Thread: Brass on bolt face

I assume the Hornady case is on the right, based on the PPU/Highland anneal mark.
Bit of a bulge in the case side wall.
'Could be' pressure related and that might fit in with the brass on the bolt face?
Maybe just shoot the Highland and see if its still an issue?

Originally Posted by dogmatix

I assume the Hornady case is on the right, based on the PPU/Highland anneal mark.
Bit of a bulge in the case side wall.
'Could be' pressure related and that might fit in with the brass on the bolt face?
Maybe just shoot the Highland and see if its still an issue?

Yep Hornady on the right. I'll try that next time I'm at the range cheers

Nothing in your pics suggests any pressure issue to me. If all the brass looks similar the factory ammo loads should be perfectly safe.
I'm guessing the transfer of brass residues to the bolt face is somehow related to the parkerising.

yeah, I can't see any signs of pressure in those photos even the primers look perfect no flatting

Originally Posted by Dan88

Hi all


I haven't seen this on any of my other rifles, just wondering if this is normal?

Attachment 263820

There’s brass on the front of the extractor claw so its likely the rough parkerising rubbing some off.

Wiser people might have a better idea but perhaps polishing the bolt face with steel wool might smooth it down a bit and restore headspace closer to the original ? What about the bearing surfaces of the bolt lugs - are they shiny now ?

I really don't think cerakote will throw out the head space

Cerakote can be applied in thicknesses ranging from 0.00635-0.0254 mm, and thus has minimal impact on the dimensional accuracy of a part. For parts within a functional assembly, a thick coating could disrupt delicate tolerances and create friction.

Originally Posted by akaroa1

I really don't think cerakote will throw out the head space

Cerakote can be applied in thicknesses ranging from 0.00635-0.0254 mm, and thus has minimal impact on the dimensional accuracy of a part. For parts within a functional assembly, a thick coating could disrupt delicate tolerances and create friction.

When i looked into parkerizing the rifle I checked about machined surfaces and tolerances, from my research it didn't effect any tolerances, and may increase the smoothness of the action as the surface is microscopecly etches the surface and holds oil in the pores.

What's amusing is you would have to try really hard to get two factory loads further apart in power,pressure,velocity. Highland/ppu is mild and the other is borderline hotrodded. Give bolt a clean and carry on,nothing to see here.

Not uncommon on a fresh bluing job or parkerising ect
More so if you hit them in the bead blast tank first
Nothing to worry about
Definitely not enough to change headspace
Or firing pin protrusion

Just when you fire case blows out to fit chamber, bolt face ect
And when you open the action (Mauser 98?) the throw of the bolt when you lift
Handle rubs the 2 surfaces together discolouring the new finish
Bit of solvent or brake cleaner on a cloth and a good rub
It usually comes straight off

Same thing will happen if you rub a brass case on the outside of the rifle
Or use Goldie locks to clean rust off bluing with out damaging the finish
Leaves brass residue

Just FYI with a rifle using a Mauser style claw extractor only ever feed from the mag
Never single feed direct to the chamber it will break the extractor claw
And getting bloody hard to find them now

https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesa....home.search.0

great invention for cleaning bolt faces etc. i mostly use them for scraping lacquer off circuit boards

Nope. In my honest opinion that rifle has shuffled off his mortal coil. It's snuffed it.
The best thing you could do is send that obvious death trap to me to dispose of
Don't want to see you get hurt or anything

Originally Posted by csmiffy

Nope. In my honest opinion that rifle has shuffled off his mortal coil. It's snuffed it.
The best thing you could do is send that obvious death trap to me to dispose of
Don't want to see you get hurt or anything

Hahah very kind of you! I quiet like it if I'm honest, tho it's fairly hefty to carry.
One day I would like to get a .243 or .308 to match it.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

What's amusing is you would have to try really hard to get two factory loads further apart in power,pressure,velocity. Highland/ppu is mild and the other is borderline hotrodded. Give bolt a clean and carry on,nothing to see here.

The Highland came with it when I brought it, and I can't rember why I went with the Hornady stuff, probably lowest price on the day

Originally Posted by Dan88

I parkerized all the metal work on the rifle as the blueing was in terrible shape when I brought it, so it's all dull metal.
Was wondering if that was why it's taking so much brass on

Clean face and claw with steel wool, then treat the same area with a small 1" square piece of 1000grit paper as you watch the news. This won't go through the case hardening, but you'll get a shiny bolt face that won't easily rust or take up brass.