Thread: Give it the snip?

I have recently found myself the owner of my first riffle a Savage 110 .308. I have been told by the previous owner that he was shooting 1.4moa which is close to what im getting at the moment. I am by no means a gun smith but looking at the last inch or so of the barrel at the muzzle end there isn't a hell of a lot of riffling visible. Would it be advisable to get a gunsmith to trim a inch off the end or would it not do much to the accuracy. Any advise appreciated. Cheers

If it ain't broke don't try to fix it is my advice maybe try different brands of ammo to see if you can find one that shoots a bit tighter. 1.4MOA is a dead deer, I used to chase surgical accuracy big time which ended in frustration and shit loads of powder and bullets going up the tube, I do load my own ammo I have two loads for my reminton 700sps in 270 that I am happy with one is a just above min charge which gives me 0.9 of an inch @ 100M the other is 1 inch @ 100M to me that is good enough as they are only hunting and gong bashing loads.

I agree with Hunter308. I loaded up my 260 to shoot about an inch or under. Tried a random load and it worked so ive kept it. Don't know what velocity it is, I just know it shoots about an inch at 100. Ive shot 4 deer with it and all of them died, so its good for me. My theory is, if it shoots about an inch at 100m, you will hit a deer at 300.
Well, that's my theory anyway.

Im sure many others will disagree. But good on them for shooting heaps of projectiles and using heaps of powder for half an inch gain.

If you like the idea of a shorter rifle anyway then why not try it and see if it improves?

Originally Posted by jim160

I agree with Hunter308. I loaded up my 260 to shoot about an inch or under. Tried a random load and it worked so ive kept it. Don't know what velocity it is, I just know it shoots about an inch at 100. Ive shot 4 deer with it and all of them died, so its good for me. My theory is, if it shoots about an inch at 100m, you will hit a deer at 300.
Well, that's my theory anyway.

Im sure many others will disagree. But good on them for shooting heaps of projectiles and using heaps of powder for half an inch gain.

51.5gr of 2209 had me smacking gongs out to 320 meters at the te kuiti field shoot and that was my 0.9 inch load the 53.5 grain charge is the 1 inch jobbie, will be using my 51.5 grain charge this weekend seeing I have 40 rounds of it to use before sighting in on the faster load.

Originally Posted by possummatti

I have recently found myself the owner of my first riffle a Savage 110 .308. I have been told by the previous owner that he was shooting 1.4moa which is close to what im getting at the moment. I am by no means a gun smith but looking at the last inch or so of the barrel at the muzzle end there isn't a hell of a lot of riffling visible. Would it be advisable to get a gunsmith to trim a inch off the end or would it not do much to the accuracy. Any advise appreciated. Cheers

Just remember if you cut it off, you can't glue it back on if you change your mind...if you are shooting within a 50mm square at 100 metres then you are good to go, but just remember that deer are not going to wait for you to drag your shooting table out and allow time to adjust your scope and for and aft sandbags...I would be more interested in knowing if you can consistently hammer rounds through a 300mm square standing freehand at 100 metres.

Originally Posted by GravelBen

If you like the idea of a shorter rifle anyway then why not try it and see if it improves?

Yea that.
you won't lose Bugger all velocity from an inch.
when you say it looks worn can you see better rifleing down the tube? how old is it and how many rounds been down the tube?
ss or blue ?
tried any other types of ammo?

Sent from my GT-S5360T using Tapatalk 2

Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Yea that.
you won't lose Bugger all velocity from an inch.
when you say it looks worn can you see better rifleing down the tube? how old is it and how many rounds been down the tube?
ss or blue ?
tried any other types of ammo?

Sent from my GT-S5360T using Tapatalk 2

Yea to me it looks like the riffling is better further down the barrel. Not sure how old it is it looks like its done a few yards. Its blued.
First tried some old rounds my mate had laying around and they were all over the show. Now using federal 150gr hunting load

Loop some off, I don't think it's going to make it any worse if anything it'll probably make it better.

Originally Posted by Spook

Just remember if you cut it off, you can't glue it back on if you change your mind...if you are shooting within a 50mm square at 100 metres then you are good to go, but just remember that deer are not going to wait for you to drag your shooting table out and allow time to adjust your scope and for and aft sandbags...I would be more interested in knowing if you can consistently hammer rounds through a 300mm square standing freehand at 100 metres.

I wouldn't call myself a crack shot to be honest. Might just leave it as it is for now. Will give me something to blame when i miss

Originally Posted by Toby

Loop some off, I don't think it's going to make it any worse if anything it'll probably make it better.

yep , older hunting rifles sometimes "wear" at the muzzle not from any wear as such but from rust and cleaning as that is where the water gets in.

I could send you a few hand loads of a recipe that generally goes well to try if you like.

Sent from my GT-S5360T using Tapatalk 2

I would take it in and get them to have a look at it,
Even a fresh recrown will make a difference in many rifles.
Remember its the last piece to touch the bullet so is the most important imo.
Borescope doesn't lye

Originally Posted by veitnamcam

yep , older hunting rifles sometimes "wear" at the muzzle not from any wear as such but from rust and cleaning as that is where the water gets in.

I could send you a few hand loads of a recipe that generally goes well to try if you like.

Sent from my GT-S5360T using Tapatalk 2

Thanks VC would be good to have a experiment with a different load. Just wondering what sorta cost is associated with getting the gear to reload? Cheers

The rifle is early 1970's vintage.
I have a 11degree crown cutter you can borrow if you chose to cut the end off it.

I'd leave it as it is for the moment though, give it some exercise first.