Thread: Ruger Ranch 300BLK

I make my own. Pretty cheap with once fired TM brass, 125gr TNT, and a dribble of lil'gun.

Can see a lot of positives in one of these, Sika, fallow, goats, for young kids,,,,,

We purchased belmonts entire available stock of their new 300blk ammo. Price is $75 for 50 rounds. Our testing has this as an awesome hunting supersonic round. Will list it in the next day or so.

Originally Posted by Digit

We purchased belmonts entire available stock of their new 300blk ammo. Price is $75 for 50 rounds. Our testing has this as an awesome hunting supersonic round. Will list it in the next day or so.

@Digit what projectile, Local gun Shop has some Fiocchi 50 packs inbound for $65, but all FMJ, not cheap enough to let off just for the brass

Woodleigh 125 grain PP. Ideal hunting round. Doug tested them at around MOA for 3 shots, and ideal expansion for hunting.

I buy mine 300 blackout brass now from these guys. 300 Blackout Brass at GSI International

They will ship to NZ, email them for a shipping quote (Shipping is nearly as much as the cases $60 USD).
I have bought 3000 from them at less than $200 NZD per 1000. Dollar has dropped but you should be able to land them here for about $235 NZD per 1000 still.

I use to make my own brass but at around $235 per 1000 its not worth the time or effort.
Makes for cheap shooting.

Email address for GSI is sales@gsiinternational.com
Ask them to email through an Order Form and ask them for a shipping quote to your address for the quantity you need.
To easy.

Brass is normally 70% Lake City and 30% WCC (Western Cartridge Company), is reasonably clean and reasonably tidy.
I always fill length resize before I use it.
Normally biff 5 per 1000 due to dents etc.

First shot using CMJ 155gn projectiles costs me under $0.60 cents a shot.
2nd shot onwards costs me under $0.40 cents a shot.

Just got it back from the gunsmith

Originally Posted by specweapon

Just got it back from the gunsmith


Attachment 40717

Looks nice and compact, what length barrel is it now?

10" near flush with the front of the forestock

Bit of a shit day yesterday, went up to the range to fire the first shots from the Ruger, all was good and with a 75yd zero was hitting steel at 100-200 and 300m no sweat, then the bolt got harder harder to pull back, i had just stuffed 6 rounds into the magazine so thought it might have been that, next shot had to wrench the bolt to get it back, so had a look at the ejected brass and every one has a clear gouge out at exactly 12 o clock position in the chamber, looking up the magwell I can clearly see a large burr or something in the chamber.
I know the gunsmith never removed the barrel when it was shortened because he told me he just clamped the action in his lathe

So this must be a factory flaw? I'm heading down the the local gun shop soon to see what they think

L

Originally Posted by specweapon

Bit of a shit day yesterday, went up to the range to fire the first shots from the Ruger, all was good and with a 75yd zero was hitting steel at 100-200 and 300m no sweat, then the bolt got harder harder to pull back, i had just stuffed 6 rounds into the magazine so thought it might have been that, next shot had to wrench the bolt to get it back, so had a look at the ejected brass and every one has a clear gouge out at exactly 12 o clock position in the chamber, looking up the magwell I can clearly see a large burr or something in the chamber.
I know the gunsmith never removed the barrel when it was shortened because he told me he just clamped the action in his lathe

So this must be a factory flaw? I'm heading down the the local gun shop soon to see what they think

Attachment 40961

That looks for all the world like the start of case head seperation
And explains why your bolt was hard to open

Where did you get your brass from?

Is the headspace correct?

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

L

That looks for all the world like the start of case head seperation
And explains why your bolt was hard to open

Ehhh wouldn't be the best place for them to let go!

Good point 7mmsaum, and based on the other symptoms of sticking bolt after fired etc... Always good to check headspacing on a new rifle and compare to ammunition to be fired specs.

The only reason I went down the road of the bur being some swath was what was written above in @specweapon s earlier observation.

Originally Posted by specweapon

looking up the magwell I can clearly see a large burr or something in the chamber.
I know the gunsmith never removed the barrel when it was shortened because he told me he just clamped the action in his lathe.

Hence I was going down the road of either swath or foreign matter from the barrel shortening and re-threading he did in the chamber catching on the exterior of shell and line being scored into the case as the bolt head turns to be locked. But definitely specweapon check your headspacing as well in case too!!

Good point 7mmsaum, and based on the other symptoms of sticking bolt after fired etc... Always good to check headspacing on a new rifle and compare to ammunition to be fired specs.

The only reason I went down the road of the bur being some swath was what was written above in @specweapon s earlier observation.

Originally Posted by specweapon

looking up the magwell I can clearly see a large burr or something in the chamber.
I know the gunsmith never removed the barrel when it was shortened because he told me he just clamped the action in his lathe.

Hence I was going down the road of either (swarf) or foreign matter from the barrel shortening and re-threading he did in the chamber catching on the exterior of shell and line being scored into the case as the bolt head turns to be locked. But definitely specweapon check your headspacing as well in case too!!