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Thread: hunting stock design

  1. #46
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    Cheers for all the feedback...time to have a serious think about where I take this thing...both design and building process. A question I forgot to ask is how important the carbon finish is to people. Like PSE (https://www.pse-composites.com/) the process probably demands painting for a 1st class finish.

  2. #47
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    Yep, Edi who owns PSE is a German professional composites engineer and really knows his stuff. Some of his E-TAC stocks have won some major competitions.

    Not trying to hijack the thread but I have one of his now spare off my son's T3 which he sold:
    https://www.pse-composites.com/colle...-multi-purpose
    Fisherman likes this.

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6x47 View Post
    Yep, Edi who owns PSE is a German professional composites engineer and really knows his stuff. Some of his E-TAC stocks have won some major competitions.

    Not trying to hijack the thread but I have one of his now spare off my son's T3 which he sold:
    https://www.pse-composites.com/colle...-multi-purpose
    Unbelievable engineering in those stocks at a good price...I would give my eye teeth to walk around that factory.

  4. #49
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    For me the comb height is important for recoil control and spotting the shot with a suppressed magnum rifle. Next to impossible for me with a standard tikka stock.
    Fisherman and Moa Hunter like this.

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by McNotty View Post
    For me the comb height is important for recoil control and spotting the shot with a suppressed magnum rifle. Next to impossible for me with a standard tikka stock.
    How have you achieved that...a different stock or a cheek riser?

  6. #51
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    Have been thinking of giving the home made carbon stock a go myself. Once you have your two halves how do you do the stock fill and in letting? What materials do you use?

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robojaz View Post
    Have been thinking of giving the home made carbon stock a go myself. Once you have your two halves how do you do the stock fill and in letting? What materials do you use?
    Its a bit of a process that and the real effort is making the mold. I think West epoxies and 413 microfibre are the way to go.
    https://www.westsystem.com/403-microfibers/

  8. #53
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    It's not really a 'home made' stock unless you dig the coal and process it into carbon fiber in your garage. Like cutting a bough off a Walnut tree and seasoning it compared to buying an in-letted blank.

  9. #54
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    Sako 75 stock design would suit most people, and most shooting positions.

    Name:  ABC7BB09-3878-4EAC-A523-51FC5E6E45DE.jpeg
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    Fisherman and Moa Hunter like this.
    A big fast bullet beats a little fast bullet every time

  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7mmsaum View Post
    Sako 75 stock design would suit most people, and most shooting positions.

    Attachment 123274
    I need to get hold of one...

  11. #56
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    I put my brno 601 delux on top of my sako 75 to compare as I like them both for fit and comfort
    The similarities are strong between these two

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fisherman View Post
    How have you achieved that...a different stock or a cheek riser?
    With a cheek riser, but an adjustable stock would be nice though. Gets the job done so not too worried.

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fisherman View Post
    I need to get hold of one...
    I have a synthetic one I can sell you . Pm me if you want

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Friwi View Post
    I have a synthetic one I can sell you . Pm me if you want
    I'll keep it in mind thanks Friwi...It might be easier to buy a complete rifle (then rebarrel it to 284)

    I pretty much finished the first stock yesterday (half a dozen to do in the draw) with my new process and its 500 grams...that's with the recoil pad to come.
    I hope to knock another 50 grams or so off that so target weight is 500 or below with a factory recoil pad (which will transfer directly across from the factory stock) Having said that strength and durability have to be more important than the lightest weight possible...but the tradeoff can be a choice for different applications.
    WillB likes this.

  15. #60
    Full of shit Ryan_Songhurst's Avatar
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    Have a manners EH8 on my bergara and I reckon it's a real good shape, has just enough rise through the comb to make it comfortable for eye relief and cheek weld and manages to keep its "classic lines" (I reckon big stick on cheek risers look damn retarded)
    Its light and forend makes it comfortable for off hand shooting.
    Name:  20191104_075731.jpg
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Size:  4.41 MB
    270 is a harmonic divisor number[1]
    270 is the fourth number that is divisible by its average integer divisor[2]
    270 is a practical number, by the second definition
    The sum of the coprime counts for the first 29 integers is 270
    270 is a sparsely totient number, the largest integer with 72 as its totient
    Given 6 elements, there are 270 square permutations[3]
    10! has 270 divisors
    270 is the smallest positive integer that has divisors ending by digits 1, 2, …, 9.

 

 

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