Thread: DPT brake end cap

Originally Posted by Ruger7mm

Hi all, interesting thread, I have been using suppressors for 20 odd years now and believe they have a few advantages for the hunter. Firstly they definitely get the noise down below the single point exposure level for hearing loss, if you were repeatedly firing through the suppressor the noise would still be above levels that cause hearing loss. In a previous life managing professional hunters the straight can reduced the noise for the shooter, their dog's hearing wasn't hurt anywhere as much compared to no can and shooting over top of them, so didn't need retiring at 6 years of age due to deafness, and the goats and deer were often confused as to where the noise of the report came from allowing for multiple kills on many occasions. Hunting with ear muffs that filter the loud noise out doesn't work in the bush hunting scenario as sense of direction to a noise is lost when using them, you may hear a goat or deer but won't have any idea which direction to look. I have an early Hardy (12 years old) suppressor with a brake machined into the front cap and I can't notice any difference in sound when shooting, however if I am a bystander it certainly is louder. In open country where you generally have more time to shoot, a brake and grade 5 muffs are certainly an option, however for a North Island bush hunter they are not.
I feel the combination of a suppressor, a decent recoil pad, and a good trigger allow many people to shoot calibres that in their raw form would have been a bit much horsepower for them. With less recoil we all are able to be more confident with our shooting which should mean more one shot humane kills.

Its raining here again so to further the conversation, Im not a hearing safe fanatic, Iv made choices over the years that have done some damage and I still do though Im trying to be smarter about it. So to pick up on a couple of your points I agree suppressors are very good. I have a couple of different brands I like using them. I don't agree they are safe with single shots though, the reading Iv done suggests other wise, more so with the current short barrel trend on large chamberings and then putting a brake cap on the front can only increase the sound level. It will be interesting to see the results when some testing is done on the db output with these brake caps though as I have nothing to base this on, only opinion.
I dont buy into the confused animal theory. Having shot a significant number over the years from before suppressors were a thing I can say Iv seen no difference over all, sometimes animals run , often they dont. I think the geography, taking the lead animal out first, hunting pressure etc has a much greater impact. Thinking about this from the point of the shooter rather than the target may give us the impression its having an effect but the sonic crack from a super sonic bullet creates more noise than the powder blast from around 60m from the muzzle IIRC. Subsonic obviously would be a different story.
The modern electronic muffs are actually quite good at giving direction of sound, they have improved a lot in a short space of time and the sound enhancement is very good but I get they arn't for everyone. Its hard enough getting some people to use them on the job site
For your bush hunting example I would say defiantly use a suppressor but if the recoil is such that you feel the need to reduce it more than the suppressor has already then then perhaps a smaller cartridge would be worth considering.
Its obviously personal perception but I see the big advantage of suppressors as reducing sound with some recoil reduction. Opening up the front cap and turning them into franken cans to trade off sound suppression for less recoil seems to be a negative to me. Maybe a symptom for trying to get one rifle to do it all ?

Originally Posted by Sika 8

This is how mine comes apart (MK2 non magnum)

Attachment 259218

You still have 1 baffle that should come apart the only one that doesn't come off is the very thin about 3-4mm end cap.

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Originally Posted by Ruger7mm

Hi all, interesting thread, I have been using suppressors for 20 odd years now and believe they have a few advantages for the hunter. Firstly they definitely get the noise down below the single point exposure level for hearing loss, if you were repeatedly firing through the suppressor the noise would still be above levels that cause hearing loss. In a previous life managing professional hunters the straight can reduced the noise for the shooter, their dog's hearing wasn't hurt anywhere as much compared to no can and shooting over top of them, so didn't need retiring at 6 years of age due to deafness, and the goats and deer were often confused as to where the noise of the report came from allowing for multiple kills on many occasions. Hunting with ear muffs that filter the loud noise out doesn't work in the bush hunting scenario as sense of direction to a noise is lost when using them, you may hear a goat or deer but won't have any idea which direction to look. I have an early Hardy (12 years old) suppressor with a brake machined into the front cap and I can't notice any difference in sound when shooting, however if I am a bystander it certainly is louder. In open country where you generally have more time to shoot, a brake and grade 5 muffs are certainly an option, however for a North Island bush hunter they are not.
I feel the combination of a suppressor, a decent recoil pad, and a good trigger allow many people to shoot calibres that in their raw form would have been a bit much horsepower for them. With less recoil we all are able to be more confident with our shooting which should mean more one shot humane kills.

OK, my 0.02c on this is that in bush where you are likely to be near an obstruction in front of the muzzle like a tree trunk, bank, cutting or some other solid lump you are very likely to get a damaging amount of sound energy reflected back at you even with a suppressor fitted. I learned that the hard way shooting next to a bank in a patch of bush on my left side, fu**ing ow ringing and deaf left ear.

Decent brand and model electronic muffs should enhance the directional awareness of sound not decrease it, I'd suggest sourcing some decent Peltor of Sordin ones and trying those on for size.

Tested the brake cap today, definitely reduced recoil. Made a bit a bigger bang however still not even close to without a can

Originally Posted by tibo

Tested the brake cap today, definitely reduced recoil. Made a bit a bigger bang however still not even close to without a can

Is the Atec worth the extra cost and barrel overhang?

Originally Posted by Fisherman

Is the Atec worth the extra cost and barrel overhang?

Less overhang with only one module I personally wouldn't bother with the overbarrel version there's not much volume in that portion for the added weight (actually that's true of most overbarrel options but especially the atec. The locking system is so good no issues using the muzzle forward option.

Originally Posted by Stocky

Less overhang with only one module I personally wouldn't bother with the overbarrel version there's not much volume in that portion for the added weight (actually that's true of most overbarrel options but especially the atec. The locking system is so good no issues using the muzzle forward option.

If there is only one thing I dont like on the A-tec it’s their locking system. I loctite it in the suppressor

Originally Posted by Fisherman

Is the Atec worth the extra cost and barrel overhang?

I have the a-tec on my 7mm prc and the dpt on my 6.5 creedmoor so not a fair comparison. They both doing what they are supposed to do and on both the brake end cap is probably reducing the remaining recoil by a third of what’s left vs can without.

Originally Posted by tibo

If there is only one thing I dont like on the A-tec it’s their locking system. I loctite it in the suppressor

Why? There's no way I'd run any suppressor without a decent rear bushing without a locking style mount.

Originally Posted by Stocky

Why? There's no way I'd run any suppressor without a decent rear bushing without a locking style mount.

Didn’t pay attention between shot, A-lock system got loose and supressor launched down range 120m to beat… had also point of impact moving slightly around between shooting session depending how hard I was tightening the A-lock

Originally Posted by tibo

Didn’t pay attention between shot, A-lock system got loose and supressor launched down range 120m to beat… had also point of impact moving slightly around between shooting session depending how hard I was tightening the A-lock

2 questions I guess.

My alock is so tight I've had to break it free with the vice before ive got to the point i lather it liberally in silver antisieze. Are you sure your adapter didn't loosen? Guess if just the suppressor launched it has to be the alock.

On POI are you sure your rifles as accurate as you think/does your scope actually hold zero. I had shifting zeros with a VX3i and managed to track it down to it not liking vibrations when being behind the seat. And also unless you have down a high round composite group "shifting zero" is often just the real accuracy of a rifle being observed over a larger sample size (assuming your meaning 0.25-0.5 moa shifts) gimp threads are a decent example of this. When I sighted in prior to the Shoot a few weeks ago if I'd zeroed of the forst 5 I'd have been high 0.2mils and left 0.2 mils at 10 shots with 1 "flyer" I'd have been high 0.2 and left 0.1. That's the most extreme I've seen it with 10 I don't think most people's rifles cone of fire is as good as they think (not that it really matters in most cases)

Originally Posted by Fisherman

Is the Atec worth the extra cost and barrel overhang?

You can't really compare the dpt two the atec there on completely different levels of product quality and sound suppresson.
Both have there supporters

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Originally Posted by Stocky

2 questions I guess.

My alock is so tight I've had to break it free with the vice before ive got to the point i lather it liberally in silver antisieze. Are you sure your adapter didn't loosen? Guess if just the suppressor launched it has to be the alock.

On POI are you sure your rifles as accurate as you think/does your scope actually hold zero. I had shifting zeros with a VX3i and managed to track it down to it not liking vibrations when being behind the seat. And also unless you have down a high round composite group "shifting zero" is often just the real accuracy of a rifle being observed over a larger sample size (assuming your meaning 0.25-0.5 moa shifts) gimp threads are a decent example of this. When I sighted in prior to the Shoot a few weeks ago if I'd zeroed of the forst 5 I'd have been high 0.2mils and left 0.2 mils at 10 shots with 1 "flyer" I'd have been high 0.2 and left 0.1. That's the most extreme I've seen it with 10 I don't think most people's rifles cone of fire is as good as they think (not that it really matters in most cases)

We should perhaps create a new thread, it's not really an A-tec discussion. "My alock is so tight I've had to break it free with the vice before" how does that work? the alock is inside the suppressor quite deep how do you get a vice in there? or do you mean you had to secure your suppressor in a vice to unscrew the barrel?

It happened few years ago during second session at the range. I got it tight during first session but then it came loose on the barrel and got stuck in the suppressor. I had to use red loctite on the barrel muzzle thread, wait for it to dry to then manage to get the aloc free in the can. Then second session I didn't torqued it has hard to not repeat the experience, fired quite a few round this day without checking the can and boom.

Group impact shifting depending the torque applied on the aloc 100%. I'm not the first having reported that. Aloc been now secured inside with Loctite 638 and all good.

I'll pm you. But Mines muzzle forward and and I hold the suppressor in the vice and turn the rifle. My alock adapters loctited on to my muzzle.

EDIT:Actually maybe a new threads a good idea as I've heard the ALock thing a few times but without context and now I think I'll give it a test with a few 25 round groups.

Ha yep make sens with muzzle forward. Would be less concern with muzzle forward as you can crank it and do what you have been doing if it get stuck. It just annoying when it get stuck on an over barrel model