Thread: BSA CF2 ?? Brought it !!! Pic heavy

For me it’s more a longer range bunny buster than a deer gun although no one is saying that it’s not capable hell there’s been heaps of deer shot with 222 and he’ll even 22lr has shot plenty of deer
50gn even better these days with the choice of bonded or mono bullets is fine but I reckon a faster twist and 65gn bullets would just make a fantastic cal even better that’s all i was saying

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

bunnies out to 250ish shouldnt need dial up...nothing wrong with good old Kentucky windage once you get to know how much to hold over,it just adds to the challenge. Ive shot bunnies at over 200 with brothers trebly they didnt know where first low shot came from so didnt move far.....didnt move at all after 2nd one.

i can appreciate why you like a challenge MickyD using Kentucky windage, its definitely old school which is kinda cool.

Your giving up some longer range potential & first round hits are going to go down as the range gets out there but if your into simplicity its not a bad tradeoff . . . my Sako .222 has an older steel tube 6X Khales which makes a great walkabout rifle . . makes a nice change from some of the heavy barrel varmint rigs i carry around.

Just another note on the trigger guards. Have now gotten the first coat on etching primer. They came up good.
Now for the top coat. I've sent the king screws and floor plate in to my gunmaker to get blued. I'm looking for a nice hi dark blue.
Was looking at the Creakote in a dark blue for a more longer lasting effect. Might be the go. I'll see how these come up first and then make my choice..

Might have to start a BSA thread

@Sideshow, wet day here today so I have dropped the barrel / action out of the stock. Trigger guard off and sanded and getting ready for etch.
My trigger guard isn't nice and smooth like yours as there is brazing and other non - original bits for the addition of the drop out mag but it will still be better than what it was.
Stock sanded and the worse of the bruises steamed out and sanded.
First coat of stock oil done. Fine wire wool sanding tomorrow and just repeat the process till I am happy.
I can't get all the sharp dings and gouges out but that's ok , a few battle scars adds character.

@viper make sure you take plenty of time between coats with the oiling. You need at least seven coats. Oh if you didn't know don't oil the checkering!
I used 1200grit paper on the trigger guard to get it nice and smooth. Then used a degreaser before painting to get rid of any oil residues left from fingers etc. The spray will only fill so many holes and scratch. Don't be scared to rub out any blemishes before the final coats.

The spare one with the rough machine marks

The pair all sanded up and degreased

First coats of etching primer on

Originally Posted by Sideshow

@viper make sure you take plenty of time between coats with the oiling. You need at least seven coats. Oh if you didn't know don't oil the checkering!

What oil are you using? I've done a handful of stocks and always used tru-oil, but does look a bit varnishy to me.
One thing I read recently was they used a Danish oil to get the deep classic oil looking finish and only then finish off with the tru-oil for the last couple of coats.

@csmiffy , I ve used the true oil system and a rifle stock wax on a .22 I have, came out great and shows no sign of tear. You are right though it's a little glossy.
This time round I have found Scherell's Schaftol. German gunstock product.
It came in clear or dark, I went for dark.
Two coats in and it's starting to slowly colour up, looks nice so far, not to dark and grain starting to pop.
Will do between 7 - 14 plus coats, rub down with clean linen cloth and ultra fine steel wool between coats.
A very small amount seems to go a long way.
May post photo's once done, it not going to be a pristine super model of a stock , more a pretty working girl with nice make up

@viper nice stuff. I like the idea of putting a red tint into the stock, but also doing a bit of repair work so probably should stick to the darker stuff.
the original wood is pretty light on the surface so the dark stuff may be ok? decisions decisions.