Thread: Long range blued barrel hunters.

Originally Posted by Tentman

You haven't struck a barrel with an oil ring then?

A natural consequence of stupidity. If you have enough brains to clean a barrel you should have enough to wipe it out.

Stupidity or totally new to all this and dont know these things

Originally Posted by Brad S

No. To be truthful I have no idea what I'm talking about, and haven't yet learned how I should care for my lovely new old L61R when it arrives in my mailbox next week

Ive PM'd you this to get you started for when it arrives (others will have other ideas -brace yourself :

Take the action out of the stock and clean away any dirt or rust from the underside and mechanism. A toothbrush is useful. There are plenty of good gun oils available but use sparingly. When you put the stock back on tighten the screws firmly but not over-tight and the same pressure on each. Don't burr the screw slots.

Clean the bolt. Clean the actual bolt face with the toothbrush.

Oil all the metal outside surfaces lightly.

Buy a cleaning rod, a bristle brush (not a brass one - I prefer nylon)) and a rod patch holder. You will need a roll of patch cloth which you cut to size or pre cut patches. Buy a bottle of Hoppes number 9 solvent.

Soak a patch with the Hoppes and swab the barrel with it (from the breech end - never the muzzle end). Leave it for a few minutes and then give it a scrub with the bristle patch. Push a clean patch through and then repeat as prior.
After you have done this a couple of times or more (depending on how dirty the barrel is) give it one last swab with Hoppes on a patch, leave a few minutes and then use new patches until they come out clean.

If the dirt is stubborn you might need to use a brass bristle brush but I avoid their use if I can.

My ongoing maintenance is an outside oil after every hunt. I put a bore snake through my rifle after every hunt. If you use one keep it clean and make sure it doesn't run on the barrel crown as you pull it through. I do a full clean a couple of times a year depending on the use.

That should get you started.

Good write up Tahr. The only thing I would add is I do the final action/barrel assembly to stock with the rifle vertical. This ensures the recoil lug is fully back.

A word on patchs thru barrel,just try one for a start,if you feel it can take 2 patchs at a time,try two.If still loose you may got to 3 patchs.But dont put 3 patchs thru 1st time.If you gota push too hard to get them thru you could have a big problem if they jam down yr barrel.I found different brands of patchs are different thicknesses can get you jammed down the barrel or bend yr cleaning rod.

Ive found a brass throttle body cleaning brush is good for cleaning bolt face and lugs etc.

Brads new rifle shouldnt need a full on deep clean......its recent history through others from forums grubby mitts should have done that bit more than once.

I go hunting.shooting..rifle gets wet patch of clp....on a spear jag (great bit of kit) then couple or three dry patches,till coming out clean,then another LIGHTLY clp rag,lightly as it two or three drops.
and if you push rag through with speer jag,turn it over and poke it back through.... the outside gets rub down with oily rag..bit of 4x4 cloth that sits on bench for that reason..another inside cabinet for my fingerprints on barrels as putting them away...thats it.
might get deep clean as Tahr discribes so well once every couple or three years.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

Brads new rifle shouldnt need a full on deep clean......its recent history through others from forums grubby mitts should have done that bit more than once.

I go hunting.shooting..rifle gets wet patch of clp....on a spear jag (great bit of kit) then couple or three dry patches,till coming out clean,then another LIGHTLY clp rag,lightly as it two or three drops.
and if you push rag through with speer jag,turn it over and poke it back through.... the outside gets rub down with oily rag..bit of 4x4 cloth that sits on bench for that reason..another inside cabinet for my fingerprints on barrels as putting them away...thats it.
might get deep clean as Tahr discribes so well once every couple or three years.

Yeah. He's starting with an "old sako finnbear, which hasn't been fired for a few months".

It was Dannyb's finnbear:
https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....opement-95515/
https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....ies-etc-98093/

I found out through the grapevine that the person Danny sold it to would sell again, it was sitting in said persons gun safe unused since he bought it from Dannyb. An established forum member who's username I probably shouldn't reveal. So it hasn't been fired since Dannyb owned it 3 months ago. This is my first centrefire, and I intend to hunt with it. I would hate to do something that would damage such a rifle, so thank you for the advice Tahr.

Originally Posted by Brad S

It was Dannyb's finnbear:
https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....opement-95515/
https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....ies-etc-98093/

I found out through the grapevine that the person Danny sold it to would sell again, it was sitting in said persons gun safe unused since he bought it from Dannyb. An established forum member who's username I probably shouldn't reveal. So it hasn't been fired since Dannyb owned it 3 months ago. This is my first centrefire, and I intend to hunt with it. I would hate to do something that would damage such a rifle, so thank you for the advice Tahr.

Yeah follow Tahr's advise doesn't matter if it's new or second hand get in the habbit of taking it out of the stock and giving everything a good clean before you try sight in, can sure save a lot of heartache and time.

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If it has copper in the bore HOPPES #9 will not move it. You’ll need a copper removal product.


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Originally Posted by Dicko

If it has copper in the bore HOPPES #9 will not move it. You’ll need a copper removal product.


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Yeah. It does remove some. But not a heavy burden. I doubt this will be the case now knowing the rifle.