I've looked at it more like a set of golf clubs, 1 or 2 for each occasion
Most desirable feature... to be carrying it in the Bush / hill / mountains of New Zealand, doesn't really matter what make or model it is at the end of the day
I'm a leftie so ended up with a tikka action (more than 1 over the years) in stainless in a caliber I can go into any gunship and buy a packet (223 and 308 covers most things)
something that doesn't waste lots of powder on low BC projectiles unnecessarily producing more recoil than necessary and requiring a long action
6.5 Creedmoor
or it's almost perfect predecessor
.308
Something @MSL has spent money on that I buy for half cost. Ideal for me at least.
Have a suppressor for me. Don't think I'll hardly ever fire a rifle without one again.
Haven't since I got one
Tikka t3 be perfect rifle for me if it was top loading drop floorplate.
My Ruger mk2 was all of that and I've recently sold it to my mate
This
Lightweight, short, cerakoted.
90% of nZ hunting covered except really long range (500+)
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"Here's the deal I'm the best there is. Plain and simple. I wake up in the morning and I piss excellence."
For me the best allounder would be
Lightweight
Stainless
detachable mags
ability to take 10 rd mags as well
20" 8 twist 308 win barrel
3-16 scope with turrets that dial accurately
side parralax
synthetic stock
good, light supressor
This means you can shoot heavy subs, but still load longer range bullets to shoot deer out to 600 yards and do everything in between plus be supersonic to still shoot targets at 1000 yards for fun. and when you get stuck into a mob of goats you can take the 10 rd mag.
if not keen on shooting subs, then the same in 6.5 Creedmoor
If you can't kill it with bullets, dont f*ck with it.
Greetings All,
Here is my tuppence worth. It seems that many have focused on the rifle only and left the hunter out of the picture. To my rather old fashioned brain the rifle needs to fit the hunter.
The sights should align easily when the rifle is shouldered regardless of position. Stock the right length. Comb and sight height suitable for hunter
The rifle should enable the hunter to learn to shoot it accurately.
Next.
The rifle should be reasonably light and well balanced. A suppressor will help with short barrels.
The action should operate smoothly when loading and reloading.
The cartridge needs to be adequately powerful for the hunting intended.
The scope needs to be suitable for the hunting intended.
And nice to have.
Stainless steel action and barrel make field maintenance easier.
Each hunter will have different needs and often have different rifles to cover them all, at least that is my excuse. My favourite is probably a Tikka T3 Lite with a Leupold FX2 6 power scope with the Long Range Duplex reticule. Others may differ.
Regards Grandpamac.
gidday all, was going to say just what grandpamac did. Doesn't really matter what you shoot as long as the rifle fits and sights line up to your eyes when you're aiming. Calibre and projectile adequate for the game hunted, but that is a very wide list.
For me stainless steel is good, preferably ceracoted or nitrided black. But good old blueing is fine too. I think a well finished and maintained walnut stock does the trick, not too fancy because it's gonna get dinged.
Laminate / plastic stocks are supposed to be ideal for wet conditions, but in reality your stock is not going to rot unless you're really soaking it constantly. In that case I'd rather have an aluminium chassis, with adjustable stock, despite it being a bit heavier.
Shortish barrel for reduced weight and ease of handling, maybe 18-20". The few hundred f/sec you get with long barrels don't really matter unless we're talking about extreme long range.
And short barrels are just as accurate, if not more so than longer, due to increased stiffness.
A robust scope on QD mount, with back up open sights or QD red dot. Can't shoot what you can't see.....
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