Thread: BSA 12 15 TO .22 HORNET CONVERSION

hi all,
Is there any one doing this conversion?
Anyone had it done recently?
Cheers

@gundoc ; should be able to steer you in the right direction
@gundoc

Gunworks re-chambered one to 22mag for me and my 22 hornet Vickers conversion is very accurate even after maybe 35 years and 100's of rounds.
I think from memory it was done by Rod Woods but maybe Paul Manders.

The breech block has to be converted to centrefire by annealing, boring out the face and fitting a hardened bushing and fitting an offset pin in the striker. The back of the action is bored to 3/8" to accept a long custom-made reamer, and the chamber and extractor are cut together. Easy enough for someone with skills.

Originally Posted by Tedz50

Gunworks re-chambered one to 22mag for me and my 22 hornet Vickers conversion is very accurate even after maybe 35 years and 100's of rounds.
I think from memory it was done by Rod Woods but maybe Paul Manders.

If it was done by me it will have my name and date or WCG (Woods Custom Guns) and date.

Nice, ill try them tomorrow.
Somehow ive accumulated 2 vickers and at least 4 bsa's

Got a reply to my email to gunworks this afternoon,
Not a job they will do, beyound there expertise according to amanda,
So no go there

Try Zac, out Rangiora way, he learnt his trade from the best.

Wouldnt mind something like this myself eventually. @Peteforskeet might have to hit you up for aone of your spares one day.
Suggest gunworks want straight out production machining not old school one off gunsmithing

Originally Posted by gundoc

The breech block has to be converted to centrefire by annealing, boring out the face and fitting a hardened bushing and fitting an offset pin in the striker. The back of the action is bored to 3/8" to accept a long custom-made reamer, and the chamber and extractor are cut together. Easy enough for someone with skills.

@gundoc by fitting the hardened bush you didn't need to re harden the whole block when finished ?

I have a 1215 here and might drop the parts out and look at what's involved

Or I could modify the block to CF and colour case harden it and get the same result

Originally Posted by akaroa1

@gundoc by fitting the hardened bush you didn't need to re harden the whole block when finished ?

Correct, the blocks were only case-hardened anyway. Once annealed, reassemble into the closed position and drop a hardened centre-pointed rod down the bore to mark the exact centre of the firing pin hole, then bore and thread it square to the breech face. The bushing should have a 1.5 - 1.8mm hole for the firing pin and two stub holes for a tightening key.

Hi rod,
Is another option to alter the height of the fingers on the end of the cocking lever, that lift the breechblock to height?
The downside being that the face of the breechblock wouldnt be dead square to the centreline of the bore anymore, i think by 1 degree?

Originally Posted by Husky1600

Try Zac, out Rangiora way, he learnt his trade from the best.

I will send zac an email

Originally Posted by Peteforskeet

Hi rod,
Is another option to alter the height of the fingers on the end of the cocking lever, that lift the breechblock to height?
The downside being that the face of the breechblock wouldnt be dead square to the centreline of the bore anymore, i think by 1 degree?

The firing pin is at 12 o'clock
So the block needs to be lowered and the breech block face will not be square to the breech