Thread: Picked up new rifle today.

I haven't got access too much int he way of reloading components right now, but a mate came through with some cases and primers, and another mate helped me out with some ar2209 and some 130gr Speer Hotcores.
We quickly worked up a load today- it was brief due to shortage of components, so I started with my old favourite of around 53.5 grains. At 54 we stopped as I had 3100fps and it was grouping at 17mm. I think there is a bit more in the tank still but thats a decent hunting load for now with a relatively cheap but proven hunting projectile.

I am looking forward to experimenting with a premium projectile at a later stage though.

bluecod has some of the hogdgon version of 2213 for sale at good price.... great stuff for the mighty .270w still plenty of projectiles around too.
premium projectile...yeah nah..maybe a sample pack of 150grn partitions for special trip,but the basic pills just work so well I CANNOT FOR LIFE OF ME see reason to change to something flasherer and more spendy.

Cheers Micky! Think Im all sorted now.

A question for th knowledgable.

The instruction manual suggests using a Torque wrench to the action screws and gives the appropriate torque settings for each screw. Any recommendations on a brand that wont bust the bank? Allen heads on screws

No. There's no such thing as a new 'good cheap' torque wrench. Anything cheap new is that for a reason. Inconsistency, which is not good for what you are doing. There are specialist firearms torque wrenches out there.

Try to look around for a secondhand unit that is fairly new. You only want 1/4 or 3/8 drive for that job.

Look for a 'Blue Point' or 'Snap On'. Thats my fav brand and there are deals out there. I picked up a blue point 1/2 rattle gun the other day for $100

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

bluecod has some of the hogdgon version of 2213 for sale at good price.... great stuff for the mighty .270w still plenty of projectiles around too.
premium projectile...yeah nah..maybe a sample pack of 150grn partitions for special trip,but the basic pills just work so well I CANNOT FOR LIFE OF ME see reason to change to something flasherer and more spendy.

It is not 'for the life of you' that a premium projectile should be used @Micky Duck, it is 'for the humane quick death of the deer'. The following link put up by Russian 22 can be followed to an article on projectile testing done here in NZ https://web.archive.org/web/20130208....nz/howto.html. The big heavy round-nose projectiles were worst at through scrub deflection. Swift Sirrocco came out best all round. Well worth reading as there is a lot more than what I have written here

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

It is not 'for the life of you' that a premium projectile should be used @Micky Duck, it is 'for the humane quick death of the deer'. The following link put up by Russian 22 can be followed to an article on projectile testing done here in NZ https://web.archive.org/web/20130208....nz/howto.html. The big heavy round-nose projectiles were worst at through scrub deflection. Swift Sirrocco came out best all round. Well worth reading as there is a lot more than what I have written here

Norma did a deflection test years ago too using dowels. Round nose performed no better than spire point.

Originally Posted by Tahr

Norma did a deflection test years ago too using dowels. Round nose performed no better than spire point.

Well we will have to see if MD will consume humble pie ( as he should in this case

Originally Posted by Tahr

Norma did a deflection test years ago too using dowels. Round nose performed no better than spire point.

And Graham Henry also did a test and found the nice pointy type projectiles actually performed better both in the dowel test and in some actual scrub tests.

To be honest, Ive always had an aversion to shooting through scrub anyway. Patience is a virtue, as is picking your shot. Ill go for a head or neck before I put a projectile through obstructions.

Originally Posted by whanahuia

To be honest, Ive always had an aversion to shooting through scrub anyway. Patience is a virtue, as is picking your shot. Ill go for a head or neck before I put a projectile through obstructions.

Sometimes though, even after picking shot and being careful the bullet hits a bit of scrub not seen against shadow so given the choice I would try to pick a bullet that performs well in all situations. What is the twist rate ?

Yep I know it cant be avoided at times. Twist rate is 1/10

well you dont have to use a round nose to use a basic cup n core..I use a round nose because its 170 GRAINS...... and it will stabilise and group nicely in a 1;10 twist...
my other loads are all pointy ones..... again I cant see the point of a spendy projectile when a cheaper one does such a good job..the dead boring 140grn interloct in particular is just so boring,chucked together a load and it shoots sub inch,boring no need for 200 rounds of testing to find group,how boring, deer out to 350ish yards shot through crease or shoulders just fall over dead in short time after being hit,how boring... they even look boring.
and i HAVE actually shot a big red hind through vegetation with said round nose,but it was only a mikimiki bush and she was close to it,eg less than meter behind it AND FULLY VISIBLE other than the shoulder bit I wanted to,and did poke hole through.

Originally Posted by whanahuia

Cheers Micky! Think Im all sorted now.

A question for th knowledgable.

The instruction manual suggests using a Torque wrench to the action screws and gives the appropriate torque settings for each screw. Any recommendations on a brand that wont bust the bank? Allen heads on screws

Me and Jethro have one each that you could use

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

well you dont have to use a round nose to use a basic cup n core..I use a round nose because its 170 GRAINS...... and it will stabilise and group nicely in a 1;10 twist...
my other loads are all pointy ones..... again I cant see the point of a spendy projectile when a cheaper one does such a good job..the dead boring 140grn interloct in particular is just so boring,chucked together a load and it shoots sub inch,boring no need for 200 rounds of testing to find group,how boring, deer out to 350ish yards shot through crease or shoulders just fall over dead in short time after being hit,how boring... they even look boring.
and i HAVE actually shot a big red hind through vegetation with said round nose,but it was only a mikimiki bush and she was close to it,eg less than meter behind it AND FULLY VISIBLE other than the shoulder bit I wanted to,and did poke hole through.

Yep there are some very good and proven older projectiles out there. Cor lokts were awesome. Interloct still work as well as the day they first came on market. Hot core have been around along time for a reason too. When I get the chance to do more development ill look at ELDX or Accubonds etc for a longer range load, but Im pretty sure the older ones will do for most all the situations I intend them for.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

well you dont have to use a round nose to use a basic cup n core..I use a round nose because its 170 GRAINS...... and it will stabilise and group nicely in a 1;10 twist...
my other loads are all pointy ones..... again I cant see the point of a spendy projectile when a cheaper one does such a good job..the dead boring 140grn interloct in particular is just so boring,chucked together a load and it shoots sub inch,boring no need for 200 rounds of testing to find group,how boring, deer out to 350ish yards shot through crease or shoulders just fall over dead in short time after being hit,how boring... they even look boring.
and i HAVE actually shot a big red hind through vegetation with said round nose,but it was only a mikimiki bush and she was close to it,eg less than meter behind it AND FULLY VISIBLE other than the shoulder bit I wanted to,and did poke hole through.

Did you read the article ? It makes a very strong case for using a good bonded projectile. The 270 is on of those rounds that really tests projectiles because the initial muzzle velocity is higher that ideal for cup and core type bullets. If I pay $140 per projectile instead of $.70 it is only a difference of $.70 per shot extra and I can absolutely be sure that out of say seventy shots at game from a box of one hundred bullets I will have more humane kills with the bonded bullets and recover more meat as well. With meat at near $20 for beef mince, one extra deer per box of projectiles and less meat wasted with bullets that pass through makes the bonded projectiles effectively 'Free'.
I used to love the Winny Powerpoints, and they are good, but damage meat and are not good enough for stags