Thread: Reticle Leveling

How do you guys achieve it? I find it a very frustrating process. Even used a proper kit for it (wheeler) and it was more on the piss than when I did it by using my door frame as a reference.

Screwing, unscrewing, screwing. Set the reticle about 11:30-11:45 before you start tightening the screws.
To have a little cant in the reticle/rifle relation doesn't matter for shooting.

Sit back from the rifle and line vertical bar of reticle up with vertical axis of butt

Assuming you have no cant in your stock

Show me vertical on the hill. Who cares, just shoot it.

I usually hang a plum bob with bright coloured string somewhere, then level rifle with a builders level and line up the vertical line of the reticle with the plum bob.

Thanks for the replies. I had used a combination of Gimp's technique and "bore sighting" the door frame to get it lined up. There is still a small bit of noticeable cant, but I think it is as close as I will get it. These seem like they would be the ticket, but aren't made anymore Reticle Leveler guess it wouldn't be too hard to rig up something similar

Originally Posted by Norway

Screwing, unscrewing, screwing. Set the reticle about 11:30-11:45 before you start tightening the screws.
To have a little cant in the reticle/rifle relation doesn't matter for shooting.

?? 1 degree of cant has an effect at 1000 yards please tell us why it dosen't mater.

Cant remember who showed me but lately I have used the line on a card method... Place the card on the ground with the line center of the but pad and sight back down thru through the scope so the line is parralel to the line on the card.. Used to do it the same as Gimp along with sighting to a level window pain while the gun is square either on a locked bypod or in a gun vice

Note when doing up the rings it will roll the scope if not done evenly

Originally Posted by Terminator

?? 1 degree of cant has an effect at 1000 yards please tell us why it dosen't mater.

Because the cant is in the reticle/rifle relation and not the reticle/earth relation.

Your vestibular sense will take care of the cant in the reticle earth relation. If you are unable to stay within 1 degree a doctor should evaluate your physical condition as it can be a symptome of several illnesses minor and major.

Originally Posted by Terminator

?? 1 degree of cant has an effect at 1000 yards please tell us why it dosen't mater.

Another way of thinking is the Gravity determins the drop so as long as the scope is level to the earth (verticle not level to the slope of the ground) the amount the scope is out to the rifle is only going to be sending the bullet on a slightly out to one side parralell to the scope.

If you use a level mounted on the scope it has to be correct to the scope cross or it will have a far greater affect as you will be second guessing your eye and holding it with cant to get the levl correct.

I reckon there is two subjects going here.
Levelling scope to rifle
Levelling scope while hunting.

Originally Posted by Wirehunt

I reckon there is two subjects going here.
Levelling scope to rifle
Levelling scope while hunting.

No, leveling a scope for general hunting and leveling a scope for LR shooting or target shooting.

I normally level off the reciever or the bottom half of the rings, lock it in a vice and then mount the scope and level off the turret.

For a hunting hack I hold it up and what looks good is good enough.

Originally Posted by Norway

Because the cant is in the reticle/rifle relation and not the reticle/earth relation.

Your vestibular sense will take care of the cant in the reticle earth relation. If you are unable to stay within 1 degree a doctor should evaluate your physical condition as it can be a symptome of several illnesses minor and major.

You would be surprised Norway, I have seen in your shooting videos that you have a great shooting style. Your check weld and pivoting bi pod style must work well for you in this regard.

However the combination of uneven shooting surface and the uneven background sometimes seen through the rifle scope can really be misleading at times. Especially when bi pods legs or pod locks need to be adjusted.

My little spirit level has surprised quite a few when you put it on the elevation turret of their 'set up rifle'

There are enough factors in long range shooting against you without throwing a canted scope into the mix. If you are shooting animals at longer ranges, go out into the hills with a rifle set up to do the job properly!

To advocate anything but is lazy, misleads beginners and is part of what can give us such a bad reputation at times.

Levelling off turrets seems mad to me if you want to get that precise, if your going to go that far then the most accurate way would be level the rifle THEN set the level up away from the rifle in the horizontal or vertical and sight the reticle to that.

As for telling Norway off, I'm laughing my arse off about that one!!

The little level in the hills just serves as a check really if someone is fairly new to longer range shooting and has no anti cant device.

Your method does work well and is what I normally do as well. Turrets can be on the piss on some scopes, but usually pretty good.

Some people have machined sliding levels to level the rifle 1st as you say. Some use those Clip on plastic ones in x2 bits with the lines on them. Someone might know the actual name of the device?

If you do most of your shooting from a fixed style bi pod, non swivel style, no point leveling the rifle 1st if the sling swivel has been put in on the piss and your bi pod is canted...Within reason!

No intentions to offend or "tell anyone off"

Expressing my opinion on this great new 'relaxed' forum.

Glad to see you got a laugh