Thread: Rifle Bedding Opinions

I asked one of NZ's top gunsmiths what he had torqed my Tikka he had bedded in a manners for me and said, didn't know and just done on feel. I stopped worrying about torqing after that as shoots fantastic.
The savage accustocks with the 3 action screws can take a bit of playing around with torqing at range in a certain order to close up groups.

can try practice bedding with car filler compound to see if it improves first and getting correct areas, before going full devcon/epoxy.

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

Devcon 10110 is the best bedding compound on the planet.....

I'd have to disagree with that and so would many others. It's an excellent bedding compound for sure which I've used many times. However, it isn't in the same league as Belzona 1111. 0% shrinkage (unlike the Devcon), hard as the Hobbs of hell, a little on the heavy side and at $340 a small tub the Belzona is prohibitive. Used for such things as emergency repairs to turbine blades.

Marinetex is also a good bedding compound, similar to Devco 10110 although not quite as hard.

but still bloody hard and as Speedy Gonzalez has shown from testing, it too has insignificant shrinkage unlike many other traditional bedding compounds.

Have you tried shooting successive groups, after the rifle cools with different torque settings : 30-40-50-60 in lbs etc?

1 MOA is more than enough for deer? are you shooting more than 3 deer at once?

Sounds like a solution looking for a problem..

I added JB Weld around the front of my CZ457 action (Boyds 'At-One' stock).
JB Weld is quite common going by overseas forums.
https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/j...004026#start=4
Bunnings, etc also sell it.
I only used it to fill in the space around the action front and the woodwork (to eliminate any 'torquing' that might be going on), and hold the action tight with the inlet sides.
Didn't do an actual 'bed' for the action to sit down on as the Boyds stock is quite well made and machined nicely.
I emailed Boyds and asked about pillars, etc. they said "no need, as stock is solid (it's laminated) and pillars no use".
So yeah, I have bedded my action but in a limited way. I only wanted to be sure that the action stayed tight to the woodwork.
For my rifle and use CZ say don't bed the barrel, so that's still free floating.
However, I have since decided to go all out and I've ordered an Oryx chassis.
Only because I can add bits to it easily, and adapt it to my body (buggered neck, arthritic hands, etc, etc).
Which also means that the 'At-One' stock will hit the Buy/Sell/Trade (BST) real soon. Drop in fit for your CZ457.
This one, but without those gay 'rubber' grippy bits.
https://gunrack.nz/product/boyds-at-...ustable-stock/

Beware of JB weld if doing a full bedding job as I found out the hard way it is only workable for about 5 mins from mixing.

Also

Stupid question but until recently I only had magazine fed rifles. Does the internal magazine not act as a pillar between floor plate and action?

not a stupid question at all
because how that box sits is CRITICAL...if it binds or twists accuracy can go to shit....if the gap between the three metal bits,floorplate,box n action isnt right it can stuff up feeding.....it can take a supe reliable feeding rifle and make it a jamomatic pig...... having made a wooden bit to hold my metal bits (fellow forum members have told me its NOT A STOCK) and the job isnt as easy at first looks.

Originally Posted by 300_BLK

Have you tried shooting successive groups, after the rifle cools with different torque settings : 30-40-50-60 in lbs etc?

1 MOA is more than enough for deer? are you shooting more than 3 deer at once?

Sounds like a solution looking for a problem..

That's the plan for tomorrow. Rifles all bedded now will test. Plan was always to bed it just wasn't going to be so soon. Just wasn't sure about exposing thenpillar but by remoh9ng pillars and reinstaling at correct heights the doing the full bed I've got what I intended. I had to remove about 1mm per side for action to fit stock without a gap so it was being pinched almost 2mm. The pillars where also spaced closer than action and bottom metal bolt spacing so action screws where touching the pillars so I also solved that ( may ot may not have been an issue but prefer to solve it)

Originally Posted by SPEARONZ

Beware of JB weld if doing a full bedding job as I found out the hard way it is only workable for about 5 mins from mixing.

Also

Stupid question but until recently I only had magazine fed rifles. Does the internal magazine not act as a pillar between floor plate and action?

No it should have play and not be bound between the 2 it kind of floats with a little play in it.

Had bedding compound here already it was always the plan but was on the non urgent TO DO list until groups opened up. Will now test the action screw torque and accuracy tomorrow hopefully.

Jb hardens in five minute if you buy the quick drying version. The normal drying version sets in under 1 hour and needs a good 12 to 15 hours to harden well.

@Stocky This I found interesting re bedding and action torqueing: "Whatever torque spec you ultimately decide upon, be sure to do this: When assembling and torqueing the rifle into the stock, put the screws in finger-tight only, then stand the rifle on its buttpad and give it a light bounce, then hold down (the same direction of recoil) on the barrel while tightening the screws to the final torque setting. Torque the screw closest to the recoil lug first, then the tang screw. This helps to ensure that the recoil lug is solidly against the abutment. Personally I like a bedded (after reading all the previous posts I'll clarify- the action has full contact in an exactly conforming layer of suitable epoxy) setup with pillars in the screw-holes. When tightening the screws, it should feel as if the movement of the screws stops suddenly- one instant you feel the sliding of the threads, the next the torque device snaps. This indicates you are not able to compress the material the action rest on, which was the point of the whole bedding process. You might want to conduct a test for the "ideal torque" for your rig if you can't sort all the varying answers you've received here: I suggest starting at 40inch-pounds, shoot a group or two, increase by 5 inch-pounds, shoot again, and so on up to the maximum suggested. You will probably find a "tuned" setting that shoots noticeably better than the rest. All part of getting to know your rig".

Got a Bergara too Stocky. Following this with interest. Can you please let us know what you find with the groups and torque settings before I pop the stock off to have a look. Theres quite a bit on the Bergara forums on facebook re cleaning up the pillar contact areas. Not sure if they apply to the Extreme hunter though.

@Stocky Would you have any updates for us on this?