Thread: Gun Porn, show off your new toys

Originally Posted by 300CALMAN

did you manage to build in 20moa for the longer shots? I 'm sure you would have worked it out OK with your tape measure.

Yeah I built in about 40 moa cant as after seeing the lads shoot 1800 yards at the Toby shoot I'm keen to do that eh.

Didn't use a tape measure tho, I got fancy and used my old protractor from my high school tech drawing class.

That might be stretching the old 303 tho, so after seeing kiwigreg post that 26 Nosler brass I'm now keen to ream the old military barrel out to suit 303/26 Nosler, then I'll look at brazing two 150 bullets together base to base to make a double pointy ended 300g 303 long range bullet.

Thanks for all the other excellent suggestions, this forum really is a wealth of information.

Originally Posted by GWH

Thanks for all the other excellent suggestions, this forum really is a wealth of information.

No problem. If you want help with welding the car headlight to the barrel we are good at that too. Not to mention a fence post tripod and coke can suppressor and you will be No 8 tacti-cool. Also don't forget the BBQ paint crap-coat paint job.

Originally Posted by 300CALMAN

No problem. If you want help with welding the car headlight to the barrel we are good at that too. Not to mention a fence post tripod and coke can suppressor and you will be No 8 tacti-cool. Also don't forget the BBQ paint crap-coat paint job.

All great ideas, I may need to add some dolly wheels to the old girl by the time we're finished here

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Do you make a tactical version

Originally Posted by northdude

Do you make a tactical version

The tactical version is the same, you just colour it black with a sharpie and a picatinny rail is welded on the side of the scope....to mount tactical shit

Originally Posted by Spudattack

The tactical version is the same, you just colour it black with a sharpie and a picatinny rail is welded on the side of the scope....to mount tactical shit

Yeah that's exactly it, however I seem to have an issue with blowing holes in the scope tube when welding on the picatinny rail. Bit of duck tape over the holes should keep the water out tho.

Originally Posted by GWH

Yeah that's exactly it, however I seem to have an issue with blowing holes in the scope tube when welding on the picatinny rail. Bit of duck tape over the holes should keep the water out tho.

Doesn't the paratrooper model have the back of the stock cut off at the pistol grip and a brass hinge and latch screwed on to make it folding?

Originally Posted by Spudattack

Doesn't the paratrooper model have the back of the stock cut off at the pistol grip and a brass hinge and latch screwed on to make it folding?

I may have a position for you, you can be the 'ideas' man, and I'll continue with the quality craftmanship.

We won't need to worry about a marketing guy, as it's fair to say that high class work like this will sell its self.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by GWH

Yeah that's exactly it, however I seem to have an issue with blowing holes in the scope tube when welding on the picatinny rail. Bit of duck tape over the holes should keep the water out tho.

If you use some duct tape to hold a torch on you'll have night vision.

Frankly I am surprised we haven't had military orders streaming in yet, i suppose it is the weekend though, better take your phone off the hook come Monday though, not sure our production capabilities will keep up....

Sent from my SM-G360G using Tapatalk

Perfect for those elevated shots GWH

He has an amazing cheek weld Scouser. Ha ha ha ha

Looks about 60moa so he should be good

If you find you max out on elevation before 1000yrds turn your ammo 45 degrees anti clockwise before chambering ...................your spin drift then becomes elevation and you won't have to dial as far

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

If you find you max out on elevation before 1000yrds turn your ammo 45 degrees anti clockwise before chambering ...................your spin drift then becomes elevation and you won't have to dial as far

I was going to suggest welding a teaspoon in front of the barrel to kick the bullet up just as it left the muzzle but you idea is so much better.