Thread: Bits to fit a Wheeler F.A.T. wrench

Originally Posted by Jacobite

I'd heard you shouldn't use a anti-lock paste/grease that contains copper as it could lead to corrosion of the threads? Is that correct or have I been put wrong?

I work in Marine manufacturing industry. copper anti-seize is not really an issue unless you are going to be near the sea. It can cause galvanic corrosion if using a cheap copper grease with potential for some aluminum in the grease, and a blued action. But a good quality copper grease should have some molybdenum in it, maybe even some teflon. I use Rocol (as I get it from work) and it contains Moly and graphite. No Aluminium.

Originally Posted by marky123

Like on a suppressor then???

My suppressor has a delrin bushing. So plastic contact to the steel.
On my 22 suppressor, I use PTFE grease on the threads

Sorry back on the subject of anti-lock grease, after some looking around online at various american forums and a trip to Repco I picked up some Castrol Spheerol LMM. It's a Molybdenum Disulphide (whatever that means) with no copper in it and no graphite I could see. That's apparently what you want, at least for AR barrel nuts. At $15 for 450grams it's not going break the bank and that should last me a lifetime. And my kids. And their kids. Also if anybody in the Wellington region needs any flick me a PM and come and take a handful.

Thanks guys for all the advice here, I've picked up a lot of info..

Everyone is talking about anti-sieze being intended to make it easy to undo a thread later, like for your suppressor.

Going back to the torque wrench, would grease be good to make sure you get a smooth screw up and consistent torque / tension ? Or is just a smear of oil the story ?

I suppose you can check your scope screws or bedding screws haven't come loose using the torque wrench without having to loosen them off ?
Or do you get a bit of binding and the wrench clicks off even thoough its actually basically loose and just jammed with a bit of grit or dried hard scunge. So, do you need to loosen screws before you recheck the torque ?

I've seen a "micrometer wrench" which shows the torque as you use it before it clicks off. I wonder if you can see the torque fall away as you start to strip the thread ?

Just be aware that there is quite a difference torqueing screws dry versus torqueing screws lubricated/”wet”. It is possible to over torque/over tighten if lubing. A very rough rule of thumb is to factor your dry setting by .75 if lubing. There are tables that give more acurate settings. If you are using Loctite on the thread that is also considered to be lubing.

Originally Posted by Bagheera

Thanks guys for all the advice here, I've picked up a lot of info..

Everyone is talking about anti-sieze being intended to make it easy to undo a thread later, like for your suppressor.

Going back to the torque wrench, would grease be good to make sure you get a smooth screw up and consistent torque / tension ? Or is just a smear of oil the story ?

I suppose you can check your scope screws or bedding screws haven't come loose using the torque wrench without having to loosen them off ?
Or do you get a bit of binding and the wrench clicks off even thoough its actually basically loose and just jammed with a bit of grit or dried hard scunge. So, do you need to loosen screws before you recheck the torque ?

I've seen a "micrometer wrench" which shows the torque as you use it before it clicks off. I wonder if you can see the torque fall away as you start to strip the thread ?

Yes grease is fine, better than oil, both better than none. Put on the thread, and the base of the head, were in contacts the material you are clamping, if not lubed at this point, you can get galling and metal transfer, that give a false torque reading.
it is the torque, "streach" in the bolt that holds everything tight.
stripping threads, likely you wont notice it as a reading on the torque wrench, but you will feel it, if anything that is getting harder to tighten, starts to turn more easy, stop right away, its starting to, or has stripped,
Clean threads, and components, correctly lubed and torqued, very really, give any problem,

Originally Posted by zimmer

Just be aware that there is quite a difference torqueing screws dry versus torqueing screws lubricated/”wet”. It is possible to over torque/over tighten if lubing. A very rough rule of thumb is to factor your dry setting by .75 if lubing. There are tables that give more acurate settings. If you are using Loctite on the thread that is also considered to be lubing.

Zimmer is correct here, and I have seen instructions that say torque dry, or a reading for both, follow instructions. Dry torque spec's, is uncommon.
I have never seen any firearm, screw or bolts that aren't oiled from new,