Thread: How do these Warne Vertical Rings work?

These are a ball ache. Not a huge fan I gotta say. Don't go leaving the bottom side too loose or the stupid inserts fall out of the bottom (which is crap if the whole idea is a QD system). Fiddly but once they're setup they don't slip at all which is good. QD levers work well

Originally Posted by T.FOYE

These are a ball ache. Not a huge fan I gotta say. Don't go leaving the bottom side too loose or the stupid inserts fall out of the bottom (which is crap if the whole idea is a QD system). Fiddly but once they're setup they don't slip at all which is good. QD levers work well

Once adjusted and locked on the recoil plate is captive on dovetails, can't go anywhere. Note this is the 4-screw maxima version I'm referring to no the 2-screw which uses the screw as the recoil pin. Now one thing I have found is people putting these things together without really understanding or maybe taking the time to think things through and tightening the rings down with the rings on the scope pulled fully rearwards (this is not just with Warne rings). That means the scope rings can creep forward under recoil, and when things start moving that's when the inner gorilla comes out to play (it must be too loose). The rifle recoils rearwards, so the scope needs to be push forwards to engage the recoil system before final tightening - otherwise the rings will never work. I've run into this many times with rifles assembled at big stores...

If the recoil lug is falling out on the quick detach versions something isn't right? I have a couple of scopes on QD Maxima rings and apart from the extra weight they perform the same as the permanently mounted units. I don't pop the scopes off much but when I do no issue with return to zero and the bits don't fall out. The ring version pictured cannot lose the lug either, as it is captured by the lower ring screws, so someone has removed it for some reason and probably lost it. I'm not sure if you can purchase a replacement for that bit but if you're handy would not be too hard to fabricate one.

As far as making 'balls ache' I can confirm I haven't experienced that at all, and compared to some setups which are utter bastards (lightweight weaver rings with a hook on one side of the ring cap and two screws on the other that pulls the scope around to one side as you tighten them) these are actually really quick and easy to set up and achieve a straight, level and correctly set up scope. With a rail good adjustment forwards and backwards, and as I said I've never had slippage with them and never marked a scope or had them come loose. They work and they are reliable and effective. Not the lightest, and not the most fancy for the magpies amongst us.

The other point is I've never ever had to lap one of these rings, and for the record the instructions suggest to never do it anyway. The ones I've encountered that have been lapped have all failed and needed to be replaced! Lapping rings is a practice that in my opinion is only required if there is a fault in the setup, and you need to correct it. Sometimes there isn't any other way around it - receiver bases holes not in alignment front to rear is a good one but one thing that should happen in lapping rings is mark the two sets with a punch dot on the front bits and two on the back ones for example so you know what came from where if you have to reassemble it and also what way around! I've written off about four setups with lapped rings that were handed to me in bits - it's not working make it go! Bit hard when you can't line anything up and it really makes people happy when you go out and spend their money on reliable basic stuff and take the time to set things up correctly to make it go. The last time I framed the stupidly expensive ringsets that had been written off by lapping and hung them on the wall of the outfit I was working at!