Thread: Remington accuracy

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

that sort of rules out a couple of things...scope slipping forwards/backwards will do the verticle string thing.
projectile holes are round??? so its not a case of keyholing stuffed barrel.....
there are a couple of good local gunsmiths who could check it over for you.
20cm is shocking....maybe get someone else to try a group of 5 and see if it miraculusly shrinks group to 2"
one other thing...are you holding forestock or letting it move on rest????

I had an issue with my scope moving in the rings under recoil had some oil in there, removed the scope cleaned scope and rings with brake cleaner and used some grip on the adjacent mating surfaces and it was fine after that.

Check the scope rings and based. I have a rem 700 in. 243 that was shooting like a bag of crap like yours. Changed to a set of talleys. Rifle now shoots 3/4" groups with handloads.

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Is your barrel clean? And how do you clean it? Do you use some sort of copper remover?

Is there any burr on the crown?

Free floating the barrel should help and checking that there is not too much negative tension on the action when torquing the bedding screws .

When you shoot from A bench, get sand bags on front and the back ( you can make your own out of trousers leggings and cat litter) and try shooting by holding the forehand with your weak hand if other form of shooting don't quite work.
If you are not 100% confident with your shooting, get someone else more experienced to shoot it for you.
Give a try to the Winchester deer season ammo, I found them to shoot extremely well in the last few guns I tried.

Shoot the rifle with out the suppressor. And also try with the suppressor on but with out its rear bush.

See how it goes.

them rings look like the $20 alloy specials from bottom drawer......but if they arent moving,they shouldnt be an issue.

Before you start making any drastic changes, get a mate (preferably one that consistently shoots good groups) to shoot the rifle, and also try it without the suppressor.

If that does not make a difference, find someone on here close to you that has a torque screw driver, and check the action screws, bases and ring screws.

Also would not hurt trying different ammo, maybe something lighter or heavier than your current bullet. Sometimes rifles just don't like a particular load.

Originally Posted by ebf

Before you start making any drastic changes, get a mate (preferably one that consistently shoots good groups) to shoot the rifle, and also try it without the suppressor.

If that does not make a difference, find someone on here close to you that has a torque screw driver, and check the action screws, bases and ring screws.

Also would not hurt trying different ammo, maybe something lighter or heavier than your current bullet. Sometimes rifles just don't like a particular load.

Wot he said, start with the simple things and tick them off one by one.
Have the shop recheck all the screw tensions. The scope mount and ring screws should imo be blue loktited to prevent vibrating loose.
Shoot With and without supressor three rounds each should do. Shoot off sandbags and have a consistent cheek weld and hold. Shoot slow and deliberately so the barrel doesnt heat up excessively. Record where each shot falls. The groups will be in different places but thats to be expected as the supressors weight changes the barrels harmonic.
If the second shot is some distance from the first but the third is back close to the first bedding is the problem.
Have someone else shoot the rifle if it shoots fine, you need to be serviced not the gun
Try a different weight bullet.
Looking at a change of optics should only be considered as a last resort.

Originally Posted by Marty Henry

Wot he said, start with the simple things and tick them off one by one.
Have the shop recheck all the screw tensions. The scope mount and ring screws should imo be blue loktited to prevent vibrating loose.
Shoot With and without supressor three rounds each should do. Shoot off sandbags and have a consistent cheek weld and hold. Shoot slow and deliberately so the barrel doesnt heat up excessively. Record where each shot falls. The groups will be in different places but thats to be expected as the supressors weight changes the barrels harmonic.
If the second shot is some distance from the first but the third is back close to the first bedding is the problem.
Have someone else shoot the rifle if it shoots fine, you need to be serviced not the gun
Try a different weight bullet.
Looking at a change of optics should only be considered as a last resort.

Why last resort?

Putting an old but known scope on the rifle, bore sighting it and firing a group is simple. The new scope is a Vortex Viper of course [pause for reverent awe] but new and untested.

Hows the crown look?

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Not to be a smart A*** but could you be suffering from a parallax error with your scope ?

One quick way to check is to shoot a group when you have a/the uniform thickness shadow around your exit pupil in the ocular lens.

Did it used to shoot better? Or is this a new rifle? How hot was the barrel after a few shots? That can ruin accuracy. Or heaven forbid, has the barrel been mushroomed? Maybe a little oil left in it and then it's fired? One thing you might feel for is if the friction lets up for a moment when you run the brush through it, that will be the mushroom.

Seeing a lot of this sort of problem lately. "Buy new rifle, poke scope on and it doesn't shoot".

Have helped a few folk out with Remington's, tikka, howa's and even some sako's. In each case I've helped with, removing any and all screws/threads; put them all back together at the right torque settings and the issues are normally solved.

Ensure to include the action screws, surpressor and surpressor bushing.


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I've owned two rifles like this in stock factory configuration. One was a .270. It would shoot to an inconsistent POI or it would double group, no matter what I did. I assume that it was the flexible plastic stock and funky pressure points. Or the barrel was trash. Or both.

The second one I had was a .308, that was amazingly accurate and consistent. Then I chopped the barrel and put it in chassis and it shot like aids.

I'd try it with a different scope. E.g a leupold. Could you get a loaner off a smith, a store or somebody on here?

I've had trouble with much more expensive scopes. It's worth giving it a shot.

The Remmy SPS's aren't benchguns by any means, but provided there's not something seriously astray (loose screws etc), it should be fine.

So with all this great input did you get this sorted ?

Check that suppressor is screwed on tightly. If it isn't tight, the inconsistent vibration will play havoc with accuracy.

Remove bolt and check that everything lines up from the chamber end. I had a 303 with a suppressor that belled and became misaligned with the bore, throwing groups of about 20cm. Next thing that happened was the reticle became dislodged, but then I couldn't hit the side of a barn at 20m. But that was a Tasco.