and start to disperse shots.
These aren't range rifles they are designed for one or two shots from a cold barrel at a time.

Def use two hands...

If you aren't going to suppress the rifle definitely go muzzle brake, your going to need hearing protection anyway.

Righto - I'll practice on the 400/600 gong. Daypack rest and spartan bipod (weighs almost nothing). I'm a fan of brakes so may just put a Ti one on the end of current barrel.

Lightweight and Premier Scopes seldom are in the same sentence.

Not so much a perfect hold

Trick is having the same hold everytime you shoot.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk