Thread: How do I set up and use a BRH (or BDC style) reticle?

Originally Posted by MB

A question. If you zero the main crosshair on a BDC reticle at 100 metres (or whatever), then measure how high the bullet impacts when using the lower marks at the same distance, can you then calculate the distance that corresponds to each mark?

Hope that makes sense

Greetings @MB,
To a point yes. This is what I do in reverse to get a base zero for 300 and 600 yards on my 200 metre range. Based on the chronographed velocities I calculate the trajectory at 200 metres with the rifle zeroed for either range. This is around 550mm high at 200 metres for my 600 yard load. A tall target is used and the scope adjusted until the shots print the right amount high from point of aim. This works well for me, usually getting my first sighter on the range well inside the scoring rings. I prefer this way as it bypasses dialling up. I work mostly in metric and all but one of my target rifles have MoA adjustments.
Regards Grandpamac.

Originally Posted by MB

A question. If you zero the main crosshair on a BDC reticle at 100 metres (or whatever), then measure how high the bullet impacts when using the lower marks at the same distance, can you then calculate the distance that corresponds to each mark?

Hope that makes sense

Yes, but that probably introduces greater error than simply using the calculator

Some of you guys are trying really hard to make this difficult like gimp said "it's not that complicated"

I’d be interested in knowing what your average shooting distance has been up until now with the Leupold 1.25-4 VXR ?
The new Swaro will definitely help in stretching the distance a bit , but how often will you realistically encounter 450 yrd opportunities where you hunt ?
BDC reticles are mostly an educated guess when hunting where time and opportunities are short or seldom . They will never be as accurate as a deliberate thought and action process that a ballistic chart and dialing turrets will deliver.

Originally Posted by Ground Control

I’d be interested in knowing what your average shooting distance has been up until now with the Leupold 1.25-4 VXR ?
The new Swaro will definitely help in stretching the distance a bit , but how often will you realistically encounter 450 yrd opportunities where you hunt ?
BDC reticles are mostly an educated guess when hunting where time and opportunities are short or seldom . They will never be as accurate as a deliberate thought and action process that a ballistic chart and dialing turrets will deliver.

Good question.

This last year I shot three deer with the Leupold 1.25-4 VXR/308 combo (it has a 200yd zero). Two around 200yards (open tussock) outside of the bush edge and one at around 30yards (bush). I have a dedicated tops type rifle (300WSM with Swaro Z5 3.5-18 BT), but I want the ability to use the 308 in the bush and in the open stuff as well when there is a variety of terrain/vegetation during a hunt.

Besides covering Fordland bush hunting, I plan to use the 308 it in the open tussock country around Central Otago and down south. The deer that I'm seeing in the open tussock down here above the bush edge or in and around Central where there is no bush at all) are more than 200yds as a starting point and generally hard to sneak in on given the terrain (especially with a 10 year old and dog in tow), so that's why I wanted something with a bit more potential to assist in longer shots with the 308 out to 400/450yards if I can't get closer. Ideally yes, I'd be trying to get as close as possible, but that isn't always achievable. At present the 308 gets left behind more often than not as I'm exploring more open areas, so it seems a real waste to not use it.

I went for the BRH reticle option over a dial, as I wanted something lightweight and simple for the bush, but also something that allows the rifle to be used in more open terrain. Perhaps it was the wrong choice of scope?

Case in point. I'm looking at exploring a new area soon (bit of bush, but opens into quite open tussock pretty quickly) . I only have the VX-R mounted on the 308 (and the 300WSM is out of action). Now I could hunt with the VX-R and hope I can get within 200/250ish yards and used the 4 x power scope, but personally I'd feel more confident going into that area using a scope that has not only the magnification but some distance graduations to assist in aiming. Hunting opportunities for me are few and far between and I'm super time poor, so I don't want to lose or pass up an opportunity either while hunting or even not go out at all because of lower magnification and having to guess elevation beyond 200yds. I am a fairly confident shooter out to 550yards with a 7mm08 and 300WSM dialing on gongs and know the 308 is accurate, so don't want to limit its potential to just 250ish yards.

Greetings @Kimber 7mm_08,
I set up my Tikka T3 Lite with a Leupold 6x36 scope with the long range duplex a few years ago with the idea of it being an open country rifle. A load was worked up that produced 2,820 fps (860 m/sec) and zeroed for 200 metres. I ran the ballistic data and found that the first dot was on at 275 metres, the second dot at 360 metres and the top of post at 450 metres. Bracketing a deer body (say 400mm deep) from the cross wire to top of picket suggested a range of 175 metres and cross wire to second dot 288 metres. The idea of bracketing was not to estimate range so much as stopping me from taking longer shots and also stop me passing up closer shots that I had overestimated the range for. Later on I bought a rangefinder for the longer shots.
I wish I could give you a glowing report of the success of all this but to date it is untried. Unlike your time poor status I am time rich but unfortunately am fitness and mobility poor and the short armed bush walks I do are usually accompanied by my little Bergara single shot in .308. One day perhaps.
Regards Grandpamac.

I have a Z5 and use the reticle for longer shots
It is my understanding that using the reticle system is only accurate at maximum zoom because of the reticle being in the second focal plane.
It is explained in this link (and also in the booklet that came with the scope).
https://www.eurooptic.com/PDF/swarov...cle-manual.pdf

For what it’s worth, the number of time I have used it at 270, 310, 350m it has killed the animal

Originally Posted by Kelton

That’s more useful for a duplex reticle it wouldn’t be taking advantage of the hold over reticle on the scope the op is referring to

Not true, you need to know your rifles point blank capabilities. For example on my 300BLK for a 2" target my zero is 124y, and PBR is from 29 to 143y. Beyond that I start using the drops on my BDC.

Most of my rifles have BDC reticules, and I use PBR to setup my zeros based on the type of targets I will be shooting at (e.g. bunny size vs deer size). I use Strelok Pro to calculate my drops and it has a really good database of BDC reticules. You can either print out your drops or write them on your arm before a hunt with sharpie.

PBR gives you the best possible configuration before needing to use hold overs.

Originally Posted by vulcannz

Not true, you need to know your rifles point blank capabilities. For example on my 300BLK for a 2" target my zero is 124y, and PBR is from 29 to 143y. Beyond that I start using the drops on my BDC.

Most of my rifles have BDC reticules, and I use PBR to setup my zeros based on the type of targets I will be shooting at (e.g. bunny size vs deer size). I use Strelok Pro to calculate my drops and it has a really good database of BDC reticules. You can either print out your drops or write them on your arm before a hunt with sharpie.

PBR gives you the best possible configuration before needing to use hold overs.

I’m saying theirs no point moving your zero all the way out to 280 for example because it gives you a 350 pbr when using a bdc iv got a range finder as do most so 100mtr zero is sweet as in conjunction with the reticle I’m not worried about the pbr if it was a duplex reticle different story

I have 2 of these. I agree with Gimp to answer your original question & just round the numbers ie 180,240,290,330 etc. and make a little chart that can stick on a flip up lens cap or on the stock.
Once you have a animal in the crosshairs you just give it a little rise or drop to match your ranged distance.
To save confusion I like keeping my rifles zeroed at 100.
I also like to know in cm the drop distance at say 200, 300 & 350 and I use that as a cross reference in my head.
When you become fluent with these scopes [with windage and distance] they're really quick and satisfying.
p.s.If anyone is interested I also have a spare Z5 BRH 4~18 I wish to sell.

Originally Posted by Kelton

I’m saying theirs no point moving your zero all the way out to 280 for example because it gives you a 350 pbr when using a bdc iv got a range finder as do most so 100mtr zero is sweet as in conjunction with the reticle I’m not worried about the pbr if it was a duplex reticle different story

I use a rangefinder and BDC reticules too. However I know that with certain ranges I will hit within a 2 inch vertical spread if I just put the crosshairs on the target. The 100m zero method is fine, starting off with a PBR setup just means you're refining things a bit more.