Thread: Copper remover

+1 on that.
I gave up on Sweets (smell) and Eliminator (not that effective) and am more than happy with KG12.

Boretech Carbon Remover is a great gen purpose solvent and certainly safer on your body that the Top Engine Cleaner I used to use.

Used to use sweets. But can't get it anymore in England. On a side note which you don't get it on the outside of a blued barrel as it will take the bluing off

to say I have tried most things could be an understatement!
the best and easiest so far are the 2 foaming bore cleaners by a long shot with top prize going to the wipe out

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I use the Gunslick foam, but equally as good if not better is Pro Shot Copper Solvent 1V. The pro shot is less messy.

I dropped onto the Pro Shot when I noticed it would bring out blue patches after the foam would not.

Copper fowling can be a bugger. As others have said, you need to cut through to the copper with a carbon remover. The Pro Shot seems to be able to do this too. The label reckons it can.

Aqueous ammonia, 29%, worked through with barrel solvents using a nylon brush so I guess it forms an emulsion. I don't leave the mix in the barrel for very long, but then have never needed to as it is quite effective. I've not seen any sign of chemical action on the steel in the timeframe used. Most of the ammonia would outgas pretty quickly if not sealed in, and the dilute electrolyte of various bits and bobs formed in combination with atmospheric oxygen probably isn't very good for barrels in the long term. That is probably how ammonia gets its bad reputation.

Originally Posted by Sasquatch

Can you please elaborate on this? Reason I ask is I use this stuff, seems to work really well but I'm not sure that it is harsh on barrels as it says on the bottle that it's okay to leave a wet patch in the barrel for storage.

Just what i was told by the guy at the gunshop mate he said is only really for barrel that are pitted like old 303's etc that need a harsher cleaner to clean out the nooks and crannies...says that it's ok to store with it in the gun on the eliminater aswell but I never would always clean any solvent no matter what out with meths and then oil with
ballistol oil

For me scrubbs cloudy ammonia from the supermarket is the quickest and easiest. If the fouling is heavy with carbon as well mixing it with chalk dust does the trick as its a super mild abrasive. Patch soaked in that comes out blue instantly. Dont use a brass or ali jag, stainless only, and i follow up with a meths wipe before oiling. From an ex chemists viewpoint ammonia is the most efficent copper dissolver, the amine based ones were introduced as they smell less but the trade off is less activity. Regarding rust as long as the ph is high steel wont rust, ammonia is strongly alkaline but will evapourate leaving water behind, so if the metals not properly dry thats when rusting can start. Using meths pulls all the water out before oiling

Thanks for all the input guys...so put a patch through after leaving the gunslick soak overnight & hoora lots of dark blue goop came out most of the visible copper has gone still a bit of carbon in there by the looks of the patch , pretty happy with how its worked compared to what I had tried , il keep repeating until the barrel is clean.
Cheers.

Originally Posted by rambo-6mmrem

Just what i was told by the guy at the gunshop mate he said is only really for barrel that are pitted like old 303's etc that need a harsher cleaner to clean out the nooks and crannies...says that it's ok to store with it in the gun on the eliminater aswell but I never would always clean any solvent no matter what out with meths and then oil with
ballistol oil

Interesting. Wouldn't a few clean dry patches be adequate for removing solvent rather then meths before putting an oil patch through at the end of cleaning? I have never bothered to put meths in my barrels after cleaning carbon/copper out but it seems a few here do?

Originally Posted by Sasquatch

Interesting. Wouldn't a few clean dry patches be adequate for removing solvent rather then meths before putting an oil patch through at the end of cleaning? I have never bothered to put meths in my barrels after cleaning carbon/copper out but it seems a few here do?

A wet patch would do....Ammonia is attracted to and dissolved in water..so if you are paranoid about traces of ammonia left in your barrel attracting moisture and causing corrosion the best course of action is actually water/wet patches that will absorb ammonia then dry and oil, meths will attract moisture to an extent but really you need to get rid of the moisture attractant in the first place (Ammonia)

Just had a read on the Boretech cu+2 bottle and it doesn't contain any ammonia so I'm all good But not sure if my Mpro-7 gun cleaner has any or not. Doesn't say, use it for attacking carbon does a sweet job for cleaning carbon fouling.