Thread: Gun city quality firearms…. Yea na

14x1 male thread has a allowable outside diameter of 13.862-13.974mm
15x1 female thread has a allowable inside diameter of 13.917-14.153mm

A 14x1 male thread at the high end of the range attached to a small end of the range 15x1 will absolutely feel tight - at least until the .06mm lets go.

I've had both good and very bad experiences in GC, so no interest in this other than putting the facts out there.

Originally Posted by Marty Henry

Half by 28 us hard to confuse with anything else

Because it only belongs on a 22 Rimfire ?

Ars were 1/2×28 some t3s are as well

And for all the guys that like to bag gc and tell them how to do it, Im yet to see any of them actually do it them selves and show us how its done....

Originally Posted by Ross Nolan

14x1 male thread has a allowable outside diameter of 13.862-13.974mm
15x1 female thread has a allowable inside diameter of 13.917-14.153mm

A 14x1 male thread at the high end of the range attached to a small end of the range 15x1 will absolutely feel tight - at least until the .06mm lets go.

I've had both good and very bad experiences in GC, so no interest in this other than putting the facts out there.

Good to see a machiness tool maker on here.I just rely on gun smith,if it don't work I take it back.Havnt had to do that yet in the last 20yrs.Had no problems with GC in the last 20yrs either.

Originally Posted by Trout

Good to see a machiness tool maker on here.I just rely on gun smith,if it don't work I take it back.Havnt had to do that yet in the last 20yrs.Had no problems with GC in the last 20yrs either.

Just a grumpy fitter and turner, but I do know how to read Machinerys Handbook.



It's what the internet used to look like.

All credit to you Dan and GC for owning this. There's not enough of this honesty in today's critical world.

Originally Posted by Ross Nolan

Just a grumpy fitter and turner, but I do know how to read Machinerys Handbook.

Attachment 267795

It's what the internet used to look like.

I looked that up too, as I said I was surprised to see 15x1 on rifles (but then thinking about it why am I surprised haha - it seems like a good way for a manufacturer to try to ring fence buyers into their own gear sales stream a bit like Ruger mounts or Weatherby ammo back in the day).

One thing I do tend to do after having an issue in the past with a slightly undercut thread on a rifle barrel is I give the can a wiggle before it's tight and screwed home. This will show you instantly if it's the right can, as noted not all cans and not many rifles have the thread specs on them and this is something that I feel is a bit of a trap. Especially the cans as it is bloody hard to measure an overbarrel can's thread! Certain metric and imperial threads can cross over as well, and this can be dangerous as they can screw up out of alignment and not fly off under pressure which can result in strikes and worse damage. I feel the shooter with this one got away with it and was quite lucky in reality that there wasn't any damage and it actually parted company at the first opportunity and didn't hang around and develop a worse problem over time.

All I go by is the 2 guys I've used for the last 25 years won't thread without the suppressor in their warm little hand, must be a reason?

Originally Posted by tetawa

All I go by is the 2 guys I've used for the last 25 years won't thread without the suppressor in their warm little hand, must be a reason?

Same with the guy I use

not the only area that threads can catch u out.
i get customers bringing in hydraulics hose with a female flare fitting and with some wear and corosion and crap its posible to wind in a 9/16 unf (14.2mm) a 3/8 bsp 13.5mm at the larger end of the tapper and M14x1.5 at aprox 13.8mm. JIC, JIS bsp & ISO/JIS metric.
easy if you are onsite and have the male to test or measure.
Z

Originally Posted by Tahr

My experience of the service at the Wellington branch has always been friendly and very good. I shop there by choice - there are other options that are not maligned in social media but are no better and in some ways not as good.
When at fault, it's the putting right that counts. Sounds like you have done ok.

I'd second this opinion! Buy all my firearms related stuff from them, always good advice and service.
Even when I'm in blatant tire kicker mode they are more than happy to have a yarn.

Originally Posted by longshot

The thing is, it would be fair to say most owners of a threaded barrel wouldn’t know by looking at it, what thread it is, if I ask a gunsmith to put a 14x1 or a 15x1 thread on a muzzle, I would assume that the thread is correct because the suppressor fits.

I had had four different muzzles threaded successfully before I found out that the gunsmith should have the suppressor at hand to do the job. And that was from a highly reputable gunsmith who I admittedly put in the situation but there was no mention of it at the time.

I guess one takeaway from this thread is that it is important to know what you’re buying and fitting together, satisfy yourself and don’t take the word of anyone who has a financial interest (this applies across the board not to only one retailer) in reassuring you. Yes items may have a good warranty, but a paper promise doesn’t mitigate the loss of driving hours to a range and firing upwards of $50 worth of ammunition to find out something is broken. Or worse still, having gear fail after helicoptering into somewhere in the South Island.

The whole "suppressor needs to be in hand" to cut muzzle threads is due to piss poor understanding of thread geometry and quality control from suppressor manufacturers. There are thread standards for a reason and in my experience only a couple of manufacturers get this right. As a result, if a muzzle thread is cut perfectly to spec, it can still be loose as hell on a poorly made suppressor, hence many smiths insisting on needing the can in hand.

We should all be using a taper behind the thread instead of a square shoulder, this would negate all requirements for accurately cut threads. The locking and alignment comes from the taper and the threads are used to just lock and unlock the taper.

Unfortunately, getting worldwide manufacturers to agree on a standard for something like this is pretty much impossible.

Originally Posted by tetawa

All I go by is the 2 guys I've used for the last 25 years won't thread without the suppressor in their warm little hand, must be a reason?

The reason will be that when cutting a steel thread to fit an aluminum nut you only want to cut it just deep enough for the can to screw on. No way do you want too much clearance on an alloy thread.

Have used suppressors from DPT x1, Gun Works x6, Waitaki Engineering x1, Sonic x2, MAE x1 and a few other foreign brands i can't remember off top of my head. They've all been threaded within standard so can't say I've struck a dud one yet. I've seen a few cock-ups where people have tried putting suppressors on miss-matched threads though, especially 1/2x20 and 1/2x28 UNEF. Also the clusterfuck between 5/8x24/ 14x1 and 15x1 threads. Some people just don't look or know their threads. A bit like home handymen that can't recognize SAE, UNF, Whitworth, Metric course and metric fine. A few manufacturers put tapered face on their barrel threads but then you have to use proprietary suppressor or source a unit to match rifle. I have a Sig Sauer that uses this system and they also supply a tapered/squared face ring to enable use of common square-faced suppressor threads, something else to lose if you're not diligent.