Thanks for all the tips, as far as dents and scrapes I won’t be removing them as a lot of you guys have said that’s history.i will be sure to upload some photos when I get around to having a go at it.
Thanks for all the tips, as far as dents and scrapes I won’t be removing them as a lot of you guys have said that’s history.i will be sure to upload some photos when I get around to having a go at it.
I was going to mention this anyway but afaik, the danger comes when cotton rags soaked in linseed oil have caused fires through spontaneous combustion, so best not throw them in the wheely bin. I'm not sure if using boiled linseed makes a difference to this. The last time I stripped a stock prior to refinishing it was with the green jell paint stripper we used to be able to get, not sure what is out there now. Use a tooth brush to clean out the checkering & rather than steel wool, some of the very fine grades of scotch brite type pads work very well.
Hunt safe, look after the bush & plug more pests. The greatest invention in the history of man is beer.
https://youtu.be/2v3QrUvYj-Y
A bit more bang is better.
I've refurbished 3 now. All BLO and very happy with the results.
As mentioned, think alot, do little.
A bit of turps is good first couple of applications.
I did what this bloke does. He knows his stuff. There is about 10 short videos IIRC
https://youtu.be/eEBBc7O8nYQ?si=ywyqyk8SLO6zIx1S
Hunt safe, look after the bush & plug more pests. The greatest invention in the history of man is beer.
https://youtu.be/2v3QrUvYj-Y
A bit more bang is better.
Boiled linseed oil dries faster than raw linseed. Sometimes raw linseed takes months to dry - which isnt helpful.
Use a thinner on the first few coats then go straight oil. Hand burnish , use a heat gun to warm the stock and the oil if needed .
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