Thread: Ruger 10/22 - Tricks, tips and modifications

Let's see.
My current one started off as a "special" from Gun City.
Hogue stock with a GC 10/22 receiver.
Since then:
16.5in KIDD barrel, with a custom fitted Hardy Rimfire suppressor
Ruger BX trigger with polish job
Auto bolt release
Awesome extended magazine release - my trigger finger moves forward and presses a little release latch that follows contour of trigger guard
Excessively polished bolt
Polymer buffer
Sitting in a Magpul X22 Hunter stock (thanks Digit)

I think the only Ruger factory part left is the bolt - but it's eerily accurate. Spooky almost.

Originally Posted by quentin

I did the CZ upgrade. But the 10/22 was definitely the most fun for plinking and shooting rabbits magpies etc in close.
I found the cost to get the parts for the 10/22 to make it a sub moa gun was out of my reach. Easily doable, but not cheap.

Exactly cz Annie even most jws do it out of the box

fit a polymer buffer, get a trigger job done and maybe a couple of turns off the recoil spring so it cycles subs.
then get rid of the scope base and epoxy+screw a weaver base on.

Originally Posted by gundoc

If you intend to run subsonics through a suppressor then the return spring needs to be clipped by 12mm.

Can you please elaborate on this? What's the reasoning, advantages, etc? I would have thought you'd need to increase the spring pressure rather than reduce it for subs. You've got me perplexed here.

Originally Posted by Gerbs

Awesome extended magazine release - my trigger finger moves forward and presses a little release latch that follows contour of trigger guard...

I've looked at those. Are they really that good, huh? Might have to splash out.

I've presently got one of the old flush release levers and one of the short extension levers. I had the short extension lever... the kids have a habit of resting it on a hard surface (light the door of the truck) and the magazine drops out. Lost a Mag this way. Would go to the old system if I could find one... or this lever idea.

Originally Posted by planenutz

Can you please elaborate on this? What's the reasoning, advantages, etc? I would have thought you'd need to increase the spring pressure rather than reduce it for subs. You've got me perplexed here.

The weight of the bolt and the strength of the return spring combined is too much for the low recoiling subs to push the bolt back far enough to reliably eject the fired case, and feed a new round. The 12mm off the spring (it involves disassembling the return spring assembly, cutting and reshaping the end, assembly and re-riveting) is just the right amount to allow reliable cycling with subs, and in conjunction with a buffer pin, is safe to use with supersonic loads. Increasing the spring pressure would make it even harder for the bolt open.

PS. ALL extended mag release catches make it easier to lose your mags! Press the standard button up with your left (or right if you are sinister) third finger and the mag will drop into your hand while your other hand retains control of the rifle.

Originally Posted by planenutz

I've looked at those. Are they really that good, huh? Might have to splash out.

PWS Lever
This is what I have - Its fantastic.
I did trim and file down the left side tho - I only use my right hand to release the mag, and as gundoc said, they can catch and drop a mag while its on your back.

As for magazines, I found the factory 10 round rotary mag was the most solid performer. I had Ruger bx15 and promag 15 round mags as well, and they were kinda average and large. The promag was a pita to load, and the Ruger BX15 jammed until I disassembled it and polished the alloy ramp. (after that it was good and reliable).

Best thing I ever did was get the Target model. No pissing about, Good trigger, tight groups, full size stock.
Oh yeah and its for sale. No issues just down sizing.

Originally Posted by gundoc

After 50 years of tuning 10/22's (I did my first one in 1966) I can tell you that they are accurate and reliable rifles, head and shoulders above any other semi-auto on the market. There have been more unneccesary gizmos offered on the aftermarket for them than any other rifle, with the exception of the AR15. These following things are ALL that is needed to bring out the full potential of the 10/22; a good 2.5 lb trigger job, permanently fit the barrel to the receiver, replace the factory 'scope base with a Weaver (or similar), fit a buffer pin, drill a cleaning rod hole in the back of the receiver, modify the bolt release to trip when the bolt is retracted slightly, learn how to strip, clean and reassemble your magazine correctly (about once every 2-3,000 rounds). If you intend to run subsonics through a suppressor then the return spring needs to be clipped by 12mm. Most of these jobs need to be done by a professional who is TOTALLY familiar with the work (especially the trigger job and the return spring job). These few (and inexpensive jobs, less than $100) will give you an accurate (12-15mm groups at 50 metres) and totally reliable rifle that will last a lifetime. There is no need for all the expensive and superfluous aftermarket junk that seems to be all the rage!

How do you permanently fix the barrel to the receiver

Some aftermarket 10/22 pattern receivers are threaded, and accept a threaded barrel. Other than that, the option is fully bed, including the barrel channel to ensure the barrel does not droop on the alloy action.

Originally Posted by johnd

Best thing I ever did was get the Target model. No pissing about, Good trigger, tight groups, full size stock.
Oh yeah and its for sale. No issues just down sizing.

How much you looking for for it? Pm me pics and price if you like

Originally Posted by Martin358

How do you permanently fix the barrel to the receiver

I put the barrel in the lathe and run a light knurl on the barrel shank to increase the diameter to a firm push fit, smear retaining grade Loctite on the shank and press in place (taking care to get correct alignment) then refit the barrel clamp with some normal grade Loctite on the screws. The barrel can be removed with heat to break down the Loctite, but no real reason exists to ever take the barrel out again unless it has been damaged. The standard Ruger barrels are perfectly accurate but minute movement between the barrel and the receiver (that has the scope attached) are the cause of their mediocre accuracy as they come from the factory. The late model 10/22's have a tighter barrel fit than the early ones. The standard triggers are also perfectly good subject to being given a good trigger job (not a job for amateurs).

Originally Posted by gundoc

The standard triggers are also perfectly good subject to being given a good trigger job (not a job for amateurs).

Shame you're retired then ain't it

Started playing around with my 10/22 recently. Not going to get one but didn't realise that these were available https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CNChFq5g7To

Charging handle that is for lefties, mounts into the scope rail with a catch to pull back on the factory handle