Last edited by Spudattack; 25-01-2022 at 09:43 AM.
"Here's the deal I'm the best there is. Plain and simple. I wake up in the morning and I piss excellence."
I use steel or brass spacers cut to shape under the base to raise it up enough. Always works l
Buy a scope with 80moa to 100moa.Theres some good $500 scopes around.Save you the cost of ammo buggering around with yr present low moa scope.
20 moa rail and any weaver style ring
scopes on sideways, rotate it so there is a windage on the right hand side
down is taking you right at the mo
have bought some zero lok nikko rings and the difference is .5mm in height between them and the talleys.using my laser bore sighter i can now get it more or less zeroed with more adjustment to go . will hit the range in friday and have a play
@sig4x4 Could you please post a closeup picture of your new setup.
been in his situation in the past with a scope . . nice scope just not enough elevation, eventually it was sold for a 30mm tube with enough elevation.
i like the idea of when the scope is zeroed your right in the middle or very close to the optical centre of the reticles travel . . takes a wee bit of fcking around but worth it to me.
i use Burris Z rings mostly with the oval plastic inserts . . you can correct windage as well as elevation with extra inserts available in different amounts of Cant.
Theyre not cheap but its done properly, using bits of tin cans and bending your scope ( which does work ) seems not such a good idea to a optical device.
good luck . . R
without a picture . .. it never happened !
Whn i buy any new scope i dial it to the bottom of elevation,dial and count to the top of elevation.Dial back down half yr count.Some scopes have more or less than what specs say.
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