Good luck! I might find inspiration to copy your work! (Probably not, too lazy)
Good luck! I might find inspiration to copy your work! (Probably not, too lazy)
Further shaping with rasps... time for the first weighin
I may hollow out the forend and the butt to bring the weight down. I figure Ill gain a bunch with the resin in the carbon so lets get it as light as possible first. this timber has good structural strength and is very resistant to snapping... it does need an outer coat tho as it marks easy.
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Im down to 600 grams which is a good start. 500g will be an easy target so I may aim for 450g before the carbon process.
The stock I did for my grendel has just had a bit of resin rubbed into the surface to reduce scratching. I may just carbon wrap the wrist on the grendel yet.
yes thats a beef heart on the bench for dinner lol.
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now for the trickey stuff
You got some skills there,watching with interest.
Just playing with a bit of walnut stain. Shaped another few grams off it. sitting about 500g at present. Im worried the carbon will soak up too much resin and make it heavier than Id like. however half the issue and the more important one is to fit the tikka bottom to it so I can have greator than a single shot. I could just put a coat of resin over the timber and that would give me a much harder surface, yes it would not be as hard as carbon and resin together... Your thoughts guys?
Thicken the resin up with some Wests powder, it won't soak into the wood nearly as much. I'd still soak that wood in that stain too, to try and keep it moisture resistant. Also the carbon wrap is essential in my opinion. Carbon adds great rigidity and will stop it from bowing or snapping too easily. Apply a coat of resin and let it harden until you can touch it and it will not come away on your finger. (Still sticky) apply the carbon wrap and leave to go off. Brush on another coat of resin over the top, harden, then sand and seal with a clear paint etc.
Last edited by FRST; 25-08-2021 at 05:14 PM.
"That is ever the way of the Highlander. He alters like a clear pool to every mood of the sky, so that the shallow observer knows not how deep the waters are."
I reckon you might have a bit of fun getting a M96 controlled feed action to feed from a single stack tikka mag. Not saying it can't be done but I'd say there's going to be some fluffing about with mag spring tension and getting the cartridge to hit the feed ramp and surrounds at the right moment to make it pop onto the bolt face correctly etc, been a while since I had my hands on a M96 but I assume like most Mauser types it won't like poor feeding much and will break/damage extractors even if it feels like it's working but is having to push the extractor over the cartridge rim as it goes into battery
Note: just re-read first few posts and see it's a 1900 action you are using, which I am unfamiliar with, dunno where I got the M96 idea from... As you were
Last edited by Ryan_Songhurst; 25-08-2021 at 06:32 PM.
270 is a harmonic divisor number[1]
270 is the fourth number that is divisible by its average integer divisor[2]
270 is a practical number, by the second definition
The sum of the coprime counts for the first 29 integers is 270
270 is a sparsely totient number, the largest integer with 72 as its totient
Given 6 elements, there are 270 square permutations[3]
10! has 270 divisors
270 is the smallest positive integer that has divisors ending by digits 1, 2, …, 9.
Awesome advice, Ill try track some down. Thanks for your input.
Blessings
Scott
yep, this is a pushfeed, but its going to be a task to get it to line up all the same. thanks for commenting
I figured I had to cut the bottom down after measuring the distance needed to get the mag close enough to pick up the round
Got it aligned alright, just need to bring the back down a few mils so the bolt can pick up the round, at present it slides clen over the top
Not bad fitting for a massive bit on a dye grinder. Dremel would be handy lol. Not that it matters as it wll all be covered with carbon...
the gap at the back was due to me having to push it forward a couple mils to allow the bolt to slide to the rear enough to catch the round when hard against the bolt stop
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