Thread: Oiled stock

Schrell or balsin stock oil - suspect they might be the same. Workshop innovation have the latter

You may find your Sako is finished with a polymerized oil similar to tru-oil that will have sealed it and traditional oils like boiled linseed will sit on top of the current finish, effectively doing nothing. Ask Sako directly what they finished the stock with

Just keep all this out of your checkering!
It will just clog it up otherwise

See if you can beat this finish.

Woodstocks Amazin' Stock Finish & photos - RimfireCentral.com Forums

Yep I followed that recipe, takes a few layers. But it comes up like a clear coated gun stock. The top rifles took about a week of fluffing with every night.
The bottom picture took about 1/2 an hr as I wanted to leave it non shiny

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gidday mate - I bought a new sako 85 in 270 W last year- I use what I've always used 1 part boiled linseed to 4 parts mineral turpentine
I find that this penetrates in and seems to keep the stock in ship- shape
I also took the rifle down and coated the barrel channel and inletting area with marine spar polyurethane

Ive had great results with tru oil on an unfinished new stock. I have a Browning now and will strip the finish and re oil . Good to see guys getting back to timber.

Based on my experiences working as a surface coatings chemist for several years, Raw linseed or tung oil should be avoided, Boiled Linseed oil is fine for decorative pieces(those that never get wet) but will not seal wood against water. The finish will turn slightly milky when wet.
Spar varnish type products like true oil are linseed or tung oil that have been reacted with phenolic resin glycerine and acid, they are truly waterproof and probably the best for redoing a working rifle unless you have access to high end two pack factory sealers and finishes.

Originally Posted by Marty Henry

Based on my experiences working as a surface coatings chemist for several years, Raw linseed or tung oil should be avoided, Boiled Linseed oil is fine for decorative pieces(those that never get wet) but will not seal wood against water. The finish will turn slightly milky when wet.
Spar varnish type products like true oil are linseed or tung oil that have been reacted with phenolic resin glycerine and acid, they are truly waterproof and probably the best for redoing a working rifle unless you have access to high end two pack factory sealers and finishes.

Correct, I have done one or two stocks over the years and no longer use linseed oil but use Danish oil without the shiny finish.

So with the above linked method, is the armorall acting as the phenolic resin glycerene? When you start doing the rubbing on it does go a little milky but that goes away as you keep rubbing, it seems pretty durable and i have had no water marks come through.

Armour all is from memory a carnuba wax based compound that may contain silicone for better water repellency. Wax finishes on their own only last a short time on timber before they wear off. The wood needs to be sealed first for them to last. Attempting to oil or varnish over wax is unsucessful as the wax prevents the finish from drying properly leaving a sticky mess.