Thread: Remington accuracy

Some have touched on this already but if you have given the rifle a check over (screws tight etc) then my next step is always me (The shooter) You may be hitting 20cm at 100m, but what is the rifle doing? And how much time was between the 10 shots you fired?

For testing your shooting, there are a number of ways to try.

Get someone else who you know is accurate and have them shoot a group.
Get someone elses accurate rifle that you know shoots accurately and try that yourself in the same seated position you were in.
Get a .22LR and shoot the same sized target at 50 metres and see what you get
Or better still, Set yourself up on a picnic table or portable bench and shoot from a seated position with rests under the rifle at the fore end and butt. Sighting in is best done by taking ALL the shooters variables / wobbles / variations out of the equation. You need the scope to match the bullet impact. Practising should be done without these aids as you would shoot when hunting, but to get that confidence that the rifle will shoot where it is aimed you need it sighted in correctly.

Trying other ammo can help, but I would not think it would make that much difference normally.

I checked everything over and all seems tight and snug. Turns out the rifle is not free floated though. Do I (carefully) use a grinder to remove plastic right down the channel, including the two nubs at the end?
On pillar bedding will JB weld suffice? Can someone link me a good guide to follow?

In taking it apart I also fixed an earlier issue of the mag not feeding the last round. Whoever had this apart last time did not align the magwell. After I seated it properly it now feeds the final round

I also took the supressor apart and can see no sign of bullet strike

you MIGHT have solved your issue.....the mag seating can be criticle on some actions,that stock looks to lock up recoil lug in the slot so is SORT OF bedded...piece of cake to give it a good bedding/stock stabalizing....Nathan Foster sells both products.....or you can go all elcheapho and get out the hot glue gun.
there is a couple of good articles about bedding and how it affects things on Nathans website.
as Ryan S has said a smoothbore should do 20cm group so something drastic was wrong.....hopefully you have found issue with the mag alignment. check out baffles in suppressor and go try say a 3 shot with and without it...chances are (fingers crossed) you will be away laughing from here on in.

Try it again now you've re-aligned the mag box....could be as simple as the action was sitting askew because of that.

check the sling swivel screw at front isnt contacting barrel too..... been there had that LOL.

[QUOTE=CamFlatt;835684]I checked everything over and all seems tight and snug. Turns out the rifle is not free floated though. Do I (carefully) use a grinder to remove plastic right down the channel, including the two nubs at the end?
On pillar bedding will JB weld suffice? Can someone link me a good guide to follow?

Unless you're going to bed the action don't grind out the stock. Remington's are fitted at the factory with forward pressure between the stock and barrel to aid with consistency. If anything you may need to put in a shim of some kind at the front to give it more pressure.
Fitting the magazine box back properly may well have been enough to regain some consistency.

One old rifle (just now?) shooting irregular groups with one brand new scope.

Factory stock have these pressure bedding blocks at the end of the stock. I've never liked the ideal as it means that every time the rifle is shot, you must load the stock up the same. The difference between a off hand shot and prone with a bipod will never be the same. This should not result in a 20cm group though, more like 5cm or less.

The picture is from a Model 7 stock, I've normally removed them but in this case I just replaced the whole stock with a fiber glass one.

The model 700 stocks are longer and more flexible than the model 7 and therefore more likely to contribute to been inconsistent.

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Do you have a friend who you know to be a good shot to shoot a grouping, so you can rule yourself out of the problem?

If not, try this:

Put a fired case back in the chamber and practice dry firing 5x .

Then put another one in and dry fire that 5x and so on. This will help you with learning trigger control.

Then shoot another group.

Originally Posted by Marty Henry

Wot he said, start with the simple things and tick them off one by one.
Have the shop recheck all the screw tensions. The scope mount and ring screws should imo be blue loktited to prevent vibrating loose.
Shoot With and without supressor three rounds each should do. Shoot off sandbags and have a consistent cheek weld and hold. Shoot slow and deliberately so the barrel doesnt heat up excessively. Record where each shot falls. The groups will be in different places but thats to be expected as the supressors weight changes the barrels harmonic.
If the second shot is some distance from the first but the third is back close to the first bedding is the problem.
Have someone else shoot the rifle if it shoots fine, you need to be serviced not the gun
Try a different weight bullet.
Looking at a change of optics should only be considered as a last resort.

Why last resort?

Putting an old but known scope on the rifle, bore sighting it and firing a group is simple. The new scope is a Vortex Viper of course [pause for reverent awe] but new and untested.

A)he may not have another scope to swap, b) it means the donor would need resighting as banging them back on rarely seems to be perfect.
Vortex like all scopes, loopy included do occasionally make a dud but check the other things first. From the photo of the stock one pressure lug looks a little frayed may just be the light though.
To test the scope without removal a box test both by dialling and shooting a few should suffice.

@CamFlatt... Regarding the JB Weld comment, maybe you're confusing the bedding terminology, maybe not, hard to tell. Apologies if you're just talking about using JB Weld to glue pillars in place, but you often hear of guys wanting to use JB Weld for an epoxy bedding job, which is a totally different type of "bedding".

Pillar bedding is the inserting of two metal sleeves in the action screw holes, to give the bottom metal and action solid, incompressible "pillars" on which to apply a set torque to the action screws.

Epoxy bedding is what Nathan Foster writes up on his website.

You can google the differences between the two bedding methods. Very important to understand what they are and what they do. For max effect, you do both, but for your application just pillar bedding should suffice.

Pillar bedding your stock is easy. @Mooseman has just done it to the exact same stock, with good outcomes. I do not glue the pillars in place, I drill out the holes to within 0.25mm of the OD of the pillar and tap/press them in.

As others have mentioned, something else is also likely to be contributing to poor accuracy. Don't worry! Use a systematic approach of elimination, and you'll work it out.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

that sort of rules out a couple of things...scope slipping forwards/backwards will do the verticle string thing.
projectile holes are round??? so its not a case of keyholing stuffed barrel.....
there are a couple of good local gunsmiths who could check it over for you.
20cm is shocking....maybe get someone else to try a group of 5 and see if it miraculusly shrinks group to 2"
one other thing...are you holding forestock or letting it move on rest????

I had an issue with my scope moving in the rings under recoil had some oil in there, removed the scope cleaned scope and rings with brake cleaner and used some grip on the adjacent mating surfaces and it was fine after that.

Thanks for all your advice, it's bloody good to be a part of this group and have access to your collective knowledge! Called my local gunsmith (Laurie Bradley) and chatting to him I'm going to bow out and leave to the expert. He's going to properly bed the rifle in for me, and give the rifle a once over while it's there to make sure it's all looking good. Once that's done I will take the rifle and a mate that can shoot, and just confirm if it's me or the rifle