Thread: JW 15 - tips, tricks and modifications

If anyone's after one I have a jw15 sitting around doing sfa.
PM if you're interested.

***WARNING***

For future readers I thought that this may be of interest...

I was looking for a cheap .22LR for shooting rabbits on the farm and teaching my son to shoot.

I spent A LOT of time on various online forums (NZ and overseas) researching the Norinco JW15.

Overall, the reviews/opinions were positive with a few exceptions.

Mudgripz offered plenty of sound advice on getting them to shoot very well.

So...I went to the local gun store a purchased a Norinco JW15 and several ammo types.

I stripped the rifle and removed all the Chinese grease. I noted that the crown wasn't flash but didn't have the tools on hand to tidy it up.

I LIGHTLY polished and oiled the working parts then took it out for a zero.

OMG it was HORRIFIC!

At 50m, the BEST group I could manage was around 2" (YES...I removed parallax).

I regularly shoot 1000m+ so I was confident I was doing my bit.

I tried various other ammo types and made sure the bolts that hold the receiver were tight.

Still no joy...SO, I took the gun back to the shop.

They shot it and could not get it to group better than 3" - 4". They also took 2 other Norinco's out to compare.

1 was another brand new one, the other was 12 months old and had just been traded (sold 12 months earlier by same shop).

Both the NEW Norinco's shot poorly!

The second hand JW shot 1" at 50 without trying to hard!

He gave the rifles another look over and noticed that the older JW had Norinco JW15 stamped on the barrel.

The two new ones only had JW15 stamped on them.

The gun shop owner had recently taken possession of the two new Norinco's from GC so he is not impressed and intends to send them back.

It looks like there are some JW15 "pretenders" out there...and they are awful!

So...luckily the local gun store owner offered to replace my Norinco with a genuine one but after this incident, I just couldn't bring myself to do it...

So...I grabbed a Marlin XT22 instead. Fingers crossed this thing will shoot better than 2" @ 50m.

So...IF YOU STILL WANT A JW15...make sure it is stamped with NORINCO on the barrel. If not...walk away.

I hope this saves some folks a headache!

I saw a cheap (~$100) jw15 at sai second hand rack. I may buy it as I'm not so keen to pull apart my functioning one.

the cz 452 trigger kit.
Taking it apart and polishing the action.
Attempt to free float the barrel.

Would these be worth doing. Have done anything like this before but I am keen to have a go and maybe try to make my current one better as it doesn't group nearly as good as your ones although it's acceptable.

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Never found floating the barrel on a 22rf to make any difference

Originally Posted by northdude

Never found floating the barrel on a 22rf to make any difference

Ok. I'll probably just give the trigger and polish a go

Anyone have any suggestions on how you go about deciding on what spring and shims you use when installing the trigger kit

Originally Posted by Russian 22.

Ok. I'll probably just give the trigger and polish a go

Anyone have any suggestions on how you go about deciding on what spring and shims you use when installing the trigger kit

I think the jw trigger is completely different from the cz one

I usually use 1200/1400 wet and dry and just polish the areas where the trigger and sear touch and the area where the sear touches the cocking part in the bolt be very carefull not to change any angles go slow and trial fit and test as you go if your not to sure less would be better if you havnt done this type of thing before

Originally Posted by Chilli_Dog

I think the jw trigger is completely different from the cz one

Bugger. Anything worth doing to the trigger apart from the polish?

Originally Posted by northdude

I usually use 1200/1400 wet and dry and just polish the areas where the trigger and sear touch and the area where the sear touches the cocking part in the bolt be very carefull not to change any angles go slow and trial fit and test as you go if your not to sure less would be better if you havnt done this type of thing before

Thanks man. So I'm mainly just trying to take sharp edges off and smooth the moving parts right?

yep if its a second hand rifle that's had a bit of work it might of had the edges worn off if its gritty feeling its usually burrs on the mating surfaces be carefull as some firearms will have case hardened parts and you can go through the hardening

The usual disclaimers, dont do any of this but Here is what I did to mine, I smoothed the sear face (blue arrow) with a fine diamond lap, the top of the sear in mine was pretty rough and had very rounded corners so didnt have much engagement in the firing pin so I flattened off the top (red arrow) so it was straight. I made a different trigger so I was easy to make sure I had enough engagement with the reduced height sear, it may not be the best idea to do this with the standard setup. It has been mentioned that a shim (beer can) can be put under the ejector plate to take out some of the slop in the bolt (black arrow). My receiver was very cut up where the set screw in the trigger ran so that was cleaned up as well (that probably made the biggest difference). On the bolt I smoothed out the flats on the front bottom of the bolt (red arrows) as well as the protrusion that picks up the round from the magazine. I also deburred the slot along the bottom where the firing pin runs. I took out the extractors and gave them a little bit of a clean up and deburr so they moved freely. The firing pin I cleaned up the surface that runs over the sear and the cam face that runs on the bolt handle, I didnt touch the piece that hooks on the sear (black arrow).

If you do any thing you really need to make sure that it can be accidentally discharged due to too light a trigger spring or not enough sear engagement

Thanks so much chilli dog. That's awesome. Next Saturday I'll hit up sai and get cracking.

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