Thread: Hardy Custom Rifle Review

Originally Posted by mcche171

one thing i have noticed after 20 rounds in there is a lot of shit in the barrel. Do you think a dry bore snake will help clear some of it out without cleaning the copper and carbon that it clearly likes?

Try it Im certain it will remove most of the dust

Originally Posted by mcche171

one thing i have noticed after 20 rounds in there is a lot of shit in the barrel. Do you think a dry bore snake will help clear some of it out without cleaning the copper and carbon that it clearly likes?

Yeah, I do that and mine holds its accuracy. Its a Hardy barrel.

had a catch up with Dan this morning re build and how it is shooting. Passed on that I am happy as Larry with my barrel and the accuracy it is producing. I have to admit i was pretty fucked off during the process with the time delays etc and i wasnt afraid to key board warrior it on here, but he confirmed what had been told to me earlier, that the hold up was with kiwi composites taking their time and hardy had to send send back my barrel to them as it wasnt up to standard.
So I can say that i would recommend the barrel and builds, yes time can be frustrating, but seems it wasnt all their fault. To be honest i will probably get another one done by them now too. 7mm mag is looking pretty good.

At times its hard to know what to think. @Philipo put a bit of a scare into me when he said that Hardy's barrel maker had left and that the barrels have deteriorated. But I was committed by then and in any event my barrel has turned out primo. Scott Trail made a damn good job on it too.

Actually, I haven't heard first hand of a dud Hardy barrel.

Shamelessly stolen from Terminal Ballistics Knowledge base that also is I understand pretty similar to many of the people on this forums knowledge.

In the barrel making industry, the finishing processes are usually performed by the machinist himself. The blank bar stock is bored to the desired caliber after which a rifled button is pulled through the bore with near un-imaginable force. Following this, the bore is lapped to the desired finish which can be done with slugs or simply by hand with abrasive pastes. The goal of this finishing operation is to reduce friction within the bore in order to minimize copper fouling. The bore does not need to be mirror finished although in certain lights, a rifle bore will often appear as though it has been mirror finished (1200-2000 grit).

A smooth, suitably polished bore cannot eliminate copper fouling. Instead, the optimum bore will foul at a very low, very consistent rate. Accurate shooting is all about minimizing variables and a bore that to a greater extent holds a very small layer of copper without any rapid build up/ change of internal conditions, has the potential to provide long term accuracy between de-fouling operations.

The finish applied by the barrel maker/machinist is dependent on two simple factors; time and money. During times of a recession or great competition between manufacturers, a price war will always result in a reduction of high labor content procedures. To this extent, lapping is one of the first operations to suffer. In other instances, where a company is under such demand that it cannot get its rifles out to the consumers fast enough to operate effectively, final finishing operations are once again, reduced to a minimum. Sometimes, a rifle barrel may have a burr on the rifling land edge, seen as long flake. If the burr is thick, hand lapping operations will fail to break it away from the land. Worse still, if the rifle has been fired several times, the burr becomes forged into a lump type anomaly, wedged into a groove. Fire lapping with a harsh abrasive is perhaps the best method of removal for this kind of burr.

Faults also occur within the barrel making process which nobody could have predicted and are sometimes un-measurable, unable to be found until the rifle is at the range. Stresses within the steel can be problem, as are changes of internal dimensions (stress reaction) due to properties of the barrel material which regardless of quality, have individual properties from blank to blank.

A custom barrel maker has more control over all of these processes. If you visit a custom barrel making website such as True-Flite or Lilja, a list of grades is presented, the highest usually termed ‘ultra match’. The difference between the lowest grade barrel and the highest grade barrel is reflective of two basic factors - labor content and grade. The ultra match bore is graded for either consistency or desirable traits of internal dimensions and then lapped to an optimum finish which requires time.

Ultimately, the end user has final control over the finish of the bore. If the bore is of a high finish, the bore will need nothing more than normal cleaning/de-fouling operations. If the bore is rough, it will need final finishing by hand which for want a better term is called ‘breaking in’ the barrel.
@mcche171 My own 7RM was a heavy fouler to begin and now over 2 years later and a few hundred rounds is delivering - low fouling and highly accurate results - yes i almost flicked it but @Happy bedding it an new Stainless lug and a few hundred rounds later and a forum brew fro reloading and its Shmeck!

So don't lose heart ! I also have a friend Darrin who has a barrel that he calls tight -similar issue for accuracy went town following Nathan methods and essentially hand lapping it and its come good...

I wonder how many others out there are failing on the accuracy front for similar reasons...

CD.

Plenty I'd say!
Just needs one of the above faults and away you go......straight off the paper

Had hardeys to re barrel my mod 7 and open up the bolt to a magnum face. They took a month before they sent it back to me saying they didn't want to touch it. Next thing they picked it back up from h&f and I got it back a couple months later and it wouldn't eject or fire so I sent it back. They then lost it for a couple of months and h&f wer no help at all! I eventually got it back just short of a year later and it is still a single shot. Am now head shooting deer at 300yds with it but will not be going near h&f or hardeys ever again.

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Originally Posted by jackmckinnon243

Had hardeys to re barrel my mod 7 and open up the bolt to a magnum face. They took a month before they sent it back to me saying they didn't want to touch it. Next thing they picked it back up from h&f and I got it back a couple months later and it wouldn't eject or fire so I sent it back. They then lost it for a couple of months and h&f wer no help at all! I eventually got it back just short of a year later and it is still a single shot. Am now head shooting deer at 300yds with it but will not be going near h&f or hardeys ever again.

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Hey Jack, have you been down and had a face to face meeting with the hardy crew and given the chance to see if they can put It right?
I beleive that if what you say is true there should be a resolution in there somewhere.
How long ago was this?


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bought a Hardy full carbon 6.5CM rifle myself..looks great and buying NZ
shot like shit at the range, 0.3 to 1.7 inch with the same hand loads..most over 1 inch.
sent it back and was told they used a faulty bedding compound, so they replaced it..and billed me $300 to get rifle back..
still shot the same so sent it back for a 1 in 7.5 twist barrel for 140 grains and re-bedding etc..
new barrel shot like shit...again.
phone Hardy for advice, first guy had no clue why and was going to ask Dan... still waiting for a reply.
have sold Hardy rifle and had Greg at Terminator make one with a Proof barrel, regular sub 0.5 inch and in the 0.1 when you do your bit..
would not buy Hardy rifle again, as they charged me to fix the faulty bedding they used and it still would not shoot.

Originally Posted by Kahle

bought a Hardy full carbon 6.5CM rifle myself..looks great and buying NZ
shot like shit at the range, 0.3 to 1.7 inch with the same hand loads..most over 1 inch.
sent it back and was told they used a faulty bedding compound, so they replaced it..and billed me $300 to get rifle back..
still shot the same so sent it back for a 1 in 7.5 twist barrel for 140 grains and re-bedding etc..
new barrel shot like shit...again.
phone Hardy for advice, first guy had no clue why and was going to ask Dan... still waiting for a reply.
have sold Hardy rifle and had Greg at Terminator make one with a Proof barrel, regular sub 0.5 inch and in the 0.1 when you do your bit..
would not buy Hardy rifle again, as they charged me to fix the faulty bedding they used and it still would not shoot.

Funniest thing I have read today. You better hope you never have an issue with your terminator products rifle, their idea of standing behind their work is to blame everyone / everything else and run away...........

you must mean Hardy as this is what they did..
had the wrong mag base plate which was replace by Terminator at no cost and no question...just fixed.

Originally Posted by Kahle

you must mean Hardy as this is what they did..
had the wrong mag base plate which was replace by Terminator at no cost and no question...just fixed.

How long ago was this kahle?

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Originally Posted by Kahle

you must mean Hardy as this is what they did..
had the wrong mag base plate which was replace by Terminator at no cost and no question...just fixed.

Nope Terminator Products, I do not "Jest" I have the rooted parts (replaced to repair the rifle by another gunsmith) and the bill for doing so. So I paid a lot of money for a new gun went with all their recomendation, gave them more than enough chances to sort it, in the end it was repaired by another smith at my cost.

I am getting the bolt rooted by their repair attempts to hang on the wall of my gun room to remind me that some peoples promises of "aftersales service and back up are not worth a pinch of powdered goat shit"

When did this happen @Kahle and what hardy rifle did you get?