Thread: Cerakote yay or nay?

Will take some photos later when I get home

Gave the stock a birthday too. Came up real good too.

Originally Posted by Flyblown

Gave the stock a birthday too. Came up real good too.

Nice job it looks mint.

Was it steel blued or stainless barrel and action before painting?

Steel blued @tikka

Because it gets rained on from time to time it was prone to a bit of surface rust especially if left in the stock after use. That problem has now been solved. I use a very light coat of Eezox on the bolt and slide inside the action and have not had a problem with any internal blemishes.

I had a bergara done and that was a total waste of time, surfaces that werent supposed to be coated were coated and it wouldn't function afterwards. It bubbled and rusted under the coating within a month or so

Thanks for the info guys!
Duracote and spray gun from the nz supplier ordered. They were very helpful on the phone, took the time to talk me through each and every step! I’ll put photos up when she’s done.

Cheers
Scotty.

Originally Posted by Intrepid

Thanks for the info guys!
Duracote and spray gun from the nz supplier ordered. They were very helpful on the phone, took the time to talk me through each and every step! I’ll put photos up when she’s done.

Cheers
Scotty.

Got a link ?

https://www.finlaysltd.co.nz/

fyi- I got one of these in from the UK- works very well- so easy- and makes the Preval sprayer seem Neolithic.

https://www.neatandhandy.com/product...hobbies-crafts

That looks like a neat little unit @ANTSMAN. This is the one that Finlay’s sold me…. Time will tell how it goes.

https://www.finlaysltd.co.nz/product...hvlp-spray-gun

Originally Posted by Intrepid

That looks like a neat little unit @ANTSMAN. This is the one that Finlay’s sold me…. Time will tell how it goes.

https://www.finlaysltd.co.nz/product...hvlp-spray-gun

Yeh that should be good, the one I tried from Finlays is the preval gas canister jobbie.sprayed toooo thick and droplety

That one you got from Finlay's will be perfect @Intrepid. Airbrush works but it's a lot more fucking about with reducer/ topping up paint to get a good finish, airbrush generally doesn't have enough volume/large enough needle/air cap.

Prevail sprayer is rubbish. Tried one as was waiting on new fitting for compressor. Absolute shit. Sprayed chunks and very inconsistent layers. Loss of pressure in about 2 minutes. Maybe just a dud though.

If you are planning to do it in the colder months put metal in oven at lowest setting (after prep) for a bit to heat up. Pull it out wearing clean gloves and final wipe with solvent (OUTSIDE - hot solvent fumes in kitchen not great for domestic bliss).

While the metalwork getting warm, not hot. Put duracoat bottle in hot but not boiled water. Make sure you don't add hardener before or it will become a jizzy gel and you are fucked.

Remember, prep is key, follow the product instructions and spray light consistent coats allowing flash off in between.

After last semi wet coat put somewhere warm and as dust free as possible. AND DON'T TOUCH IT FOR AT LEAST A WEEK - will be good to put back together after 24h but doesn't reach full durability until about 4 weeks. If you can be patient it will garner better long term result.

I've done quite a few rigs in duracoat now and really recommend it.

For what it's worth I was an auto painter in a previous life, working on Porsche/Audi/Lamborghinis etc so I would like to think my advice is worth considering.

Best of luck.

I should add...

Mask/or plug anywhere you don't want coating. A foam earplug suitably seated works well for muzzle. Just make sure you remove masking products before full cure.

Alternative is a small sticky dot in barrel diameter size carefully over muzzle and just skip coating that.

Flyblown has it sussed with the tubular foam to mask inside of action/bearing surfaces. Rolled and taped cloth is an option.

Oh and make sure you have handling/drying points set up before you start painting.

Originally Posted by Preacher

That one you got from Finlay's will be perfect @Intrepid. Airbrush works but it's a lot more fucking about with reducer/ topping up paint to get a good finish, airbrush generally doesn't have enough volume/large enough needle/air cap.

Prevail sprayer is rubbish. Tried one as was waiting on new fitting for compressor. Absolute shit. Sprayed chunks and very inconsistent layers. Loss of pressure in about 2 minutes. Maybe just a dud though.

If you are planning to do it in the colder months put metal in oven at lowest setting (after prep) for a bit to heat up. Pull it out wearing clean gloves and final wipe with solvent (OUTSIDE - hot solvent fumes in kitchen not great for domestic bliss).

While the metalwork getting warm, not hot. Put duracoat bottle in hot but not boiled water. Make sure you don't add hardener before or it will become a jizzy gel and you are fucked.

Remember, prep is key, follow the product instructions and spray light consistent coats allowing flash off in between.

After last semi wet coat put somewhere warm and as dust free as possible. AND DON'T TOUCH IT FOR AT LEAST A WEEK - will be good to put back together after 24h but doesn't reach full durability until about 4 weeks. If you can be patient it will garner better long term result.

I've done quite a few rigs in duracoat now and really recommend it.

For what it's worth I was an auto painter in a previous life, working on Porsche/Audi/Lamborghinis etc so I would like to think my advice is worth considering.

Best of luck.

Great advice!

@Preacher you are a champion. Thanks for taking the time and effort to pass on your hard earned knowledge. I was planning on plugging the action from the red line in the photo and spraying the rest, or would you recommend I plug the entire internal action from where the bolt enters the action to the barrel face? I was also planning on spraying the back of the bolt and the handle but leaving the bolt body and face.

Cheers