Was thinking about adding some loctite to stop stuff coming loose. Anyone know if Loctite #243 is the right stuff for firearms ?
Or ???
Thanks.
Was thinking about adding some loctite to stop stuff coming loose. Anyone know if Loctite #243 is the right stuff for firearms ?
Or ???
Thanks.
I hope it is as that's what I use!
Sarcasm: lowest from of wit, highest form of intelligence.
Yep 243 is the one I have always used not just on firearms but for general engineering as well. Medium strength and can be removed with tools. No heat required which is the case with the higher strength ones.
Is loctite calibre specific, I dont own a 243 so would it work on my 308?
Thanks all
OK, we use it a lot at work.
For std screw locking and retaining the ability to remove the screws again, loctite 222.
For med screw locking and able to remove but stuffs the screws or threaded base, use loctite 243.
For full power screw locking and not a ffffing chance or removing easily, use loctite 263
However, a trick in trade (but I wouldn't reccomend on a scope) you can remove 243 and 263 by heating the joint up with a hot air gun up to 150deg C. This will break the loctite.
If using Stainless screws in Aluminum material, you need to add some loctite primer (7274) to the screws first.
Don't put Loctite on ring screws, just bases etc.
If it turns pear shaped scopes aren't that keen on heat
Contact me for reloading components, brass, projectiles, powder, primers, etc
http://terminatorproducts.co.nz/
http://www.youtube.com/user/Terminat...?feature=guide
I used 243 on my gas block and hoped the heat wouldn't reduce it's strength, needn't have worried
Yeh on one hunt to the Godley a guy in our team discovered his bases loose - bloody criminal. I use loctite on base screws, sometimes cross screws but never ever ring screws. Also, after I fit a scope and fire the rifle I recheck with ring screws with the torque wrench again. BTW if you do use loctite 243 on the ring screws nothing as dramatic as heating would be required to undo them just a very correctly fitting screwdriver, something that a lot of people obviously don't have when you look at the state of screws on second hand rifles in gun shops.
I never torque screws or bolts (those not being loctited) dry - bad practice. Always lube the threads and shoulders be they bolts, cap screws, shoulder screws etc.
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