Thread: Gun Porn, show off your new toys

Originally Posted by GWH

Yeah that's exactly it, however I seem to have an issue with blowing holes in the scope tube when welding on the picatinny rail. Bit of duck tape over the holes should keep the water out tho.

If you use some duct tape to hold a torch on you'll have night vision.

Originally Posted by Steve123

Why have you got KY in your mouth?

Better to have KY in my mouth than have that rifle.

Originally Posted by Miami_JBT

Better to have KY in my mouth than have that rifle.

I dunno, it now has night vision.

Originally Posted by GWH

I'm just getting into longer range shooting, and I hear everyone talking about come ups and adjusting for elavation, canted rails etc.

So I've had a play with my rifle and think it's ready to go.



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Whiskey, Tango, fukn Foxtrot........

He has an amazing cheek weld Scouser. Ha ha ha ha

Originally Posted by GWH

I'm just getting into longer range shooting, and I hear everyone talking about come ups and adjusting for elavation, canted rails etc.

So I've had a play with my rifle and think it's ready to go.

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did you manage to build in 20moa for the longer shots? I 'm sure you would have worked it out OK with your tape measure.

Looks about 60moa so he should be good

If you find you max out on elevation before 1000yrds turn your ammo 45 degrees anti clockwise before chambering ...................your spin drift then becomes elevation and you won't have to dial as far

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

If you find you max out on elevation before 1000yrds turn your ammo 45 degrees anti clockwise before chambering ...................your spin drift then becomes elevation and you won't have to dial as far

I was going to suggest welding a teaspoon in front of the barrel to kick the bullet up just as it left the muzzle but you idea is so much better.

That rifle be no good to me I would need to stand on a ladder to look through the scope.

Originally Posted by Dundee

That rifle be no good to me I would need to stand on a ladder to look through the scope.

That's alright, just use the same one you use to get onto your quad bike..

Originally Posted by 300CALMAN

did you manage to build in 20moa for the longer shots? I 'm sure you would have worked it out OK with your tape measure.

Yeah I built in about 40 moa cant as after seeing the lads shoot 1800 yards at the Toby shoot I'm keen to do that eh.

Didn't use a tape measure tho, I got fancy and used my old protractor from my high school tech drawing class.

That might be stretching the old 303 tho, so after seeing kiwigreg post that 26 Nosler brass I'm now keen to ream the old military barrel out to suit 303/26 Nosler, then I'll look at brazing two 150 bullets together base to base to make a double pointy ended 300g 303 long range bullet.

Thanks for all the other excellent suggestions, this forum really is a wealth of information.

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

If you find you max out on elevation before 1000yrds turn your ammo 45 degrees anti clockwise before chambering ...................your spin drift then becomes elevation and you won't have to dial as far

Now why didn't I think of that, awesome tip!

Originally Posted by GWH

Thanks for all the other excellent suggestions, this forum really is a wealth of information.

No problem. If you want help with welding the car headlight to the barrel we are good at that too. Not to mention a fence post tripod and coke can suppressor and you will be No 8 tacti-cool. Also don't forget the BBQ paint crap-coat paint job.

Originally Posted by 300CALMAN

No problem. If you want help with welding the car headlight to the barrel we are good at that too. Not to mention a fence post tripod and coke can suppressor and you will be No 8 tacti-cool. Also don't forget the BBQ paint crap-coat paint job.

All great ideas, I may need to add some dolly wheels to the old girl by the time we're finished here

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