FFP scopes don't all have heavy reticles. That's why you do lots of research to get the scope that suits what you want to do with it. That, plus experience will aid in your decision making. No scope will cover all the bases !
FFP scopes don't all have heavy reticles. That's why you do lots of research to get the scope that suits what you want to do with it. That, plus experience will aid in your decision making. No scope will cover all the bases !
The FFP scopes have these days become way more widespread for the various LR scenarios because the reticle hash marks subtend the SAME distance at the target at all magnification powers. So 1 MOA hash marks on the scopes horizontal bar will stay at 1 MOA spacing at all magnifications which is perfect for quick holdovers and POI spotting at whatever range you are shooting at.
The SFP scope will only subtend a true MOA or MIL distance at the target at ONE magnification power, normally the highest power.
So for LR shooting the likes of the NF 5.5-22 scope can be perfect, even though it's SFP, as the reticle hash marks become true at 22 power and 22 power is a great magnification for a broad range of LR shooting.
My current favourite LR scope is a FFP March which has a fine reticle ( because it's designed for shooters who will use the scope on the higher powers ) so I can crank it up to 40 power if necessary. But a FFP scope with a fine reticle is near useless at close range in darker conditions because it becomes bloody hard to see the reticle.
Horses for courses ......
Shooting up and down hills changes the amount of elevation required, but its not enough at 50m for him to miss his target. Depending on if shooting up or down hill, the corrected distance would be like 45 to 55meters so probably less than a 1/4" variance in point of impact due to shooting up or down hill at that distance.
Iv got a sweet little widget on my long range rig called an angle co-sign indicator. Its doesnt tell an angle, it tells an angle co-sign. Which means it takes less steps to manually work out the corrected distance to target as you don't need to get your Pythagoras on. Its just distance to target x angle cosign (eg 500m x 0.98 = corrected distance of 490m).
Also I dont quite agree with the FFP covering lots of the target assuming the reticle is properly setup to work with the scopes magnification range. For example my tremor3 reticle has a center dot of 0.05mil, which will cover 5mm at 100m or 5cm at 1000m. I would wager that a SFP scopes reticle/dot/line thickness or whatever will cover more than 5cm at 1000m.
I guess this is one point of view. I hold a very different opinion on FFP vs SFP and Mil vs MOA.
All but 1 of my scopes are FFP Mil/Mil, the SFP MOA scope that I do have is a good scope (Leupold VX5 3-15) but my preference for anything where dialling and longer ranges are involved is FFP Mil. That's why the VX5 is on my 17hmr...
I get lost with MOA unless I can see my shot and measure the adjustment in my reticle. If I know the range I'm shooting, I know precisely what each click in a mil adjust scope equates to as its 1/1000th of the distance in metres (so 478m = 4.78cm per click etc)
I have no issue with the reticle obscuring the target in a FFP scope either. I currently have three different brands of scopes/reticles and all are great (Kahles SKMR3, March FML-1 and Athlon APLR3) and haven't had problems with the various others that I have owned.
I think the actual answer is that you need to make an effort to try as many options as you can first hand as everyone's eyes/brains are different, so what one person understands or finds perfect won't necessarily suit you
If it's not a first round hit you need to practice more
Yes it is all opinions and preferences.. my experience went from a SFP MOA scope to a FFP mil scope... I will never go back.
MOA MOA for me, but doesn’t really matter which really as both are just angles. As other say, it’s easy to overthink this, but you can just think in clicks and have a drop chart taped to your stock. I don’t like busy reticles and measuring adjustments using mil dots isn’t my thing.
This is a very good point.
The drop charts I use are created only after I have validated the drops at 300m and 500m usually, 250m and 350m for the .223. But when I do the charts will bias the outcome. I'm usually pretty good at remembering to set the climate and altitude.
Last week one cold morning I started missing at 540m after going well for the two hours prior at ~250-450m. Why? It wasn't that cold, but it could be up to 14-16°C cooler than when I did the drop chart. That's over 6" at 540m. I will recreate these charts with a median temperature for winter and summer. BTW despite their limitations, when its all on and you need to dial different ranges in quickly, a drop table is bloody helpful, better than cocking around with the phone.
Just...say...the...word
Sig Sauer 2400ABS
Yes your dead right there Tussock dialing is the easy part, wind is much harder to account for.
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