Thread: Blown suppressor baffle - Launched 20m downrange

Stainless steel and aluminum don't get on very well, especially when moisture is added, I'm not sure what the gases and carbon add to the mix but suspect this is why they are quite confident in the corrosion theory

I have 5 DPTs the oldest is nearly 8 years old and seized together and never ever cleaned (never read the instructions). It has in excess of 5k shots thru it. Works perfectly still. The other four all have less than 500 each thru them and still come apart easily as they are cleand as per the referenced instructions after every use. In any case I see them a bit like barrels onsumables).

For what they are/cost and how they work/perform I dont think you can go past DPT as a suppressor.
I also have a couple A-Techs as well for comparison

I have twice now had a couple of stuck baffles. Just get some masking tape and tape the baffles together either side of the stuck one to allow a better grip. (no tools)

I regularly clean mine and never leave it on the gun when not in use.
Wipe the insides with a rag sprayed with some crc and also put some lithium based grease on the threads .. also dont over tighten the baffles when the suppressor is re-assembled after cleaning.
I also regularly check for any loosened off baffles ...

Nickel or copper based antisiezes have a lot more thickness to them than most lithium soap greases. Might as well just use a bog standard nlgi2 wheel bearing grease... Most suppressors are designed that they work up tight rather than loose (a slight twist on the baffle holes and muzzle break component). Often times just shooting them is enough to tighten the buggers to the point you can't get them apart by hand.

The only can I've ever had to clean has been on .22's as an aside, for some reason those are generally really mucky in comparison to bigger calibers. I'm sure some pro culler working out of a helo will be along shortly to correct me there but all of the cans I currently own are sealed and none of them have ever been cleaned (just repaired or replaced when the corrosion killed them).

It's interesting that further development in the NZ suppressor market seems to have more or less stalled for the last 8 or 10 years. Not much noticeable change

Wasnt a nz supressor company denied the opportunity of a military contract. Perfect for r&d jobs etc?

Its not just suppressor development that has stalled sadly.

Originally Posted by distant stalker

Stainless steel and aluminum don't get on very well, especially when moisture is added, I'm not sure what the gases and carbon add to the mix but suspect this is why they are quite confident in the corrosion theory

There is no stainless steel in my baffle that failed.
I think dpt just looked at my first pic of the dirty suppressor exterior (just a residue from in the bike inner tube and cleaned off easily once I was home ) and said it must be corrosion. Corrosion is just their easy out option.
I think the baffle failed prematurely due to fatigue.
Either way I'll keep shooting it as it is now. Maybe I'll buy another one later, probably I'll change brand. They couldn't even offer a small discount for a replacement part after that bad experience. Definitely not the customer service i was hoping for.

Originally Posted by Roarless20

There is no stainless steel in my baffle that failed.
I think dpt just looked at my first pic of the dirty suppressor exterior (just a residue from in the bike inner tube and cleaned off easily once I was home ) and said it must be corrosion. Corrosion is just their easy out option.
I think the baffle failed prematurely due to fatigue.
Either way I'll keep shooting it as it is now. Maybe I'll buy another one later, probably I'll change brand. They couldn't even offer a small discount for a replacement part after that bad experience. Definitely not the customer service i was hoping for.

looking at the picture its not just the outside that is dirty mate.

Corrosion and fatigue go hand in hand with aluminium alloys.

I wonder if a bike inner tube sleeve traps moisture more than otherwise and promotes corrosion?

Originally Posted by gimp

I wonder if a bike inner tube sleeve traps moisture more than otherwise and promotes corrosion?

Yeah probably the case. I usually roll it back to the middle from each end when the suppressor gets wet hunting, though the only suppressor that gets wet is my 6.5prc suppressor. I'll keep a closer eye on it from now.

Hi all,

This discussion perfectly highlights the importance of the maintenance instructions. We engrave on our suppressors: "Read instructions before use." The reason behind this is simple yet crucial. Each time a bullet is fired, a small amount of moisture is left inside the suppressor. This is exacerbated when used in the rain, leading to moisture accumulation. When this moisture interacts with gunpowder, it produces ammonia, which can gradually damage the alloy of the suppressor. However, a quick disassemble and spray of WD40 inside the suppressor after every day out shooting can significantly mitigate these moisture-related issues.

We had hoped to examine the suppressor firsthand to definitively determine the cause of failure and to inspect for any additional signs of corrosion that could cause future issues. Unfortunately, upon contacting the customer, we learned that he had already machined the baffle out in his lathe and was not keen on returning the suppressor for our evaluation. Based on the images we received, it appeared that corrosion, likely due to the described issues, led to the failure, and that is not covered under the extended warranty. The customer's request for a discount on a new stainless steel baffle was declined as we were unable to assess the suppressor directly. It's worth noting that the suppressor in question is between 5-7 years old, and our warranty does not extend to baffles over this period due to their susceptibility to wear and tear. Nonetheless, we offer replacement alloy baffles for $50.

Despite this, we remain willing and eager to examine the suppressor to ensure its overall integrity. Getting the suppressor back would allow us to conduct a thorough check and provide peace of mind regarding its condition.

Cheers
Darren

Originally Posted by Tahr

How do you clean the one piece suppressors like Hardy's.

I've seen a hardies that blew on a 280, pretty messy and no user salvageable bits. Hardies weren't interested even though the remains were sent to them, so a dpt replacement was fitted

if its seized solid then a 50/50 mix of kero and atf is the best penetrating oil i have used